• Please be sure to read the rules and adhere to them. Some banned members have complained that they are not spammers. But they spammed us. Some even tried to redirect our members to other forums. Duh. Be smart. Read the rules and adhere to them and we will all get along just fine. Cheers. :beer: Link to the rules: https://www.forumsforums.com/threads/forum-rules-info.2974/

Converting to a 5 man cab!

Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
Just to clarify things...

I only solder the big boys that either attach to the battery proper (Heavy cables) and the big ground cables at the battery and engine block/frame

All other stuff like terminal ends and such I use the heavy duty crimp type tool

To solder all the tiny stuff is not in the playbook.

The weather pack connectors are a nice touch for stuff that is/can be exposed to the elements.

Sorry for beating on the hornets nest :bolt:
 

1boringguy

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
Just adding fuel for the fire ...... I mean thought .....

It's easy to over crimp small wires, leaving only a few stands holding, which then takes very little to break. Exercise resistant.

This is how we splice our submersible dewatering pump electrical cable. The screws are providing the crimp but otherwise it's basically what sno-drifter does. In the higher voltage world, (higher than auto anyway) things get tested pretty well I think (government mandated, keeps people from dieing). At higher voltage thermal expansion and contraction are, I suppose, are a bigger concern too.
 

Attachments

  • 20200227_061704.jpg
    20200227_061704.jpg
    47.4 KB · Views: 336
  • 20200227_061626.jpg
    20200227_061626.jpg
    16.5 KB · Views: 339
  • 20200227_061607.jpg
    20200227_061607.jpg
    25.6 KB · Views: 334
  • 20200227_061552.jpg
    20200227_061552.jpg
    20.1 KB · Views: 332

Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
The high voltage stuff....440, 600 and then up into the big voltages, the crimp operations are pretty much the gold standard.

The heavy cables that carry 12/24 volts ...especially at or near the battery are the problem children that will leave you stranded.

GM initiated the side terminal battery in the 1971 vintage

The idea was to stop the terminal corrosion that is/was common with the standard lead acid battery......

The sealed battery was the best thing since sliced bread.... well, almost.....

The GLASS MAT sealed battery like the OPTIMA was a leap forward as well.

Far less corrosion issues..

Sadly so may rigs end up with a cheapy replacement battery from the supply houses that returns all the misery and headache of the old leaky lead acid battery's we had for decades..

The big ball of white oxidation all over the terminals, and the all too often...CLICK BUZZ AND NOTHING when the key is turned to start.....

And not to mention the fact that along with the cables becoming useless....the front corner (Common in cars/trucks) rots off and falls on the ground....
 

Pontoon Princess

Cattitute
GOLD Site Supporter
but but but, three tracks, how did get off track, 2 vs 4 track,

to crimp or not to crimp, that is the question,

Squirrel?

interesting, a forum member of mystery, 'RitchR' gave a 'thank you' to this post, always surprised by how many member there are that so rarely post if at all, this is the first time I have seen this member in the snow cat section, well, I look him up and found he joined back in '05 and think he has given out something like, 15 thanks, long story short, great to see him join in, since their last activity was in '15 and never has posted to a single thread, interesting.....

ah SR, there was manufacture that did build a reverse tricycle snow cat, think they were on the east coast in the 60's maybe the 70's

and tuckers are a huge pile of work, not for the weak of mind, wallet, and a very large shop


let the battle continue, 2 vs 4 track.....
 
Last edited:

Snowtrac Nome

member formerly known as dds
GOLD Site Supporter
in the aircraft industry they crimp only soldering isn't permissible when they crimp the outer jacket is also crimped to for strain relief. the rv industry uses cheap crimp connectors with no strain relief and older electrical issues can be a night mare. I like using crimp and seal connectors it seems to be the most reliable connection I can get
 

Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
I agree with most....except I will always solder the big battery terminals.

Aircraft and several other pieces of machinery do not present the same issues that automotive does...and Snowcats are very similar to pickups and such.

I guess it's gonna have to remain a personal choice....Two track vs four...Dodge Ford Chevy/GMC thing....

No worries....I'm cool

I agree about the Tucker thing..been part of a crew that rebuilt an old pontoon Tucker back in my snowmobile club days.

The owner had all the ingredients...Huge shop, fat wallet and plenty of help.

They even had an overhead crane in the one bay a 2 ton trolly on the cross travel... we picked up the frame on the beast and turned it over to be able to fix all the cracked frame parts.

Sweet set up.

They owned a snowmobile and boat dealership and Kart shop.....in Portland....

Many toys to play with
 

sno-drifter

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Hi KickerM,

Here is my final suggestion: No soldering, no crimping. Park at the top of the hill and let gravity do your starting. No corrosion, no wires, no battery. Perfect setup. I'm dun.
 

Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
Sorry I started such a flap.....

Just wanted to pass on some, well at least what I thought was good info gleaned from years of experience...usually in nasty cold wet weather with failing daylight and frozen fingers and it always resulted in a serious attitude issue...:idea:
 

JimVT

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Hi KickerM,

Here is my final suggestion: No soldering, no crimping. Park at the top of the hill and let gravity do your starting. No corrosion, no wires, no battery. Perfect setup. I'm dun.

you could go this way.
starter%20a.jpg
 

KickerM

Active member
Site Supporter
GOLD Site Supporter
I’ve seen an air starter before, but what form is that? Do tell...
 

Pontoon Princess

Cattitute
GOLD Site Supporter
Sorry I started such a flap.....

Just wanted to pass on some, well at least what I thought was good info gleaned from years of experience...usually in nasty cold wet weather with failing daylight and frozen fingers and it always resulted in a serious attitude issue...:idea:

no need to be sorry,

what came from this discussion of 2 track vs 4 track and throw in a 3 track machine is lots of good info and Jim Vermont offered up a air starter (3 track machine), lots of good info, well done

I myself prefer to sit on top on the hill and watch everyone attempt the climb...
 
Last edited:

Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
Air starters are scary...

I had an old Pete with a Detroit in it with an air starter.

Damned thing would leak off over the weekend and then I would have to hook up house air from the shop on Monday morning..

Ya can't just jump it off the pickup and giddyupgo...

Pump up the air with a tire pump ???? Arrrrrrgh
 

PJL

Well-known member
BF-109 airplanes used an inertial flywheel starter. Just needed a guy to crank it up for you.
 

redsqwrl

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Solder or crimp.... I have been busy sqwrling nutz away for summer and really missed the fun. Ironically we had a simple clowder this weekend. I selected a nutted up sno trac to facilitate the festivities.... Ironically the vice grip did an admirable job keeping the positive cable to the battery. I find the spring in the handle of the vice grip handy as it is a dynamite attribute to hold the AUX wire that powers the light pod.

Now to be fair to the small wires, I do have to touch a couple of them together to fire the starter picking the right two is why I am a licensed electrician and regardless of your degree or status with a PE, You will get bored before you figure out which to touch to what......

Given: two tracks is the only sno snow or sn-oh- cat, further more four tracks is just showing off....

all here shall pause for a moment and recognize where it all started!
Only one tracked vehicle to care about.

Killen Straits.

it all started in a shop not far from dysfunction Junction.

Appleton WI.

Oh and long as I am being cheeky.

The rig had 3 tracks

:th_lmao:
 

Attachments

  • Killen-Strait_1915_Tracked_Vehicle_Test___A_British_army_off…___Flickr.png
    Killen-Strait_1915_Tracked_Vehicle_Test___A_British_army_off…___Flickr.png
    166.3 KB · Views: 274

KickerM

Active member
Site Supporter
GOLD Site Supporter
Sorry for the slowdown in progress on my cat but It’s calving season on the ranch and I need to focus on the one thing that’s supposed to make me money to fund my snowcat addiction; I mean hobby...
I thank everyone for the spirited opinions on “battery” cables and I went with Marine Grade Annealed Fine Strand cables crimped fittings with the Silicone Heat Shrink Tubing to make it water tight and hopefully less susceptible to corrosion.....
26cba411d32ed6c6912d6acaf48ed27d.jpg
 

BearGap

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
I found this picture of Jim VT. I think this is what he had in mind :eatdrink:
 

Attachments

  • 30DCC2C8-F331-49DC-BF81-3203CDDA3A2F.jpeg
    30DCC2C8-F331-49DC-BF81-3203CDDA3A2F.jpeg
    52 KB · Views: 248

Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
Bummer about the engine.....

One good thing...at least you will know what you have when it's done.

Better to find the issues out now than out on the trail somewhere.....


That cat have an auto tranny or a stick ????

If it's an auto...be a great time to service the gear box.....
 

KickerM

Active member
Site Supporter
GOLD Site Supporter
Engine is all good and ready to drop in, just need to get tub and cradle prepped and painted...The tranny is auto, FMX to be exact, I had my tranny guy go thru it and inspect it, change filters and make sure it’s ready to go!
 

Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
Sweet....

You will not regret spending the coin on the power pack..:thumbup:

One thing I have noticed right off is that working on these cats is generally not easy when it comes to the engine/trans

Seems that many cats are built like electronics.....Layered in with one thing on top of another and this can certainly make doing what would normally be simple repairs a nightmare...


Having all the goodies tip top will give you a long service life with lotsa fun trouble free hours of running

Been ages since I last had my hands in an FMX mid 70's I think.... Good little gear box...
 

KickerM

Active member
Site Supporter
GOLD Site Supporter
Got the Cradle sandblasted, Now it’s ready to be primed and painted today! It’s amazing that this 30# formed steel holds the entire powerpack....
18b35b1eec2267907bd6c6b4c2afb95f.jpg

be3c7363869305a33a317306ca5519c3.jpg
 

Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
Looking good.

The weight is hanging nearly directly straight down on the side bars....you could lift the entire machine with those two side pieces.

Does the cradle sit on the bottom of the tub ????

I assume the cradle bolts into the tub at several points ????

Plenty strong hold the little 6 cyl and tranny....
 

KickerM

Active member
Site Supporter
GOLD Site Supporter
The cradle is suspended above the bottom of the tub, and you are correct in that it sits along the lip of the tub edge, but it is only held in by 4 bolts into 16ga sheet steel, mine was rusted so the entire deck of the tub was torched off and I welded 3”x3”x3/16” angle iron down the top edge from fore to aft, so now the cradle is well positioned to hold anything....original plan was for a 6BT!
92d4156e214fd153af06c4842655427d.jpg
 

KickerM

Active member
Site Supporter
GOLD Site Supporter
Getting some good time to work on cat in between checking the cows. Welded all the cracks in the tub, made up skid plates (I even welded directions on the skid plate, so when your upside down in the snow you know which way is forward!) then drilled holes and fitted cage nuts in the tub for said skid plates, then Wire-wheeled the tub, stripped, primed and painted! Now to set the cradle and drill the holes thru the angle iron
b76a9d6d6b93a571a5b6224f8d81331c.jpg


28dca2490ad87af3215a5cd365f99673.jpg


3ad1352f200ce0a5b757456a3641848d.jpg


2e7d3bc627b85183c0050c28d016120f.jpg

b60a83f6affc3981a9003a16dac195f8.jpg

74aee9e9af156b517648308f19953921.jpg


cd377402aa6da915f1055f0e1e14b8d2.jpg
 

KickerM

Active member
Site Supporter
GOLD Site Supporter
After 2 years and 3 months the power pack is back where it belongs! Now to start the process of fine tuning all my measurements and make sure all my paper ideas fit into the actual machine!

81b6acff0306ab23d6b45038bea923d4.jpg

3b7a86978cf723b1d06fb2dbb6299b8b.jpg


Measuring up the Transmission cooler lines to replace with single piece hydraulic hose lines, the old ones transitioned between steel and rubber with adapters and pipe clamps I can’t count how many times.... KISS!!!!
c1715eb7e6b380aa4c0a1f6d0f8e55ce.jpg
 

Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
Looks great.

Having a bullet proof oil cooler set up is nice.

All the clamps and splices is definitely not a good idea.

Just don't need a leak somewhere....
 

KickerM

Active member
Site Supporter
GOLD Site Supporter
Well it’s been a long time coming, but finally got enough parts and time to get a bunch of work done on the snowcat

Radiator hoses were a challenge but after searching the internet, books and asking the pros on here I was able to get close. Hopefully this helps others out!

Lower hose is Gates 20608 with Gates reducer 26391 (perfect fit)
Water pump measurement is 1.88” with the lower radiator being 1.5”

Upper hose is Gates 22434 cutting most of the hose off (close not perfect)
Top radiator is 2” and the Thermostat housing is 1.75”



270aaa783467071be01c5017cad75080.jpg

63b7d0c62321f8afd4fe68ebc212457f.jpg
 
Top