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Quick welding question

DaveNay

Klaatu barada nikto
SUPER Site Supporter
6013 is considered a pretty effective "hot glue" rod right? Welds through paint and rust?

Also, my grinder is DOA right now. If I have one painted piece of steel and another unpainted, can I ground the unpainted piece only and get a good weld?

This is just for a jury-rigged harrow I am building, so looks don't count.
 

Dargo

Like a bad penny...
GOLD Site Supporter
It's about as forgiving as any, but no rods perform very well with a lot of impurities. The longer you can keep your puddle liquid like, the better the chance you'll get the crap to float to the top. The 6013 is a decent overall electrode. Many people get far too concerned with strength ratings of a particular electrode. A 60XX rod is rated at 60,000 pounds, a 70XX is rated at 70,000 pounds etc. Most all mild steel will fail before 60,000. It does you no good to have a weld that will hold to 80,000 pounds when your parent material will fail at 30,000.
 

daedong

New member
DaveNay said:
6013 is considered a pretty effective "hot glue" rod right? Welds through paint and rust?

Also, my grinder is DOA right now. If I have one painted piece of steel and another unpainted, can I ground the unpainted piece only and get a good weld?

This is just for a jury-rigged harrow I am building, so looks don't count.
No problem at all.
 

XeVfTEUtaAqJHTqq

Master of Distraction
Staff member
SUPER Site Supporter
Dargo said:
It's about as forgiving as any, but no rods perform very well with a lot of impurities. The longer you can keep your puddle liquid like, the better the chance you'll get the crap to float to the top. The 6013 is a decent overall electrode. Many people get far too concerned with strength ratings of a particular electrode. A 60XX rod is rated at 60,000 pounds, a 70XX is rated at 70,000 pounds etc. Most all mild steel will fail before 60,000. It does you no good to have a weld that will hold to 80,000 pounds when your parent material will fail at 30,000.

some good advice,,,,,,,,,,,,burn the rod a long time and burn of the stuff,,,,,,,,,,,makes sense,,,,,,,maybe,,,,,,,,,,,thingmy

:whistle:
 

Dargo

Like a bad penny...
GOLD Site Supporter
PBinWA said:
some good advice,,,,,,,,,,,,burn the rod a long time and burn of the stuff,,,,,,,,,,,makes sense,,,,,,,maybe,,,,,,,,,,,thingmy

:whistle:


Ah, yer killin me,,,,,:yum: :yum:

neber weldud mahself eny,,,,buts i steyed at a hollerday in spress 1 time,,,,
 

DaveNay

Klaatu barada nikto
SUPER Site Supporter
OK...finally got around to this project this evening.

6011 1/8" rod. Seemed cold. OK penetration, sloppy bead and splatter
6013 3/16" rod. Nice penetration, but very very sloppy bead and splatter.
7014 3/16" rod. Looks great, slag chips off nicely and leaves a nice bead. Poor penetration on the painted material.
7018 3/16" rod. Don't know. It was almost two years old, and the flux broke off when I touched it.

Before anyone says anything about shoulda done this, shoulda done that; of course the 7014 won't penetrate painted surfaces, blah blah blah. This is my first attempt to actually weld two pieces that I plan on using, and not just messing around. I am trying to learn what results I get in what situations.

Final result is the 6013 is a mess, but probably has the stongest welds.
 

Wannafish

Floppy Member
SUPER Site Supporter
DaveNay said:
OK...finally got around to this project this evening.

Final result is the 6013 is a mess, but probably has the stongest welds.

Ya'll want purty - get a mig and be done with it...or practice, practice, practice.

:weneedpic
 
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