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Chainsaw Tachometer

Radco

New member
I have read a lot about you guys using a tachometer on the chainsaw. Which one's do you like? This will be for homeowner use not a pro.


Thanks
Rich
 

EastTexFrank

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
Never heard of such a thing. The saw either cuts or it doesn't cut. If it doesn't cut, take the chain off, sharpen it, put it back on and go back to work.

I don't particularly care what rpm the saw is doing, as long as the chips are flying, I'm happy.
 

bczoom

Super Moderator
Staff member
GOLD Site Supporter
Are you referring to something like a Fast-tach? I believe they'll work on chainsaws but except for a service need, I wouldn't see the need for one. After awhile, you'll know if your saw is running at its top RPM (or not) just by listening. Normally, it'll start breaking up at higher RPM's if something is wrong.
 

Bamby

New member
This hast to a joke isn't it? There are so many critical things one has to observant of when running a chainsaw safely already. I can't even contemplate adding the observation of a tach to the mix.
 

grizzer

New member
Methinks consumer grade saws run 5-9K rpms with anti kickback chains & bars

Pro saws run to 11K rpm ginning up much more power.
 

mla2ofus

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
I see no need for a tach provided the chain is sharp and the operator is at least as smart as the saw.
Mike
 

Radco

New member
Are you referring to something like a Fast-tach? I believe they'll work on chainsaws but except for a service need, I wouldn't see the need for one. After awhile, you'll know if your saw is running at its top RPM (or not) just by listening. Normally, it'll start breaking up at higher RPM's if something is wrong.
Tea something like the Fast Tach. But as other have said the need for one when adjusting the saw can be close enough to tune by ear.. So I save a few $$$ and listen better lol Thanks
 

Radco

New member
This hast to a joke isn't it? There are so many critical things one has to observant of when running a chainsaw safely already. I can't even contemplate adding the observation of a tach to the mix.
No not a joke but not looking to mount a Tach on a saw it would be to fine tune the saw as a lot of shops use them.. But I try by ear till I cannt hear anymore lol
 

mla2ofus

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
No not a joke but not looking to mount a Tach on a saw it would be to fine tune the saw as a lot of shops use them.. But I try by ear till I cannt hear anymore lol

I'll suggest ear plugs or muffs and you can still hear it well enough to get the carb set.
Mike
 

JimVT

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
just a 2 cycle tac for the engine but one for the chain ,never heard of.
jim
 

Radco

New member
I'll suggest ear plugs or muffs and you can still hear it well enough to get the carb set.
Mike
I have the ear muffs that are mounted on my hard hat. I was kidding about the hearing ,as I am a old fart :) A Old farmer I knew could time a car by ear and to confirm it would hit it with a timing light, he was nuts on or pretty close. I am just new to working on saws so interested in things people use or do
 

mla2ofus

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
I too am an old fart wearing hearing aids, so I try to preserve what little I have left. For two strokes I warm it up, wind it up to the nuts and turn the high needle out 'til it starts slowing down a little then turn it back in 'til it speeds back up. Let it back to idle and turn the lo speed in until it starts trying to die, then back out 'til it idles smooth. Squeeze the throttle all the way open quickly, if it balks then open the low needle 1/8 turn until it will rev up smoothly. Then set idle speed so the chain just stops. This may take a little playing back and forth between idle mixture and idle speed. You may also have to tweak the high needle slightly after this. Hopefully your saw is old enough you don't have the little plastic EPA stops on the needles. What a pain!! And some are hard to remove so you get so it runs right.
HTH,
Mike
 

Radco

New member
I too am an old fart wearing hearing aids, so I try to preserve what little I have left. For two strokes I warm it up, wind it up to the nuts and turn the high needle out 'til it starts slowing down a little then turn it back in 'til it speeds back up. Let it back to idle and turn the lo speed in until it starts trying to die, then back out 'til it idles smooth. Squeeze the throttle all the way open quickly, if it balks then open the low needle 1/8 turn until it will rev up smoothly. Then set idle speed so the chain just stops. This may take a little playing back and forth between idle mixture and idle speed. You may also have to tweak the high needle slightly after this. Hopefully your saw is old enough you don't have the little plastic EPA stops on the needles. What a pain!! And some are hard to remove so you get so it runs right.
HTH,
Mike
Mike great info Thanks. Very detailed My saw is new and yea EPA carbs , do not see those stops, I just need a splined socket type screw driver , which I ordered , I am planning on getting a older saw to practice taking apart and tuning. Had 2 at my Ex wifes house, So if I can find them I start there. if I screw them up no big deal, 1 is a old home light and the other is a Poulin , Something new for me to play with when I retire :)

Rich
 

Dargo

Like a bad penny...
GOLD Site Supporter
LOL, after 4 shoulder surgeries I think I'd be more interested in an electric starter for my very well made old German Stihl chain saw that easily runs a 36" bar.
 
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