Penetrating oils

muleman · Dec 14, 2012

Subject: Penetrating oils

Penetrating Oils
Machinist's Workshop magazine recently published interesting information on various penetrating oils. They tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

Penetrating oils ........... Average torque load to loosen

No Oil used ...................516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix............53 pounds *ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid
The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix.

happy wrenching,

EastTexFrank · Dec 14, 2012

That was interesting. Liquid Wrench is my soaker of choice but I'd never heard of Kano Kroil and sure as hell hadn't heard of ATF and acetone. Thanks for the info.

FrancSevin · Dec 15, 2012

My 9N tractor wheels haven't been off the machine in 20 years. New tires required this summer.

So it looks like ATF and acetone. I would never have known.

Thanks.! :clap:

BigAl · Dec 15, 2012

Great Post !!! I'll be switching over to ATF !!

JEV · Dec 15, 2012

I saw the title of the thread and got excited thinking it was about sex. :brows:

Big Dog · Dec 15, 2012

You can't look in any corner of my garage without seeing the orange of a can of Kroil!

Long time and dedicated believer here!

muleman · Dec 15, 2012

I am working on my last can of liquid wrench myself. Have had good luck using it on farm equipment etc. Never see the Kroil around here.

muleman · Dec 15, 2012

JEV said:
I saw the title of the thread and got excited thinking it was about sex.

That is a totally different type of lubricant. You use that when you want to bust a nut. :yum:

300 H and H · Dec 15, 2012

I've got several of these on hand. I like the Kriol's smell and how it works. It actially makes a pretty good bore solvent for firearms as well. It won't remove copper fast, nothing but Sweet's does IMHO, but It works quite well at removing lead from my .22lr target rifles we use with the 4H club shooters. As fast for that as commercail so called lead removers. It's expensive and hard to come by around here though.

The liquid wrench is what we use the on the farm, and it works well, and is less expencie. WD40 has a place to, for the dry film of lube it leaves behind. Every body seems to carry WD40 in their stores...

I would like to try the ATF mix, but don't know off hand where to get accetone.
Regards, Kirk

Melensdad · Dec 15, 2012

I've got a question.

There are two types of ATF. One is called "TYPE F" and the other is "DEXTRON" so which of these two types is the one to use?

muleman · Dec 15, 2012

Should be no difference for this use. I would not put the acetone mix in a plastic bottle either.

Snowtrac Nome · Dec 15, 2012

the acitone will work well in an hdpe bottle. i have religously used dot 3 brake fluid for braking up rust on badly rusted bolts it ,aso works well on heated parts where the acitone mix would be dangerous. another penetrator that will work wonders is called mouse milk used in the aviaton industry it is another aciton, petrolium mix smells like acitone but will work wonders for breaking up corrosion and freeing bolts.

baldy347 · Dec 15, 2012

I've had better results using Dexron than type F . Dexron is vegetable base and type F is dino from what I've been able to find out. The 50/50 mix has a short shelf life,but have had good luck with it in small batches -mixing it just before i use it.
wayne

JEV · Dec 15, 2012

Here's one for the kings of rust removal other disengagement specialts. The drawbar is rusted in the 2" receiver on my van. Seems some dumbass forgot to remove it before winter a year or so ago (maybe longer...I forget). Anyway, said dumbass would like to remove said drawbar from said receiver. Any ideas or potions to use for this seemingly impossible task, or should I just be happy I have great continuity to ground for hooking up trailers? BTW, I have tried an assortment of BFH's, with zero success. Rust is some badass good adhesive.

OhioTC18 · Dec 15, 2012

Chain it to a tree and put the van in gear. Don't jerk it hard, just a few good whacks.

Big Dog · Dec 15, 2012

JEV said:
Here's one for the kings of rust removal other disengagement specialts. The drawbar is rusted in the 2" receiver on my van. Seems some dumbass forgot to remove it before winter a year or so ago (maybe longer...I forget). Anyway, said dumbass would like to remove said drawbar from said receiver. Any ideas or potions to use for this seemingly impossible task, or should I just be happy I have great continuity to ground for hooking up trailers? BTW, I have tried an assortment of BFH's, with zero success. Rust is some badass good adhesive.

A torch by heating it up and if that don't work a plasma cutter!

JEV · Dec 15, 2012

Big Dog said:
A torch by heating it up and if that don't work a plasma cutter!

Ooooohhhh...I've always wanted to play with a plasma cutter. I think I need to go to my brother's place and use his acetylene torch...with adult supervision, of course.

muleman · Dec 15, 2012

I hooked the skid steer to the one on the Suburban and beat it with a 4 lb. sledge. Knocked a shitload of rust and mud off the Suburban but never budged it. Sent it on the rollback with it still in there. I have had good luck before pulling and beating like that.

Snowtrac Nome · Dec 15, 2012

JEV said:
Here's one for the kings of rust removal other disengagement specialts. The drawbar is rusted in the 2" receiver on my van. Seems some dumbass forgot to remove it before winter a year or so ago (maybe longer...I forget). Anyway, said dumbass would like to remove said drawbar from said receiver. Any ideas or potions to use for this seemingly impossible task, or should I just be happy I have great continuity to ground for hooking up trailers? BTW, I have tried an assortment of BFH's, with zero success. Rust is some badass good adhesive.

jev try this use heat on the outer sleeve than use the heat to draw the brake fluid in on the plus side you wont have any rattle when towing a trailer as it is now.

JEV · Dec 16, 2012

dds said:
jev try this use heat on the outer sleeve than use the heat to draw the brake fluid in on the plus side you wont have any rattle when towing a trailer as it is now.

Darn right about that. The two have become one, and there's no sliding in the receiver like it used to do.

Muley, I went from 3# ball pean to 4# hand sledge to 5#BFH...still as solid as can be.

bczoom · Dec 17, 2012

300 H and H said:
I would like to try the ATF mix, but don't know off hand where to get accetone.
Regards, Kirk

Most any decent paint department or store will have it. It's sold by the gallon at places like Lowe's (in the paint department, next to the other thinners).

leadarrows · Dec 27, 2012

No mention of Fluid Film?

Bamby · Dec 28, 2012

leadarrows said:
No mention of Fluid Film?

I've been under the assumption that Fluid Film is a rust preventative product preferably utilized before components become fused together. But then again I've been guilty miss-assuming things before.

Penetrating oils

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