Steering problems

Hello,

SnowTrac Newb here. Just picked up a snow trac ST4 out of Las Vegas. Appears to be a ST4 with Track Master tracks. Anyway, the ST4 turns to the left perfectly, but has issues turning to the right. I have read Lyndons article on the variator adjustment top (easy) being done, but bottom (not being adjusted) can cause this issue. My question. What is the proceedure to set the adjustments to default and readjust both sides? Also, should I use steel wool to remove the glaze that has built up on the pulleys or just leave it?

I have posted a picture. Wife was not too happy that I ripped up the front yard.

Thanks

Welcome to the snow cat world. As one member states; Owning a snow cat is like having a woman or a Polaris... The amount of maintenance required is rarely worth the pleasure you receive in return...

If you have not already read this thread do so now:
http://www.forumsforums.com/3_9/showthread.php?t=4113&highlight=steering

Specifically read this post about centering: http://www.forumsforums.com/3_9/showpost.php?p=42232&postcount=24

This procedure works well.

Note that the steering wheel is actually 2 1/2 turns lock-to-lock as noted in this additional post by Lyndon: http://www.forumsforums.com/3_9/showpost.php?p=42299&postcount=29

Additionaly you can:

0) Remove the hood.
1) Remove the big nut (1-1/8") on top of the right variator shaft.
2) Remove the 3 (or 6 bolts) that fasten the top chive on the right side variator shaft splined axel (ST 7687). These bolts are prone to loosening so I always get some replacments with drilled heads and safetywire them so they can not fall out.
3 ) Remove the splined axel from the shaft.
4) Remove the top chive from the right side variator.
5) Remove the variator belt.

Now make that the movable chives can slide up and down easily on the splined axel on both sides of the variator. The bottom chive on the right and the top chive on the left are the ones that move.

If they don't you will have problems steering. They may need to be greased or cleaned of rust. Always keep a cove over the hood of your ST4 to keep water out of the variator!

To clean the pulley chives you will need to remove the chives from the left side also. The procedure for the left side is similar, except everything is upside-down from the right side.

I clean them with with a wire wheel on a handheld grinder.

Hello again, Just wanted to ask an additional question on the steering, My snow trac seems to turn fine without anything in tow, but I pull a 4 x10 drag and have it offset to the left and it turns hard to the right going up hill. Based on my tractor experience this should be normal as most of the weight is pulling to the left an your fighting it , correct? anyway I opened the hood and notice that the variator pivot between the left and right pully is hitting the underside of the hood, is this normal or do yo think something is out of adjustment? Your wisdom is always greatly appreciated!
Thanks

Thanks for all the replies and great advice. I decided that I probably need to take it out to our cabin before I start taking the variator apart. Considering I just backed off the trailer and drove it in circles around the yard. Which was difficult as I'm 6'8". I had a board across the back seats to sit on. The gas pedal linkage was broken so I McGyvered a hanger for the throttle hand control and I had to keep remembering the shift pattern is reversed. That said we got over 35" of new snow at our cabin over the last week so I'll be headed up tomorrow to try it out. I've added a link to youtube of my newb attempt at trying to drive around the yard. Since then, I've adjusted the steering wheel, fixed the gas pedal linkage and moved the seat back.

Again, thanks for all the wonderful advice.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2oiEdeYJrNE"]YouTube - P1020092[/ame]

Nice looking trac master . Was there grass in your yard you were driving on?

Well there used to be grass before I drove on it. Snow Trac makes an effective rototiller. However, we did have plans on re-sodding the front yard this spring.

I may have found the cause of the driving problem. As I was crawling around last night greasing the 1000 grease points on this snow trac I noticed that 3 bolts were missing underneath the right variator.

utahwilson said:

.. I may have found the cause of the driving problem. As I was crawling around last night greasing the 1000 grease points on this snow trac I noticed that 3 bolts were missing underneath the right variator.

Click to expand...

Yep, been-there-done-that. That is why I reccomment the drilled heads and safety wire on those three bolts. The bolts on the left side are underneth the chives so they are harder to look after and keep tight.

What happens when those bolts loosen is that the chive can be come off center and get jammed on the upper chive. When that happens the lower chive on the left side can wear on the ST25 casting and weaken it. When you get a chance to take the variator top-end apart be sure to look and see if the ST25 has a notch worn into it on that side.

Get these bolts fixed ASAP before you operate the Trac-Master any more.

BTW, what is the serial number of your Trac-Master? Looks to be a 1967 or 1968 vintage. I wonder what happened to the front fender extensions?

Teledawg,

Thanks for the advice, We decided to hold off on the maiden voyage until all bolts have been checked. Not sure where to locate the serial number. This snow trac appears to have had many owners and many modifications. I tried searching the forums for info on locating the serial number but came up empty.

Anyway, another question that I can't seem to find an answer. On the left front sprocket there appears to be a "blade" for a lack of another term. Anyone able do shed some light as to what this is for?





Also, the engine has been worked on pretty heavily as well.



thanks for all the help and great advice.

D'OH! Nevermind, I thought the "blade" was attached to the sprocket. Closer inspection figured out its purpose.

Those are "Ice Scrapers" that keep Ice from building up on the drive sprockets. They tended to get broken off alot and its not that common to find them still on a machine. Your Drive sprockets are still pretty healthy, you can swap them around so that the left are on the right and vice versa and get some additional life out of them. Posting 24 in "Variator" gives the procedure for resetting or 'Centering' a Variator. Nice machine. They tend to last longer and require less work with the "cut down tracks" arraingement you have and appear to go just about anywhere they did with the wider tracks.

We have looked high and low for the serial #. Any suggestions where it would be stamped? Assuming its still there.

Thanks

-K

There should be a data-plate on the passengers side rear of the unit right below the joint between the top of the cab and the bottom of the cab. It is about 3"x4" made out of Alum and held on with four pop rivets.

The attached picture shows the location inside the yellow circle.

Your Machine is a very early, possibly first year, Trac Master. IF you look at the Production year # chart you can narrow down the year. How I know this: Snow Trac's won't accomodate Trac Master tracks. The Housing that carries the main drive sprockets is longer to accomodate the wider tracks, as are the square tube that support the rest of the undercarriage. Also Snow Trac's have one less bogey wheel, and the rear wheel doesn't hang out past the body. Most of the Trac Masters had a "Pop-Top" rather than a full sliding sunroof, which means this was one of the very first Trac Masters produced. Even though it took a bit of attention, the Full sliding sunroof was much nicer than the Pop-Top. People often covered them over with sheet metal, but that can usually easily be removed and restored to it's full sliding capacity. They are especially nice for taking pictures and video's out of. Also, if you have the original Cable Choke and Throttle assemblies or new ones that are operational, you can drive it Standing up, with your head out the roof. If the Fan Housing on your engine has a 126 prefix, then the machine is probably one year older than the date on that tag.

I see you don't have a standard fan cowling on the engine so identification that way is out. However, Your machine was built in 1966, and was one of 50 built, it's serian number is between #830, and #879.

Teledawg, Lyndon,

Thanks, plate has been removed from the back. Person who sold it to me said 77 on the phone. Then 71 in person.. I will take 66 and go with that.

Standard to use a deep cycle battery for snowcats? I would not think DC batteries would have enough cranking amps. Anyway, I put 2 more in series with the one on board and added and inverter. So, if I ever get the chance to get our cabin I can have some lights inside without the generator running.

Looking forward to taking this vehicle out Valentines weekend.

Saw this advertised on our local news site Does this sound like a reasonable price? My son and I are not the most comfortable driving this and possibly thinking of upgrading.

http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=5466392&cat=&lpid=

Thanks

-K