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Tucker 1642 Doors Seal Weather Stripping

Archmage

New member
Any ideas for what the original door seal weather stripping is on these machines? I have been looking on line but to no avail.

I am in need of new handles for the sliding glass inside the cab, and would like to stick to original if possible ?

Also I am looking for the original type of insulation and soft cover for the interior of the walls. Any Ideas welcome, Thanks :smile:
 

PJL

Well-known member
That's a great find. My 1200 cab insulation is beginning to fall apart. I need something self adhesive and closed cell so that is doesn't hold moisture. Is that foam material closed cell? Or is it like a sponge that holds water. Is it fire resistant?
 

Tye one on

Member
I can't answer that. I do know that Tucker uses it and we have had great luck with it in our mining equipment. It is not self adhesive but simple to put in with a can of 3M adhesive. Spray a coat on the foam and the place your installing it, let it dry a minute or two and install. Very clean look once it's in.
 

PJL

Well-known member
Not absorbing water is the most important. Having an aviation background is where the fire resistance question came from. Thanks for the info.
 

Tye one on

Member
5119f84275308b53905804b9572dde3d.jpg


Here it is installed. Not scientific test but I can't get a piece of the scrap to soak up water.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

PJL

Well-known member
Look at this nice sample they sent me.

The floor mat material seems waterproof. The thicker stuff is not. I'll put a call into them and ask.
 

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PJL

Well-known member
I expected a little scrap piece in an envelope, not a box full stuff. I like the little foam bear.
 

Track Addict

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Any luck with the glass handles. I have the same setup and those missing as well. I assume they locked into this tab?

Maybe Davenet may know ?
 

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DAVENET

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Hehr used to make a similar item for transit buses, but like yours, they 1)snapped off of the glass with constant use or 2)snapped off in extreme cold. Then they started drilling holes in the tempered for a screw-thru design w/ nylon bushings to protect the glass. Worked fine until the nylon wore out from constant opening & closing and then the screw made contact w/ the glass and shattered it while closing. Now most everything has an aluminum trim ring to hook the latch to. And the ones that don't still use the thru screw method, but with tougher bushings.

This may work just as good as your OEM handle. If it is too wide just grind until it fits. And the price is right for testing.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/97-04-Ford-...ack-Window-Glass-Latch-Lock-OEM-/201445756323
 

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Track Addict

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Here is what I went with 5$ called window finger pull on eBay. They had black white and clear. Clear blends nicely. Almost can't see from outside with window closed.

Looking at the glass each side has three dimples where I mounted mine so thinking the stock pulls locked on some how full length of glass. The back could have just been a lock or other application.

Cheap functional and blends in nicely. Easy to open and close.
 

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zspryte

Member
Site Supporter
The dB headliner/wall stuff is noise insulation. It is nice stuff but ... Sound insulation is usually open cell foam as it kills sound much better than closed cell foam. Also, the polymer used to make the dB stuff (polyester) is known to absorb water. Maybe dB can tell you how quickly it will absorb water and how much it will hold. Clearly, it works in some applications.

Tucker told me it uses 1" thick, closed cell "sponge" foam with a sticky back that it gets from Barrier Corp. in Tigard Oregon. Tucker said it covers the foam with a marine-grade carpet-like material. Barrier is a wholesaler and doesn't sell small lots. The sales person I spoke with didn't know what material it is made from.

I've installed 1" thick closed-cell polyethylene foam that I covered with a marine grade headliner upholstery. Polyethylene closed-cell foam does not absorb water but is hard to bond to. I bought the foam with a pre-applied adhesive film - big mistake. Halfway through the first season the foam separated from the film and dropped off. Pain in the rear to remove the adhesive film from interior. 3M high-strength 90 is a spray-on adhesive compatible with polyethylene and works great. You have to spray both surfaces to get a good bond. We get lots of high humidity days in California winters and the foam is fine after three years with no mold or absorption.
 

PJL

Well-known member
That was my concern with the open cell foam. Today we had the 1200 out and it was so damp the inside was like a cold damp sauna.
 

KickerM

Active member
Site Supporter
GOLD Site Supporter
Just a Heads up if anyone is looking for Door or Window Trim this is a great site with hundreds of options: Steele Rubber Products. They specialize in seals and parts. www.steelerubber.com
 
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