Yeah, checked out fine. Weld was a double round overall, thus I dont think anything would leak through, worst case - we can always redo...
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DMC 1450 s/n D1C-1501 - Custom Build - by Nikson
- Thread starter Nikson
- Start date
Yeah, checked out fine. Weld was a double round overall, thus I dont think anything would leak through, worst case - we can always redo...
I just cant use something that doesnt look good and I'm not intimately familiar with, considering places these machines take us...
Plus its just nice to know that its been done right and it gorgeous on the pictures...
your colorado photos are just beautiful, very well done, thanks for sharing the photos, and a big, GOOD JOB on the snow cat ! see that you have a vintage photo and talked about sharing them at the cats meow jamboree, good for you and look forward to seeing at timberline thanks again
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I have thought of that on both the snow trac and Thiokol if I were to do that I would still use a torsion axle at the pivot point for some suspension or your higher speed ride will suck I have been on some larger equipment with just walking beams with no suspension the ride quality left some thing to be desired. also you will need a limiting devise so you don't flip your trucks upside down
The snowtrac are walking beam already mounted to leafs or springs in the front
Bombardier Muskegs use walking beams with no suspension ride is compermised
But will take more weight
I think I would look at rubber torsion if you are going to change at all
Are you talking about flipping the actual wheel combo?
I dont see how that would be possible considering that track itself would limit the wheels from doing that, I'm thinking that would be doable to got onto an Imp suspension along w/the upgrade to trailer size tires.
My only concern is that a lot of guys talked about the fact that front idler has to be a full rubber unit (not an air filled type) being that it would be taking most of the stress of the track tension.
What do you think on that?
lets update - gone a bit further pass the last update...
To finish up the engine work - ordered a new carb kit, fully disassembled & put together with all new gaskets/seals/little pieces that came in the kit...
Carb got a good cleaning, overall didnt find it to be as bad/dirty as the one was on the previous Wisconsin engine of the 1402
adding a little personal touch
so overall pretty happy with how the engine turned out... considering all the elbow grease that went into it..
New on the list:
water pump
fuel pump
plugs / wires
belts
thermostat
gaskets/seals
filters
and few more missed probably...
Only thing I didnt touch/rebuild were pistons & rings... Those were check, and checked out just fine...
To finish up the engine work - ordered a new carb kit, fully disassembled & put together with all new gaskets/seals/little pieces that came in the kit...
Carb got a good cleaning, overall didnt find it to be as bad/dirty as the one was on the previous Wisconsin engine of the 1402
adding a little personal touch
so overall pretty happy with how the engine turned out... considering all the elbow grease that went into it..
New on the list:
water pump
fuel pump
plugs / wires
belts
thermostat
gaskets/seals
filters
and few more missed probably...
Only thing I didnt touch/rebuild were pistons & rings... Those were check, and checked out just fine...
next onto wheels & tires...
all boggies got completely rebuilt, new tires/tubes (not foam filled), new hub bearings & seals, all new bolts/nuts throughout, including u-bolts on suspension.
front idler tensioners - being that the grease pistons were rusted to he**... had a local machine shop work out couple of replacement pieces (almost $300 cost for the pair) and weld on the new ones...
now they actually slip/slide as they should and hold the pressure. There should be serviced at least once a year... my old ones seemed to be untouched for LONG TIME...
all beautiful and new looking... sometimes I think resto projects like that should go straight to a museum... LOL
rear end got a little bit of work done to it as well...
all cleaned out, seals replaced, as well as new slaves...
all boggies got completely rebuilt, new tires/tubes (not foam filled), new hub bearings & seals, all new bolts/nuts throughout, including u-bolts on suspension.
front idler tensioners - being that the grease pistons were rusted to he**... had a local machine shop work out couple of replacement pieces (almost $300 cost for the pair) and weld on the new ones...
now they actually slip/slide as they should and hold the pressure. There should be serviced at least once a year... my old ones seemed to be untouched for LONG TIME...
all beautiful and new looking... sometimes I think resto projects like that should go straight to a museum... LOL
rear end got a little bit of work done to it as well...
all cleaned out, seals replaced, as well as new slaves...
once most of the parts were gathered together... frame & tub got HERCULINED (Herculiner - $99/gallon can at AutoZone).
This Herculiner is awesome, its there for good and forever... put directly onto the steel after sandblasting (was told thats the best way)
was able to locate new shifter & new boot made by Quadco, although I regret going with the original type of the boot, should have gone with another type - the cut in the middle - slot style - since this one is really tight, and pinched the rubber, explains why it ripps on these machines
cut out the heater core part, and the front part of the doghouse... rest of the front cab is still in tact
something like that...
heater core was pretty plugged up, thus with the noisy heater motor, the core got replaced... all painted and ready to go... blows hard...
front lower sides got trimmed... and rusted flooring redone...
decided to up the floor 1 inch, have aluminum diamond plate put from the inside, and it be removable possibly, for easier access to track in case of necessary repairs.
side walls were cut down, to lower the entry sides., doors will be flush with the floor itself, thus you could clean out the floor pans as needed, by just sweeping it outside without a need for scoop...
towards the back, cut the upper part of the lower sides, reinforced with 3/4 tube, and aligned with overall original lines, to keep things aligned...
I guess going after this kinda look, with some minor changes as usual...
Feel free to comment and ask questions...
This Herculiner is awesome, its there for good and forever...
put directly onto the steel after sandblasting (was told thats the best way)
was able to locate new shifter & new boot made by Quadco, although I regret going with the original type of the boot, should have gone with another type - the cut in the middle - slot style - since this one is really tight, and pinched the rubber, explains why it ripps on these machines
cut out the heater core part, and the front part of the doghouse... rest of the front cab is still in tact
something like that...
heater core was pretty plugged up, thus with the noisy heater motor, the core got replaced... all painted and ready to go... blows hard...
front lower sides got trimmed... and rusted flooring redone...
decided to up the floor 1 inch, have aluminum diamond plate put from the inside, and it be removable possibly, for easier access to track in case of necessary repairs.
side walls were cut down, to lower the entry sides., doors will be flush with the floor itself, thus you could clean out the floor pans as needed, by just sweeping it outside without a need for scoop...
towards the back, cut the upper part of the lower sides, reinforced with 3/4 tube, and aligned with overall original lines, to keep things aligned...
I guess going after this kinda look, with some minor changes as usual...
Feel free to comment and ask questions...
Got to say, you have really done very well with your project, i am impressed with you efforts, if you would like to visit tuckerville, i am just 30 minutes up the road from you, just let me know if you would to come. good job!
once most of the parts were gathered together... frame & tub got HERCULINED (Herculiner - $99/gallon can at AutoZone).
This Herculiner is OK, we use it for touch up but really like the two part liner made by UPOL called RAPTOR it's a two part liner and seems tough as nails
You can buy black or tintable we use both. And have for several years best place to buy it is Ebay a gallon with the gun around 109.00 or so free shipping
Work great on trucks also tinted keeps all the rock chips off the panels (or covers
The ones that are there )
Not sure what I'm going after, but wanted to try to do this type w/my own hands so to speak...
Thanks
Work great on trucks also tinted keeps all the rock chips off the panels (or covers
The ones that are there )
I've heard of the other ones, this one seemed to be the simplest one for application - just roll it on/brush as needed, so far pretty happy with how it has held up...
The other one you talking about - have a buddy who did his Ford Ranger's exterior that way - pretty bulletproof as well.
Happy New Years everyone one, hope the new year brings everyone enough pow pow fresh snow to get your cats out and play, you have plenty of gas to get back to your home & plenty of fun memories on that flashmemory of your camera so you can share the adventures with us...
Remember... pictures... pictures... pictures... Just make them and put them up, we'll do the rest (deciding if they are good or bad) LO
Its a russian thing, superstition of how you "meet" the New Year, is how you will most likely spend it... so Happy New Years to everyone once again...
I figured I had to clear some space on my thread - update and have more room for the upcoming pictures of the process... as always, questions and suggestions are welcome...
First I wanted to share the engine start...
hopefully the link works, if not - look me up on Instagram's site, user BUDNIXON, and you should see it at the start of the timeline not too far from beginning...
http://instagram.com/p/w3DOzenLqp/
so at this point... I'm somewhere here... front cab has been complete, along with front doors.
still deciding if to go along with my buddies suggestion and to place all the dash items on top of the engine cover, but I like my idea better, to keep the dash in front of the driver, but possibly place all the buttons-shmattons in the middle for ease of access...
As planned thou, 12 in lean (bottom vs top of the front of the cab/windshield's side) - there is plenty of space for the radiator access.
Overall pretty happy - aluminum is really light, my estimates are around 500lbs for total front/rear cabs all complete, thus 1450 will come out to be pretty light, considering that this is 1/8 wall 1inch tubing.
Cheers and Happy New Years once again!!!
Remember... pictures... pictures... pictures... Just make them and put them up, we'll do the rest (deciding if they are good or bad) LO
Its a russian thing, superstition of how you "meet" the New Year, is how you will most likely spend it... so Happy New Years to everyone once again...
I figured I had to clear some space on my thread - update and have more room for the upcoming pictures of the process... as always, questions and suggestions are welcome...
First I wanted to share the engine start...
hopefully the link works, if not - look me up on Instagram's site, user BUDNIXON, and you should see it at the start of the timeline not too far from beginning...
http://instagram.com/p/w3DOzenLqp/
so at this point... I'm somewhere here... front cab has been complete, along with front doors.
still deciding if to go along with my buddies suggestion and to place all the dash items on top of the engine cover, but I like my idea better, to keep the dash in front of the driver, but possibly place all the buttons-shmattons in the middle for ease of access...
As planned thou, 12 in lean (bottom vs top of the front of the cab/windshield's side) - there is plenty of space for the radiator access.
Overall pretty happy - aluminum is really light, my estimates are around 500lbs for total front/rear cabs all complete, thus 1450 will come out to be pretty light, considering that this is 1/8 wall 1inch tubing.
Cheers and Happy New Years once again!!!
I believe it was 6061, and its just a miller MIG with a spoolmate100 gun. Took a bit getting used to it, and setting it up right, since Aluminum doesnt like anything other than being welded vertically...
Snowcat Pat
Active member
I don't want to appear to be a KIA, and you probably already know this.
MIG welding AL produces really unhealthy fumes, some of guys I've worked with used full respirators when spool gunning AL.
Personally I'll stick to TIG (heliarc). Only skin cancer from that. UV rays.
Just wanted to mention it politely.
Happy New Year
-Pat
MIG welding AL produces really unhealthy fumes, some of guys I've worked with used full respirators when spool gunning AL.
Personally I'll stick to TIG (heliarc). Only skin cancer from that. UV rays.
Just wanted to mention it politely.
Happy New Year
-Pat
As I get older I do pay a little bit more attention to the things that are bad for me also. Especially the days I don't feel good. And can't breathe. Way to many days of olde when it was hell bent to just get it done. Probably the worst was when We had to weld galvanized culverts. My foreman at the time said just drink some milk before you start welding it will coat your stomach so you don't get sick.
I do my best to stick with the right ventilation while welding and painting... The rest is details, I think there is a bit of difference when someone doing it from time to time vs someone who is constantly on the job.
But its a good point!!!
I think Nikson had the right idea. Start from a clean slate.
Working on the trac has me drinking more than a Russian or even a (sigh) Kristi owner. I had to replace the front bumper and when I moved the fender back to where it should be, 10 lbs of bondo hit the floor. I love the craftsmanship Nixson is putting into his builds. Unlike the previous owners of #2116.
Next year I will be hitting him up for advice when I start the body rebuild.
Working on the trac has me drinking more than a Russian or even a (sigh) Kristi owner. I had to replace the front bumper and when I moved the fender back to where it should be, 10 lbs of bondo hit the floor. I love the craftsmanship Nixson is putting into his builds. Unlike the previous owners of #2116.
Next year I will be hitting him up for advice when I start the body rebuild.
that is my partial problem with restorations, a lot of time they become either fixing someone's bondo, or getting rid of all of that rust.
I have hard time riding and relying on a machine that I'm not sure in, although more and more I'm being reassured that these cats are more or less like farm equipment, in worst case - you can run them into the ground but still get there?!
Another part of it - I sleep better knowing that this machine will have another 30+ years if next owner takes care of it...
Sorry, I'm a bit different from most "guys" - dont follow/care much for sports...
As far as protection, the main 2x3 center support is the roll protection.
The way I figured is that this being a very slow speed vehicle, there wont be much rolling going on in the deep snow, while in the not so deep - it will never roll as long as one uses common sense.
Thanks!!!
you are right Nick the best roll protection is an operator with common sense.