View Full Version : SW-48 Restoration...

05-17-2010, 03:48 PM
First of all, sorry for being such a lurker lately. I've followed closely most of the threads going on. I've been busy since the snow disapeared early here in Canada...taking apart my SW-48 and finding what 35 years of no proper maintenance can do to a machine. After removing all the wheels and finding most of the bearings rusted or half rusted (water line...), figured the suspension would be the same. Took the suspension apart too and found seized bearing, missing seals, rusted cups... Here are a couple of pics, just got so into it that I forgot a some points to take pictures. First pic shows where I drew the line --> no more disassembly, gonna go over budget!
Second pic shows wheels and suspension parts, sandblasted down to bare metal, primed and 3 coats of paint! Third, close-ups of suspension parts, some still needing repair (front wheel arm). Fourth pic shows the intake/exhaust manifold before sandblasting and fifth, after. More to come...

Snowtrac Nome
05-17-2010, 05:22 PM
Pat that man on the back looks like he is painting his bombi snow trac red

05-18-2010, 02:33 PM
For some reason, the second post I did yesterday didn't show up...:whistling:

Don, as much as I'd like to paint the whole thing red and make it look as good as J5Bombardier's machine, I think I'll stick with the black/yellow combination. The red paint was just for the suspension parts, you know, kinda like Porche brake calipers :unsure:.

Try this again... Posting more pics :
1 - Starting reassembly of suspension with seals, cups, and cones;
2 - One side done, looking good, can't wait to see wheels;
3 - Had to machine quite a few parts, this is the spacer behind the wheel;
4 - Ahhhh, just about ready for a wheel;
5 - Same as the suspension, seals, cups, and cones;
6 - Got two of them on! :clap:

05-20-2010, 08:39 PM
Hey !!! All that stuff looks so familiar :yum:

J5 Bombardier
05-21-2010, 06:35 PM
Nice Work ! Keep the pics coming !
J5 Bombardier

05-22-2010, 06:50 AM
It is hard work and it's kept me from smoking so far. It's been almost 5 months now. Yesterday I put on the last wheel (front) on that side and repacked the "flower pot" with new cups, cones and seals. I don't know if the J5 had that aluminum cap on the "flower pot" but no one had the double seals that fit in that hole other than Prinoth/Plannord. So instead of paying a lot, slapped the puppies on the lathe and removed about 25/1000 " so the new seals would fit snuggly in. Almost ready for reinstall of the Sprocket assy. But I'm gonna flush the diff first (thanks for the tips Pixie) before I seal those "flower pots back to the hull. I'm also picking up belting next week, found some 3ply 330 for about 3.25$/ft @ 4.5" wide. It will be a nice machine once I'm done.:brows:

J5 Bombardier
05-22-2010, 08:04 AM
Does your source carry heavier belting ? I'm still looking for some 5 ply 550 x5.5 in
J5 Bombardier

05-24-2010, 02:39 PM
J5B, sorry, there was no 4 or 5 ply at the shop, but they had lot's of 2 ply for any Bombi owners in the national capitol region...:brows:
Well the manifold left today for Montreal to get welded. I left it in the hands of my father in-law, a 35+ years millwright who took a very big load off my shoulders because I've looked and shopped and have even been asked if I had some manifolds. They are rare items.
Has anybody had problems finding the strainer/rubber gasket assy for the fuel pump on the 6 inline flathead? All the suppliers I've been to show me a picture of the part (got the p.n. out of the book Chrysler Industial Engines) and it is now a paper cartridge that doesn't fit in the bowl. I've thought about an electric pump and an inline filter, but I'm sure the screen strainer is cheaper??? Any help on this would be appreciated. Will post more pics this week as more parts get installed on the machine. The winch is also in pieces so when I have all the wheels back on and the tracks rebuilt, I'll work on the winch until the manifold comes back from the weld shop. Until then, let's enjoy summer:w00t2:.

J5 Bombardier
05-24-2010, 05:01 PM
Benz9 keep your eye out for a manifold off M37 dodge,M43 radio trucks, I used that on mine. The exhaust exits out the bottom,I did a u turn with the pipe and up and out. Could be a little tight on the narrow hull of a sw48,but it's an idea. Fuel pump I went electric with in line fuel filters on both sides of the pump, and a carb off a 250 chev in line 6,single barrel Rochester worked for me, no more govenor,I just keep an eye on the tach 2200 rpm tops.
J5 Bombardier

Snowtrac Nome
05-24-2010, 05:20 PM
Another option would be to get some proseal and and glue the bowl shut put in a inline fuel filter or just replace the mechanical pump with a new one i would opt th fab up a block off plate remove the old pump and run an electric pump with one filter on the outlet side also only use rubber hose to splice your steel lines. use of rubber lines to replace the steel lines could cause vapor lock as rubber wont remove heat as effectivaly as the steel lines will

Snowtrac Nome
05-24-2010, 05:22 PM
also with your don't try to push through the fuel pump it will work but if you rupture the diaphram it will fill your crank case full of fuel

05-25-2010, 06:48 AM
J5B and Don, thanks for the advice. We did take the governor plate off yesterday before sending it off to Montreal and there was a nut blocking any movement of the mechanism inside. Didn't Bogie say this was something you really should leave on??? I know that I run mine at about 3000 RPM and so far the head is still on the block. Once we removed the nut, the governor was free to move. Did yours have a key to adjust it? Yeah a real key like for a desk drawer. I guess it's to adjust spring tension.
I will start to shop for an electric pump, since this is a popular choice. BTW Don, my fuel line is completely rubber??? Maybe set up some kinda water retention device, like the glass bowl, but with a purge valve that is accessible...now wouldn't that be smart???

05-25-2010, 09:41 AM
If it helps, you can get M37 engine parts from Vintage Powerwagons dot com.

I've had issues in the past with electric fuel pumps when it's real cold, so I would suggest getting another mechanical one.

Snowtrac Nome
05-25-2010, 11:44 AM
If it helps, you can get M37 engine parts from Vintage Powerwagons dot com.

I've had issues in the past with electric fuel pumps when it's real cold, so I would suggest getting another mechanical one.
Im not one to chnge from the way the engineers designed things un les i have to what problems have you had i run my snow trac in some pretty cold weather and have no problems yet some rules one should remember about electric fuel pumps is to mount pumps on the same plane as the fuel tank or below it , moutn the fuel pump in close to the fuel tank and use solid lines with flares on the pressure side both to prevent vapor lock and the chance oi a hose slipping off and blowinf fuel all over the hot engine .i have seen this in the past remember in the late 70s and 80s ford used a rubber hose between the fuel pressure line and fuel filter wich was right next to the distributor on the v8 engines the hose rotted and blew a stream of gas on the ignition system the car pulled into our gas station on fire under the hood took 3 extuinguishers to put it out.

05-25-2010, 06:44 PM
Ah Man, this is getting complicated. I like the mechanical pump, I just can't get the screen for it. It always worked good before until it clogged up. I also have a little experience in the army with the Iltis Jeep and it had an electric fuel pump and even in the summer, a good kick would often get a non-working pump running. I just don't think it's a good place for the pump because when the manifolds are back on, there is almost no room to go empty that bowl of water and $h!t. That's where the 3$ in-line filter comes in...:brows: As for the manifold, I've written to Vintage Power Wagons and they don't have the one for my engine, it's been out of stock for a long time. I've left it in good hands and trust the old man to do a good job on it. I'll try to go up to the shoe factory where he works and snap a couple of pics of his welding!
While waiting for chemical gasket to dry this afternoon, started to work on the winch. I just love the gunk that replaces grease in there when dudes go in the swamp with a SW and don't wash it off after. It's just swamp water and fine sand, eating away at all the steel parts (and alum too). So it's all cleaned up, planetary assy, clutch and all. ready for repacking and paint. At least there are no parts to replace so far.
Got some pics, I'll post later tonite...smell y'all later.

Snowtrac Nome
05-25-2010, 06:53 PM
I'm have no idea about the itlis pumps in the us military all our equipment used facet fuel pumps never had a problem. the other nice thing about those pumps they had a filter screen and magnet at the bottom to pre filter the fuel

05-26-2010, 10:06 PM
Sorry guys, a day late with the pics...
basically it's just the third wheel installed and then putting new bearings in the "flower pot" and reinstalling the sprocket. It's on the SW so we don't get moisture in the diff. I still have to clean out the water residue in the bottom of that huge enclosure the diff sits in. I can only imagine it must be bigger on a J5 and Muskeg, therefore take even more oil??? Wow. Started to take the track apart today...long process when 1 out of 5 bolt actually unscrews. the others have to be grinded or drilled (I prefer grinding, much faster). Catch y'all later.

05-26-2010, 11:07 PM
The bolts in my track were 1/2". The ones that wouldn't come apart I just broke :smile: ( About one in five ! )

Differential is the same and usually in about the same size enclosure on SW48, J5 and Muskegs.
Adapt some 3/8 fuel line to a wet/dry vac with duct tape and maybe plumbing fittings and stuff it down the filler hole. Use some copper tubing stuffed in the end of the fuel line so you can move the line around in the bottom of the diff. enclosure. The really nasty stuff doesn't always flow ..... Rinse and repeat !

Edit to add : your vacume will smell funny for a while... don't 'borrow' your wife's :yum:

05-27-2010, 07:24 AM
Pixie, you are by far the coolest gal on this forum! I think you must have seen my type of track, the one with fury slippers that don't damage the city's sidewalks (pic 1). It is very hard to break the bolts because of the rubber all around the bolt. Any one have tricks, they are welcome. I took just under 2h to get 6 grousers completely removed with no bolts in the holes. At 54/track, that's gonna be a long task for the hot summer:unsure:.(pic 2) Going to GBS today to pick up some more bearings, start working on drivers side suspension and wheels... more $$$ :glare:

Snowtrac Nome
05-27-2010, 11:22 AM
ok partner try this those bolts look to be 5/16 inch center punch and drill through the heads if the heads don't fall right off 1 blow from a chisel should remove itwhen you are done pick up your grousers and go

05-27-2010, 02:09 PM
Thanks, Benz :blush:

I didn't remember that you had the furry ones.
My hot tip of the day ........ FIRE :w00t2:

PS It's gonna smell; wear a respirator. Do it at night so the neighbors don't call anyone :wink:


Snowtrac Nome
05-27-2010, 02:43 PM
Ice queen is hotter she likes snow trac's

iI enjoy having all the FF women around they are funny not easyly offended but still ladies when they need to be

05-27-2010, 09:19 PM
Ouch, that is a hot tip and one that I did think of, except here, it's so illegal that they won't even take copper at the recycler if they suspect you burnt the insulator off. Bah, it's pay day and went to get some more parts at the bearing store and was about to assemble one more wheel tonite when I realized that I had to make spacers to fit behind the big washer on the suspension (for some reason, maybe wear, if I don't put a 3/16 spacer behind that washer, I can't get the cones to hug the cups:unsure:). Then, I realized, I have to make the big washers too. Well I cheated a little on those and bought some big ass washers and just trimmed them down a bit and bored them out a little more on the lathe. They fit just fine now. If I was in Nome, then I could keep working tonite, but unfortunatly, it gets dark here around 9pm so I have to give up assembling until tomorow. Don I will try your trick and let you know how it turned out.

06-01-2010, 11:18 PM
Ahhh, it's raining here so I get the night off to post some more pics... Going well actually. Takes me less and less time to install stuff. Experience I guess. Here we go. First pic from Saturday morning, just finished cleaning up the rust and spayed a coat of primer on the hull. After adding two coats of black gloss, had to fix one of the axles, someone had welded it and had left a lot of popcorn. Used an angle grinder to make a good surface for the washer to rest on. Second pic is the tandem bar reinstalled. Had to replace the washers here and the originals had a small hole in them to let the grease out (to show it's full???) so I also make a #40 hole in the washer (you can see the grease coming out on the right of the crown nut). I didn't replace the nuts, although slightly rusted, they are fine. Did replace the cotter pins. 4 new grade 5 bolts for the rear wheel axle. Prepped a wheel for install but without the front wheel swing arm and spring can attached, it would make installing these part difficult with wheels on.
Don, I haven't tried your trick yet, the wife had me do a bunch of house work on Sunday but I plan on taking the drill press outside and trying it.
Here's a question to y'all, there is a machinery shop in Laval that (I'm guessing here) services the SWs for the city of Montreal/Laval and is selling used Camoplast tracks for the SW. Has anybody run these tracks before? Are they heavier than the standard tracks? How much less traction will I get with a used track as opposed to the steel grousers bolted to a new rubber belt? Things to think about...

06-01-2010, 11:29 PM
Here is a pic of the used tracks....

Snowtrac Nome
06-01-2010, 11:52 PM
we ran all rubber tracks on the bv 206's worked good on the snow and most other surfaces the only tine they sucked were on ice and in clay type gumbo that little problem could be resolved with cleats made of short pieces of channel iron say 2 inches 1 layed paralell with the grouser and on the next grouser lay it at 90 degrees . i would jump on those tracks alot easyer than re belting the one down side buy lots of molsons and invite a bunch of buddys over too help loop the track on there will be some bad words used.

06-03-2010, 06:13 AM
called the guy up yesterday after posting the picture and asked him the price for the used belts (new ones go for 1900$ each + tax, so over 4G:w00t2:). He said that he has two types, used and really used, so 1000$ for the first (set of two) and 500$ for the later (set of two).
Here's my question. How would a flat track compare to a track made with steel 2.5" grousers and converyor belting? When I asked him this, I don't think he understood, he started talking about guys that bought his used tracks for skidding wood in the forest and added angle iron to the belts??? Cost wise, it's still cheaper to rebuild original but man, it's a lot of work. I don't like the easy road, but in this case, after taking 6 grousers off the first track, I get discouraged and have to do something else for a while before starting on the next six.:w00t2: So unless (1) I win the lotto, (2) get free tracks or (3) some fall from the sky (not too close to the house I hope) then I'll continue to take my tracks apart all summer and rebuild them in the fall!

Alaska Snow Cat
06-03-2010, 10:46 AM
Tracks seem to be the Achilles Heal to making a snow cat affordable. Once they are worn out they are either a pain to work on or expensive but usually both. However once you rebuild/replace yours they will last a long time with proper care and usage.
I once found a brand new track for a Thiokol Spryte at the local metal recycling yard that still had the tag on it. I paid $50 for it and then stored it for over 10 years as the tracks on my Spryte were in good shape. I tried selling it locally and on places like this forum and finally sold it at an auction for $25. The thing was worth thousands.....to the right person at the right time.
Depending on what you plan on doing with your SW would kind of decide if you need grousers or not. If you are just plowing your driveway or going off road in the summer than the all rubber track would give you a better ride and do less damage to you drive way. Deep snow fresh snow with any kind of hills will require some type of cleat or a winch and shovel.
Oh one more thing, once you invest in new tracks, rebuild the ones you have, or sell your SW, you will find tracks all the time usually for free..guaranteed!

06-03-2010, 02:28 PM
Wow, all I can reply to that last comment is a quote from Homer Simpson --> DOH!:doh:

Thanks for the insight, I do plan on exploring a bit with the SW once the tracks are road worthy (I've never gone far from home with the fear one might let go). I have decided to give my money to a local business and purchase conveyor belting to rebuild my tracks. Mr. DDS, master mechanics and wizard at bolt removal, your trick did work. As long as I punch dead center, pilot hole with a #7 cobalt (get them from the father in-law for free) and then full on with a 3/8" jobbers drill bit, more than half the time, the nut stays stuck on the bit! I managed to get another 6 removed this afternoon in less than 2h. So far, found only 2 broken grousers...ouf. I don't have many spares. What about painting theses things, not the grousers but the back plates and the tire guides? I'd love to do that, get rid of the rust, but will it just wear off with use? N E ways, here are some pics of today's work, notice the track getting shorter?

06-06-2010, 12:06 PM
I remember years ago replacing a bunch of those. Before you go to far, call around to anybody who works for a city garage or parks & rec dept to see if maybe they have some left hanging around. We had purchased two machines from the parks dept and they had spare pieces to rebuild one complete side, 2 spare wheels, lots of bearings, spare tranny and all kinds of stuff.
We also replaced the single seat with one from the back of a Dodge Raider which fit great so we could have somebody travel with you. We modify the sticks to off set from the center so we could get two in the cab.

Snowtrac Nome
06-06-2010, 02:41 PM
good idea i'm not familiar with those older sw's i bet a rear seat from a cj would also work.

06-06-2010, 10:46 PM
Cool, nice ideas...
Here is a mock up of the color scheme... Sorry Don, not a Snow Track so not too much red. Might just have enough time this summer to do it since all the rest is going faster than expected.

06-16-2010, 09:35 AM
Well, been busy with new tracks...Got my rubber last week (it's at GBS on Kent St in Ottawa) and sat on it all weekend (went to the Bombardier museum instead of working on it) but Monday was a nice day so after painting the last of the wheel guides and back plates, made a guide for my knife to cut the belting to size. Then I used the same guide to mark my holes and punched two full lengths (24feet @ 4 grousers/feet * 4 holes/grouser = over 400 holes). I know there are only supposed to be 56 grousers/track and that makes for a track at about 15 feet but it will overlap on 2 grousers and whatever is left over will remain with the machine as spare track patch. Here's some eye candy:

Alaska Snow Cat
06-16-2010, 11:55 AM
Ooooooo, aaaaaaah, niiiiice!

06-18-2010, 11:16 AM
Ooooooooooh Aaaaaaaaaaaaaah is right. Check out this puppy!

Snowtrac Nome
06-18-2010, 11:24 AM
nice work , i've noticed how much more effert we all are putting in too our cats when we have a place to show off our work

06-19-2010, 09:07 PM
Thanks Don, it is cool to have a place to show off the hard work we put into these beasts. It's also nice to have people who understand (vitually) pat you on the back. My mom says I'm doing a good job when she comes over for diner, but I really don't think she understands all the work that went into this SW-48.

After getting the last of the bearings for this project, reinstalled the last of the suspension and the wheels. It is now moveable! I will try to pull it with my van from it's hole under the trees and park it in front of the garage door so the tools will be closer for the manifold reinstall. Here are some pics of the project so far. I wanted to keep the picture of the bearing boxes for Pixie's thread on them, but here they are. This represents about 700$ worth of bearing cups and cones and oil seals. There are 4 boxes missing because I judged those bearings (in the flower pot on the left side) to be good. Every cup and cone in the suspension was rusted or seized. The wheel bearings were half good but not one of them had a proper seal so they were all full of swamp sand. I guess the previous owner took if for a Muskeg. There are 4 green boxes and those are the seals in the flower pot. For some reason, the aluminum cover on the pots had an odd diameter and the Bombardier seals were completely rubber. (J-A Bombardier opened a rubber factory with his son at the head to create all the rubber parts for the snow cats including the endless tracks. This seal must have been made there.) No troubles for a guy with a lathe, just made that opening 20/1000" bigger and fit that seal in there perfectly. Oh yeah, that's right, there's two of them.:brows:

My manifold is due back next week!:clap: So once the tracks are all rebuilt and installed, I'll start looking for the gaskets for that. I think I found them on Vintage Power Wagons but if someone has another source for the manifold gaskets on a Chrysler 251 Industrial 8A engine, please let me know, I'd rather spend my money locally.

I'll also slowly start replacing the hydraulic hoses that are starting to show signs of age (cracks and leaks). I'm gonna need to brush up on my hydraulics, because that was a long time ago and being in electronics, I haven't touched that since High School. Good thing we have Princess Auto where everything (almost) comes from China except the hydraulics:shifty:.

Y'all have a good weekend. I'll be in Drummondville for the next couple of days looking at the parts I can scrounge for my machine. I'll take pictures if they let me...

Snowtrac Nome
06-19-2010, 09:58 PM
good work i'm glad the guy i got my snow trac from knew how to use a greese gun i will post some pics from today later right now i have to put a transmission in to a wrangler

06-21-2010, 11:03 AM

I have the exact same Chrysler 251 Industrial 8A engine in my Tucker. I was able to get a complete engine overhaul gasket set at CarQuest Auto Parts. Do you have one of them near-by? If not, I bet NAPA would be able to get them also...

Snowtrac Nome
06-21-2010, 12:21 PM
carquest iss the same as advance auto parts and cragens i would bet just all the parts stores could get you the gasket set as most of those flat heads shared alot of gaskets

06-22-2010, 09:58 PM
Looking good.
I used Fel-Pro MS 8583 B for the manifold gasket for my 251. Purchased at local NAPA.
Regarding your earlier fuel pump query: Have had good luck so far with an electric FACET pump, with additional clear plastic pre-filter, both also from NAPA.
If you have not already done so, you might as well pull the cab to clean out your differential. Melt and rain water can collect in that vicinity, and the cover gasket may leak. Greatly facilitates the wash-out process. You can also get a good look at your brake linings etc.
CAT TO-4 fluid works well for the refill.

06-23-2010, 05:23 AM
Thanks for the info guys, gals. I just got back last night from a job site in Drummondville where I managed to get some parts for my second track that were broken. I will be going to NAPA today since they are only a few "klicks' away but if they don't have it, yes, we have CarQuests here, 3 of them in the Ottawa metropolitain area.
125a - I've decided to stay with the mechanical pump on the engine. It works now and I think I'll just add a prefilter from a diesel engine with a purge valve underneath bolted to the back wall (behind the seat but inside engine compartment) for easier access to purge water. I do plan on removing the cab, but not this year. I know it would be much easier but it's important that it works before the first snow! We've discussed in detail the CAT TO-4 fluid and even with a brother-in-law working at CAT, any 5 gallon pail of oil that is over 150$ is not worth it. Canadian Tire TDH works just fine for me at 44$/5gal. Thanks for the part number, I'm sure that will speed things up at NAPA.

the old trucker
06-23-2010, 02:18 PM
Thanks for the info guys, gals. I just got back last night from a job site in Drummondville where I managed to get some parts for my second track that were broken.

Benz9 did you get your parts from Marcelle Houle ? Is his work place @ exit 185 on HWY 20 ? I want to get two windows like the ones that are in your doors. I think they will fit in my B12 doors.
Do you have his phone number ?
The Old Trucker

06-23-2010, 07:10 PM
Old Trucker --> 819-397-5669 don't bring too much money, you might spend it all there:unsure:. Any pics of your project??? How's it moving along? I'm going to St-Raymond next year to see the parade, will you be in it?:biggrin:

Found the gasket kit at NAPA but geez louise, American part # aren't the same in Canada, go figure, hey!
But I have on order, gasket, engine bolts, brass nuts and washers. I need a small o-ring for my fuel pump and I'd be ready to start her up again!:clap: Maybe not this weekend, but the next one for sure.

I can't believe the fastener store was all out of 3/8 washers. They should be in tomorrow after lunch, tracks needing bolts to get rebuilt.

So much to do this weekend and so little time... Must prioritize 1- attend kids high school graduation on Friday night, 2- get home late so sleep a bit, 3- get up early, drink coffee, work on SW, 4- eat lunch, 5- work on SW, 6- stop for supper, 7-work on SW until dark, ... you guys know the drill...

the old trucker
06-23-2010, 08:39 PM
Sorry no pics to talk about. Been too busy this last month with the lousy flu. My neighbour/ "mechanic" is back to work, so I'm kinda limited to what I can do that way & health wise. I think I have to move the engine back 3-4" for clearance for the rad to go in place.
I got patterns for the wood today, so I will be ready for that part. Kinda got to watch the stash, don't take long to disappear. I have a couple of pics for you. I had the bushings made from uhmw material. Supposed to last longer than steel. Also ordered new bearings & seals. Here's a setup from Quebec, slides instead of wheels.



07-02-2010, 07:26 PM
125a --> Right on the money on those gaskets! thanks a million.
Old Trucker --> take care of yourself, and best of luck with your project.

Been busy taking the second track apart with the usual problematic bolts that just put me in a "crap I hate this $h!t" kinda mood. So I pause and try something else, like sandblast backing plates and tire guides, move the SW-48 closer to the garage, ready for engine rebuild & test, etc...
Then the mood returns to normal and I attack the track again. I was really happy to see my manifold return from Montreal all repaired:clap:.Thanks a million to my father in law for his magic.

Dropped by NAPA today and all the engine studs, nuts, gaskets were in! Also found a plastic box for housing the battery. I've been hunting for one of these for a while and found it at your friendly neighborhood NAPA, again. Also hit a hard spot on the track this week, so I took the valve covers off, sandblasted them and painted them. Wish I had engine blue, but High Temp Tremclad was all I had on Canada's 143rd birthday (all the stores were closed). Notice there is one stud left that broke. I have to try an easy out on it before reinstalling the manifold. Also, I think I better get moving on the fuel pump too, much easier access without the manifold on...:brows:
Here are some pics of the progress:

07-02-2010, 08:29 PM
Looks like things are moving right along, Benz. :clap:

I got to thinking... you didn't mention any special tactics to get bolts out from under the tire guides..... do you want to tell your secret ?

Snowtrac Nome
07-02-2010, 08:47 PM
125a --> Right on the money on those gaskets! thanks a million.
Old Trucker --> take care of yourself, and best of luck with your project.

Been busy taking the second track apart with the usual problematic bolts that just put me in a "crap I hate this !t" kinda mood. So I pause and try something else, like sandblast backing plates and tire guides, move the SW-48 closer to the garage, ready for engine rebuild & test, etc...
Then the mood returns to normal and I attack the track again. I was really happy to see my manifold return from Montreal all repaired:clap:.Thanks a million to my father in law for his magic.

Dropped by NAPA today and all the engine studs, nuts, gaskets were in! Also found a plastic box for housing the battery. I've been hunting for one of these for a while and found it at your friendly neighborhood NAPA, again. Also hit a hard spot on the track this week, so I took the valve covers off, sandblasted them and painted them. Wish I had engine blue, but High Temp Tremclad was all I had on Canada's 143rd birthday (all the stores were closed). Notice there is one stud left that broke. I have to try an easy out on it before reinstalling the manifold. Also, I think I better get moving on the fuel pump too, much easier access without the manifold on...:brows:
Here are some pics of the progress:
I own an easy out set but almost never use it anymore try welding a washer to the studd than weld a bolt to the washer and while evey thing is glowing red slowly back the bolt oout and it should reemove even the most rusted in broken studd

07-02-2010, 09:42 PM
You're welcome. I saved the empty box for an occasion such as this.

I have the parts manual in a pdf, if you need a copy.

07-03-2010, 07:20 AM
Pixie, yes, I think I could almost start the engine this weekend if I put my mind to it, but to no avail, there are no tracks...:whistling: The big secret, and sorry for posting it in your thread:mellow:, is to cut up the track in small pieces, like 6 grousers so it's manageable, after exhausting all options on the nut, slap the rest of this piece of track on the drill press, center punch the bolt itself and drill until you're thru the nut with a small pilot drill. Then (I use a cobalt bit) drill with a 3/8" (my bolts are 3/8, yours are 1/2) bit and if you drilled center, the nut (or what's left of it) will stay on your drill bit. The rest is easy. I took pictures of this process but figured it was boring... guess I was wrong. I am glad I'll only have to do this once in the life of this SW-48:neutral:.

Don, OMG, that is such a radical mesure. I guess regular steel wire wouldn't stick to the cast iron. It sounds so tried and true that I just might try it today.

125A - Thanks for the offer, I have both parts manual for the SW and J5 of 1972/73 plus I bought the Chrysler book for the engine. If you have something else, I'd love to have it:brows:. I have a habit of marking real part numbers in my printed manuals for future reference...helps later down the road.

Looks like another nice warm summer day, perfect conditions to work on my machine...after a good breakfast. Ciao.

07-04-2010, 01:46 PM
It's lunch time Sunday, been at it most of the weekend. Put the "track teardown" project on the back burner, it was just too hot for that. Instead, I tested dds's trick on the engine block stud. I welded a washer, then welded a bolt and while it was still red hot, broke the stud even further into the block. I had to go the easy-out method and I wasn't impressed. It took a good 2h to get it out.

Then I decided to work on wiring in the engine compartment. When the tins are off, it makes it much easier to work. Put all the wiring inside a old heater hose and ty-wrapped it all to make it not only look good, but protected too!

I then got the urge to sandblast my tins, and so I did, and they are all primed and ready for paint! I'm now committed to doing the cab...:whistling:

Now it's time to relax, maybe even go to the air show today in Gatineau!

At the same time, slapped some High Temp paint on the manifold...:w00t2:

I'll be back on "track" duty this week and most likely will have #2 done by the end of week if all goes well. Here's a couple of pics:

Alaska Snow Cat
07-05-2010, 01:38 AM
Instead, I tested dds's trick on the engine block stud. I welded a washer, then welded a bolt and while it was still red hot, broke the stud even further into the block. I had to go the easy-out method and I wasn't impressed. It took a good 2h to get it out.

Don's trick works good but next time try heating the block and use a piece of ice to cool the stud(after welding on the nut) which causes it to shrink while the block expands. Also if you are good, and I mean really good, Center drill the broken stud all the way through and using a small tip on your cutting torch get the stud glowing orange and then give it a short blast of oxygen. I have had much better success at this method than with an easy out. The mass of the block prevents it from getting as hot as the stud and as quickly so only the stud melts and is blasted out.

07-05-2010, 07:26 PM
AK Snow Cat, my bad, I used a mig welder to weld the washer/bolt, guess O/A would have been preferable... It's out now, no worries...back to "track duty", less than 20 grousers left!!!!!

Snowtrac Nome
07-06-2010, 01:13 AM
i normaly use a mig with .030 you have to use a weld i have also done it with 7018 a good solid weld is necessary and it will work also if using an easy out drilling the studd all the way through will allow the materail to shrink to ease removal when i knoow the bolt will come out easy i use reverse flute drill bits got to use them this weekend when my 6.2 diesel broke a starter bolt.

07-06-2010, 06:03 AM
dds, I'm thinking of getting some reverse flutes, I've heard only good things about them. Even as we go through a heat wave, I gave my all last night and there are only 5 grousers left to disassemble on track #2. I forgot that this coming weekend is my hometown festival with lots of outdoor concerts. Trying to get as much done since I want to go to the festival :-).

07-07-2010, 01:05 PM
This part wasn't supposed to be done this year, but I've been aching to try it out and see how heavy it is. Check it out!:w00t2:

07-07-2010, 02:20 PM
Cool !!!!

You've gone this far, you might as well dump the gas out and rinse the tank and open up the differential and see what's in there ... :smile:

07-07-2010, 02:55 PM
:poke:You didn't tell me that you were a mind reader too!
Only problem, festival starts tomorrow and ends Sunday night and I have friends and family coming over just for that, so it might go to next week.
Hmmm, think I'll make it before the snow comes?
Is it 35 degrees Celcius (95F) and more in your neck of the woods too?
I'm at the office "chillin" cause it's cooler here than at home....:w00t2:

07-07-2010, 06:44 PM
Yes, on the temperature !!! I have an air conditioner in my garage ( only one ) but it's not big enough. Have to go sit in my car to cool off.
It's 10F degrees cooler today... I hope that's a trend. But the humidity is worse and that could back off anytime !

Do you have a cover so rain won't leak into your differential ?

07-07-2010, 08:29 PM
Pixie, Yes, I've covered "her" up real nice with 3 layers so no water gets in there. But, you did put an itch behind one of my ears...with your post this afternoon. I didn't think I'd have time tonite...but...

It's the prettiest thing on the whole machine. :blush:

I'm not too proud of whoever put the cover back on the last time (not the previous owner, I know that for a fact) but whoever it was used bathroom silicone on the Bombardier rubber gasket. Most of the bolts at totally rusted and I'm not reusing them. I'm even thinking of making a new plate...I can do it all except the hump for the crown gear. Maybe I'll go see my friend at the stainless shop, they have a few large presses...:ermm:

Not too much rust on her curves, and there's a lot of brake material:clap:. No pitting on the gears (I know the picture looks like that but it's just a rust stain, nice and smooth). I am so happy that this part is good. Now it's time to pack it in for the night, it's already getting dark here (and cooler, thank god). If I get an early start tomorrow, I may just get her all cleaned up and resealed before the rain (whenever that is...).

07-09-2010, 06:29 PM
:coolshadeThis week is hot!!!

It's also a week that lots of things get done.

Pic #1, new cork style gaskets on the valve covers and exhaust/intake gaskets from NAPA on the block.

Pic #2, manifold installed with straight pipe:w00t2:. Notice first bolt on block, had to burr it down a bit so the nut would turn...DOH!:pat:
Also notice first of two new fuel filters.

Pic #3, went to a gasket specialist and got a 20X20 piece of rubber to make the diff cover gasket. Cut it myself with scisors and Olfa knife. Put in brand new bolts (got grade 8 bolts for the price of 5 because they were out today).

Pic #4, it's cooled down a lot, but with the cold front came the rain. 3 layers of plastic protection for my baby. Hopefully, tomorrow will be drier and I'll be able to do more work.

Pic #5, Pixie, 10$ :w00t2:Hope it works....

07-09-2010, 06:36 PM
Pixie and anyone else,
I also used your (Pixie) trick and cleaned out the pinion compartment with diesel and a small hose (used a home made Bernoulli machine for vaccum). Now before I seal it up tomorrow, is there anything else I should be looking for in the diff compartment. I've cleaned every corner where there was crap visible/reachable and flushed the rest with the rest of the diesel. Cleaned the contact surface all around ready to receive gasket/cover. Let me know, I'd love to slap that puppy on this weekend and let it bathe in oil for the rest of the summer....:wink:

07-09-2010, 11:40 PM
Safety wires on the ring gear bolts all intact/secure?
Use a good thread sealant on the diff cover bolts.
Check the cover plate mating surfaces for burrs, weld spatter, etc.

When and if you go for a set of left-hand drill bits, buy them in 'screw machine' length. Less flex and improved access in tight quarters.

07-10-2010, 06:39 AM
It's coming right along !

You might want to make sure the pinion gear bearings seem tight.

If the 'wings' on your new fan cover much of the radiator; drill some holes in it.

I've had it with the heat. I'm out of parts at the moment and out of things to paint. It's a dangerous situation: I might take something else apart :yum:

07-11-2010, 05:22 AM
I agree with you for the heat. I took my telebars and tins (foot rests and drive shaft cover) into the garage early yesterday. Used a wire brush to remove the rust and painted 3 coats, like everything else... Dangerous times indeed.
I'm not sure about the pinion bearings (there must be two). I did clean and grease both U-joints and with the drive shaft off, there is no LR/UD movement but there is a small slack when you turn CCW to CW like on an old lathe when you have to turn the handle a full turn before the cutter starts to move back. This seems to be more the sum of all the free play in the diff gears and unless you say otherwise, seems normal.

125 - check everything mentionned --> OK Any suggestions on the thread sealer? The nitrile gasket is pretty tight on the bolts but I understand the need for a sealant in the threads since any seapage would go directly into the diff oil. I've been using "super black" gasket maker in the past but I don't think this is it's application. Maybe I'll ask the girl at the bolt store:wub:.

07-12-2010, 11:00 PM
I use Permatex "high tack", comes in a can, with a brush.
I tend to paint most gasketed surfaces with this stuff, as it seals without permanently bonding the gasket to the metal. E.G., permits future re-use of float bowl gaskets.

What was the original application for your radiator?

07-12-2010, 11:57 PM
125a - I used the "ultra black" gasket maker with a Q-tip in each bolt hole. The nitrile gasket was so warm, it was sticky (JK). So far so good. I think I'll do a test with water to see if it leaks into the bottom of the case before I put the gaz tank back. That way, if it does leak, I'll try your method for sure. As for the radiator, it was in a friend/farmer's barn and had been there for a while. He wanted 20, I said 10 and it was settled. I have no idea what it came off of, but it works on 12VDC and should fit nicely under my rad (or maybe on top, haven't quite figured that one out yet. Guess I'll decide once the engine cowling is back on the SW).

Snowtrac Nome
07-13-2010, 12:15 PM
on your bolts use a product called leak lock works as low strength thread locker and a sealer also can be used as a gasket sealer .

07-16-2010, 09:00 PM
It's been a quiet week on FF in the snow cat area! I guess it's been hot all over, like really hot! You don't really want to work or take pictures when it's that hot. But tonite, I forced myself to take pics of the work I did this week (so little, but every baby step forward is one step closer to a running SW-48).

Pic #1 -- reinstalled engine covers and rad for mock up. Notice the interior color, called pistachio. I like it, kinda looks like the interior of the M113.

Pic #2 -- to get better seal on the engine covers, welded some brackets to fit over the lip on the hull. Works OK, but if I had to redo, would make the offset bigger, like 1/2" instead of 1/4".

Pic #3 -- with some scrap stainless steel, went to the airport machine shop (got a free pass this week) and used the shear and the brake to bend the plate to replace the rusted and messed up drive shaft cover. Notice also fresh coat of paint inside the drivers habitacle. Also, just because I could, made a new clutch pedal with checker plate aluminum. Think I'll do the same for the accelerator. Still have to make the new foot rest on the accelerator side, when I sand blasted it, it just fell off :unsure:.

Pic #4 -- cleaned the transmission, flushed it, and refilled it. You can see how either it's not the original tranny or someone broke the supports for it and welded some on the bell housing. I also cleaned all the swamp crap from the bottom pan.

Pic #5 -- doesn't look like much, but I couldn't adjust the clutch last year so while everything is open, tried again (much easier without gloves and parka). Couldn't get a good clutch adjustment (was testing it with tranny in gear and trying to turn the drive shaft while the pedal was pushed down). Finally remove the connecting rod to find it was used and a bit too long. Solution, cut it, thread it and reconnect with 1/4' plate steel. Now I have an adjustment if ever it starts to not disengage the motor again.

Pic #6 -- a good shot showing the gasket (nitrile 1/8") used to seal the cover of the differential. I liked the stuff so much, went a bought more to do the two sprocket "flower pots". Dude is selling me his scraps at 1/2 price so I guess it ain't too bad. For those in the Ottawa area, it's Hydro Silica Gasket Cutting at the corner of Innes and Bantree but on Newmarket. Great place for all gasket materials. Just down the road, Ottawa clutch and brake, great place for reshoeing anything.

I hope this puts everyone in a posting mood, even in this intense heat. I can't complain, at least we're having a summer this year. The last three have been just rain, rain, and more rain.

Oh, and I didn't take pics, but I punched two more length of conveyor belting (I'm not rich enough to buy it already punched) to get ready for track #2. I'm so glad my wife is busy with work in the evenings and the kids are playing with their friends, leaves me all the "cool" time to work on my baby. I already have two contracts for plowing next winter. This has to work, otherwise, I'll be doing it with the snow blower...ouch.

07-16-2010, 09:07 PM
Hmm, a week is a long time not to post anything when you're actively working on your snow machine. I also took apart and cleaned both U-Joints, regreased and also topped up the drive shaft. Doesn't look like an original, but what is on this machine??? Had to replace spacer (were just washers under the protection bar) with 1/4" plate. Works fine for me :brows:. That plate in the shape of an upside down U was also found in the Lynx (Don if you know the designation number I don't remember) like the M113, but with the engine (diesel V6) in the back, drive shaft went through the driver's/crew commander/observer compartment with the diff in the front. If ever one of the u-joint gives, this prevents the drive shaft from making hamburger out of your legs....:doh:

Snowtrac Nome
07-17-2010, 03:17 AM
Brother you are doing a great job keepupn the good work

07-17-2010, 05:29 AM
You've been busy !!

I really like the protector over the drive shaft. Your clutch pedal is cool, too.

Someone has cut slots in your foot rests !

07-21-2010, 10:02 PM
Don - Thanks to you, I keep on going. :flowers:

Pixie - Thank you too. If it weren't for you and that thread with your J5 rebuild, I would be lost! The slots cut out of the floor boards was me. I never managed to remove the pedals, they were so rusted that they wouldn't unscrew. I think I'll leave it like that for now...

Hey, tonite is a Molson night! I removed the last 4 grousers from the 2nd track! It is now completely disassembled.:clap:

In a previous post, I was asked how to remove the bolts that are under the tire guides (I did 8 of them tonite). I snapped some pics, might help someone down the line...

Pic #1 -- center punch the bolt on the grouser side;

Pic #2 -- drill a pilot hole with a small drill bit deep enough to go past the nut;

Pic #3 -- drill with a drill bit the same size as your bolt (mine is 3/8");

Pic #4 -- that's whats left of the bolt when finished.:shifty:

Lucky for me, I have silent/distant partners this week working on their snow cats posting pics too! Hats off to you, ladies and gentlemen for spending time in the summer so we can have fun in the winter.....

:letitsnow: ...Well maybe not just yet...hahaha

08-08-2010, 09:32 PM
Wow, last night of a 2 week holiday. Been lurkin' almost everyday and putting in my 2cents in where I could. Decided not to work on the SW during the vacation, but just before leaving, I did a bit of work and snapped some pics. Figured I should share:

Pic 1: Getting ready to retrack!:w00t2:

Pic 2: Convenient way to move a trackless track vehicule...notice the snow tire. So that's what they're for...:brows:

I thought I had more pics than that...oops. Well, today, yes Sunday, I jumped on the SW because I did a boo-boo when I reinstalled the manifold. I had coolant fluid filling up my manifold, pissin' from the engine studs, two in particular (see posts above where easy-outs were used). The old guy at NAPA sold me some good blue stuff to put on the studs to seal the hole (fall right into the water jacket on almost all studs). 3 hours later, manifold reinstalled, engine test --> success!
I then proceeded to complete the track reassembly (6 bolts where the rubber is double didn't have nuts). Did a track tension and tightened all bolts on the walking beam.
Although I have no cab (and this is the picture I was hoping to have to show you tonite) I have the dash mounted with wooden 2X4s. Of course I took it for a spin once all this hard work was done. Didn't go too far, but managed to get a couple of "klicks" on my new tracks (yup, without a cab) and took it up to 55 Km/h (roughly 30 MPH) in third gear. It actually sped up in 3rd when I throttled, something it wouldn't do last winter (probably too much friction in the wheel bearing). Everything held together and worked great.
Side note, I added some SSteel plates to cover some of the holes in the wall that separates the transmission and the driver (under the seat). This helped a lot with the engine cooling (or was it the new coolant???) since it never went above 180F and I didn't have the heater connected to the coolant system. Blocking those holes (pretty big and not original for sure) and having the seat down got some good air circulation through the rad!

All in all, I'm a happy camper today and wanted to share. More pics and I'll try a movie too in the following days.

Snowtrac Nome
08-09-2010, 12:49 AM
you should be proud of your self you have put a lot of hard work in to that little thing and she is coming along right nicely.

08-09-2010, 05:59 AM
Congratulations on having it mostly back together and running strong !!! :clap:

I know it's been a long road with your tracks.....

08-11-2010, 08:27 PM
Well, as promissed, the video is at:
YouTube- ‪My SW-48‬‎

Wasn't sure how to embed... hope it works. If it doesn't, here are a few pics showing the dash held up by wooden 2X4s and a master switch to cut the batteries (or open the circuit) so the batteries won't drain if ever there was a short somewhere.

08-11-2010, 08:49 PM
Woo-Hoo :clap::clap::wow:

08-12-2010, 09:42 PM
Must be a good week, getting a lot done.

Let's see, yesterday apart from making a video with the little one, fixed the fuel line, added a 2nd filter before the pump, replaced hydraulic filter, repaired leaking fuel pump, tightened both valve covers (guess the gasket shrunk a bit???) and tightened the tracks (looks like I'll have to do it again, book say 1-2 inches above the front wheel).

Today, painted all the tins around the engine, then started to sandblast the cab after removing the last two windows (windshield and rear window). I had already started but since I'm doing all this work outside, bare metal just starts to rust with the morning humidity, even under tarps, so I'm priming as I go along. The welder was for plugging all the unnecessary holes (about 12 of them). Will have to add some sheet metal to the top of the cab, it's so thin that I can't plug the holes with the MIG. Unless you're 7ft tall, you'll never look up there, so a patch seems like the right solution.

Pics 1,2,and 3 sandblasting and priming the cab (third pic is a spoiler for the 4th);
Pic 4 did a little bit of what I hate, some paint!:brows: Gotta love that fan...sure looks purrrrty when it's turnin' fast!

J5 Bombardier
08-13-2010, 07:23 AM
Looking good Benz9,your on track for this winter. Big improvement from the machine you brought home at the start of this thread ! Did you find any original Bombardier {bondo} when you blasted that cab?
J5 Bombardier

Snowtrac Nome
08-13-2010, 03:07 PM
looking good don't do like weatherby and get it all fixed up and sell it kind of think i would like some thing like that with a blower head my snow drift's in around here and gets too hard for a plow.

08-14-2010, 07:13 AM
J5B - Yes, I'm finding a lot of Bondo under the paint. Lucky for me, the girlfriend is somewhat of a Bondo veteran, and she offered to redo the cab for me.:glare:hmmmm, I wonder what she wants now???

Don - I enjoyed Weatherby's thread and salute him for all the research and original parts to "really" restore the machine to original. I have sent an e-mail to the curator of the Bombardier museum asking about the black stripe on the side of a lot of '70s snow cats. In the e-mail I said that my machine was not museum quality restoration, but even if I use it for work, how can I paint it to match closest to what it was in the era. He's on holidays, so I'll get my answer at the end of August.

Sandblasting / Priming / Painting (Bondo goes in there somewhere after priming) is so far the most boring job of all. I am not cut out to be a bodyworker. I'd rather replace all the bearings on 5 Muskegs than do this again, but it must be done and it's almost done. 80% of the cab exterior is primed on bare metal. Interior is different, nose part was painted with tar paint and there is no rust there, so I'm leaving that as is, 2 doors are primed and painted, so just waiting for the exterior to be done and then I'll flip the cab to finish inside. All that will be left when the paint is done is the hydraulics, there are a few hoses I want to replace before putting the cab on. Then I'll be ready for winter. Yeah!

08-14-2010, 07:16 AM
By the way, like the Aktiv Snow Trak/Master stickers files, does anyone have the Bombardier single sprocket logo in a good resolution (like the one at the bottom of my post, but larger and clearer)? I may have someone to do the decals for me but I need a better image. I've asked the curator but he's on holidays...

J5 Bombardier
08-14-2010, 08:15 AM
By the way, like the Aktiv Snow Trak/Master stickers files, does anyone have the Bombardier single sprocket logo in a good resolution (like the one at the bottom of my post, but larger and clearer)? I may have someone to do the decals for me but I need a better image. I've asked the curator but he's on holidays...

Benz9, was the original stripe painted on or was it a decal ? Here's a site you might want to look at www.stickers-snowboard.com
J5 Bombardier

the old trucker
08-14-2010, 09:04 AM
By the way, like the Aktiv Snow Trak/Master stickers files, does anyone have the Bombardier single sprocket logo in a good resolution (like the one at the bottom of my post, but larger and clearer)? I may have someone to do the decals for me but I need a better image. I've asked the curator but he's on holidays...

If you go to a good place that does the decals, they should be able to do exactly what you want.

Snowtrac Nome
08-14-2010, 03:18 PM
if you can take a rubbing of the origional decals on a machine tht still has them most sighn shops can duplicate them for you here in alaska i use warning lights of alaska they made up the sticker pakage for my old john deere cyclone 440

the old trucker
08-17-2010, 04:44 PM
Benz9 would you or any other member know if the top half of the door on the SW 48 is the same shape as on the B12 ?? If it is, I will pickup 2 at Marcelle Houles. I want to put sliding windows in my b12. Thanks

The Old Trucker

08-18-2010, 06:09 AM
OT, that is a question that I must answer with an "I don't know".

As much as I would love to have a B7 or a B12 in my yard to restore and drive around with, appart from the free manual available on this forum, that and youtube and the museum are the closest I've gotten to them. I don't know how far of a trip it is for you to go see M. Houle's scrap yard, but I will be there on Sep. 3-4-5 for the Festival de la Poutine. Maybe I can swing by and check for you??? Let me know.

the old trucker
08-18-2010, 08:30 AM
OT, that is a question that I must answer with an "I don't know".

As much as I would love to have a B7 or a B12 in my yard to restore and drive around with, appart from the free manual available on this forum, that and youtube and the museum are the closest I've gotten to them. I don't know how far of a trip it is for you to go see M. Houle's scrap yard, but I will be there on Sep. 3-4-5 for the Festival de la Poutine. Maybe I can swing by and check for you??? Let me know.

I'd greatly appreciate that if it's not too much out of your way. Houles is close to 900 miles west of me, plus a $ 400.00 return boat ride.
I could get one of my trucking friends to pick them up for me.

08-18-2010, 09:48 AM
Ok, I'll do that and take pictures. Back to you after labor day!

09-02-2010, 12:39 PM
Well, back from holidays, and got a few updates to post on my SW-48. After sandblasting all the rust off the cab, I primed it and gave it one coat of yellow. All my friends and family all said the same thing, I should do the Bondo putty stuff to make it look good. My wife was supposed to do it but she got caught up with work (as always) and didn't have time. I'm no expert, but I'll give anything a try.

Pic 1 - My attempt at Bondo. The door is primed with Tremclad gray primer, the rest of the cab is painted with 1 coat of Tremclad yellow. Bondo is on it's second coat in this picture.

Pic 2 - Some of the cab was repairable but there were holes everywhere. I filled most of them with the MIG welder but the top of the cab was just too thin and had too many holes to try and fix. I used some of that stainless steel I got from the job to patch what IMO was scrap.

Pic 3 - Got me some new hydraulic hoses. This is the feed from the tank to the pump. It used to be that red air hose crap. I've had to redirect and run the hose external since it's much more rigid than the other stuff. Gave me a chance to empty and clean the tank and refill with new hydraulic fluid.

Pic 4 - New return hose from last valve to filter, the hose between valves is also new and the two hoses for the external plugs (winch) are also new. That make about half the hoses replaced. The next ones to be replaced are the 4 for the front plow and the high pressure feed from the pump. That will make all 30+ year old hoses replaced with new stuff.

Pic 5 - I also purchased two new gauges, fuel and volts. The fuel gauge actually works correctly now, and is more accurate than I thought. Volts was just so I could get them all the same with the back lights connected to the front headlight switch. I'm not going to touch the hours meter (unless I replace the engine with a brand new one...hahaha).

The white stuff is coming soon. I don't know about the rest of you out there, but here, the leaves in the trees are already starting to change colors. I just need to finish the cab and the hydraulics and I should be good for the winter.

09-02-2010, 06:57 PM
machine is looking good, here is some advice on your primer, I found out the hard way that if you use tremclad primer, use tremclad paint to finish, I used tremclad on one machine to cover some bare metal, when I went to paint with reg automotive paint, got a reaction to tremclad and had to stip off all paint and start over

09-03-2010, 02:48 PM
Mr F, of course I'm using Tremclad, on everything!

This last gallon I bought of Gloss Yellow is such a close match to the original paint that I didn't even bother asking to have it mixed. This is the first coat exterior, will give it another two over the long weekend. Should be able to complete the interior next week and I just need to complete the installation of the new hydraulic hoses before I drop the cab back on the SW-48.

If Sylvain is lurking, I'll be calling you soon for the logos. The museum sent me a photoshop file of the original 1973 logo and the original SW-48 that was printed in the black bar all around the cab. They were also nice enough to send me a picture of an SW-48 of the era to show how they were stripped.

So, Pic 1, 1st coat of yellow! Pic 2, image from the museum of a 1973 SW-48.

09-03-2010, 05:40 PM
WOW !!! Looking great !

I'm a Rust-o-leum girl. We don't have Tremclad.

I'd love to get the original style decals also. Would that be possible ?

09-06-2010, 01:35 PM
Just let me know where to send it...

(Doc, is there a place to dump a .psd file containing the first Bombardier sprocket logo???)

09-08-2010, 06:37 PM
Moving right along, I think I've got the exterior done, now I'll concentrate on the interior. Here is a pic:

Pic 1 - Where I was at this morning. I've actually added 2 more front lights on the top light bar since. It's so much easier to work on the SW-48 in the warm weather (my garage is full of tools, no room to work on vehicles), so I took all the wires apart and soldered them all, then covered in heat shrink tubing, then with a protective plastic wire cover and finally, a double coat of exterior vinyl tape.

Pic 2 - with the new light bar arrangement. Lights are on special at Princess Auto for 6 bucks a pop.

While I was at the Poutine festival last weekend, found a used sprocket on Kijiji in Sherbrooke and picked it up. Can't beat that price...50$.

Also, Old Trucker, do you want me to post pics here from Marcel Houles yard or do you want me to wait until you make your measurements?

the old trucker
09-08-2010, 06:52 PM
Benz you can post the pics here if you like. I haven't had a chance to get the measurements. I will get & post them here tomorrow. Thanks.

Looking at the pics you posted today, I think it will be pretty close.


the old trucker
09-09-2010, 08:41 PM
Benz here are the measurements of the window opening on my door. The red line is the window opening & the blue lines are the sizes.
The top blue line is 15" accross
The bottom blue line is 15" plus 7" for a total of 22" accross & is 1 1/2" above the bottom red line.
The left vertical blue line is 12 1/4" total & is 1 1/2 " inside the red line.
The right vertical blue line is 10" from top to bottom.
You should end up with a 10" x 15" box in the center.


The middle pic is of the outside & the bottom pic is of the inside. Whatta ya think ????
This ol' trucker awaits you decision...




09-10-2010, 10:12 AM
Old Trucker,
I think you're out of luck, or maybe with a slight modification, you might be able to fit them in. Using your drawing as a guide, I measured the following:

Top blue line 17"
Bottom blue line 17" + 7" = total of 24"
Both my vertical lines are 12 1/2"

Like I said, you may have to cut into the door a little to make it fit. Also, be advised that they don't slide all the way open, only half way. Most of the warm days last winter (for me, that's anything above -10C), I had both doors open and used a ratchet strap to hold them open because it was just too hot in there. Your crew compartment is a little bigger and you might need that little opening to keep the heat in.

Best of luck to you (it must be hard to find parts on the island) and hope to see you in St-Raymond some day.

the old trucker
09-10-2010, 04:20 PM
Thanks for the info. I think it may fit. My door is made up of 3/4 x 3/4 angle around the outer edge with 24 gauge skin over it. When I re skin the door & I'm ready for the window frame, I can drop it down 1 1/4" & add an inch on the sides. Your window is straight on top & bottom.


09-10-2010, 07:40 PM
Allright, another week is ended and all is nice here in the nations capitol. The sun is out after a weeks worth of duck weather, the wife is off doing the "reserves" this weekend and the kids all have activities. Looks like I'll be working on my "tracks" this weekend.

I mentioned the logo in a previous post and yesterday, I went to a decal shop and had 3 made up. I think it looks pretty nice (pic 1, 2, 3). Opinions?

Oh yeah, also worked on the winch in the garage this week since mother nature was favoring amphibious creatures over humans. It still doesn't have any wire/rope in the spool, but it works and it's removable. Now I gotta find a way to mount it on the front...(a project for next year)

09-10-2010, 08:09 PM

WooHoo !!! Looking like brand new :clap:

09-10-2010, 08:18 PM
Got it looking good. Soon time to put it to work.:clap:

Snowtrac Nome
09-12-2010, 01:26 AM
looking good i found an engine last weekend for you it was a chrysler industreal hemmi i will post pics of the motor when i get back from hunting

Snowtrac Nome
09-14-2010, 08:38 PM
benz-9 thank you for the syurp i will refill the box with some jelly for you nd get it back out let'ssee how long it will take to get back accross the border. can't wait to mix up some blue berry pancakes and put that syurp on it so i can take a picture of it for Big Al. thanl=k you Benz-9

09-14-2010, 09:39 PM
Great colors! Looks like new!

The colors remind me of this one, seen last weekend in Swiss military museum (1st time open to public)...


Yeah, its a Ski-Doo (ie. Bombardier), but not a snowcat - but colors are still very eye catching! Yellow isn't that common to see in a snowcat.

09-15-2010, 07:29 AM
Actually, SISU, most bombardier "snow cats" are yellow and black, it's the company's trademark, like Aktiv was red, Tucker's are orange. Since they are made here in Canada, most of the trail groomers that we can see are all yellow (in my neck of the woods anyways, sorry Groomer guy, no Lamtracks here). But you're right, that cab has been sitting in front of my garage for 6 weeks now and I've had people stop and ask me if it's a sea-doo, a ski-doo, a tractor, etc... Then I point to the hull with the motor, tracks and blade and they all get it right away.

Don, for some reason I was sure that you wouldn't get it since the Post Office has agreed to refund me the full amount plus the declared amount of merchandise. I wish I'd said it was gold and declared much more... hahaha. Take pics for the little one too, she's real happy you got it. Now I just have to explain to a french speaking little one what Muleman's avatar says...:-)

Snowtrac Nome
09-15-2010, 01:24 PM
well we got it kids loved it on their waffles wife is digging out some different jam's for you today i think the blue berry is the best and we will see how long it takes to get back to you my only fear is the cargo some times goes out of here on nonpressureized aircrafts and all our jellys are vaccuum packed in bottles. thanks.

09-22-2010, 02:34 PM
That looks nice. You need a salt spreader to go on the back - hint, hint. At this point I will sell mine for a handshake. Syracuse, NY.

09-23-2010, 06:01 AM
Don, as of today, still nothing in the mail. But it's only been 8 days and it took almost 20 for the syrup to get there...

blystons - I think your salt spreader has been up for sale for a while... If it wasn't so far, I would go shake your hand, sir. Apparently, we can pass this off as farming equipment with next to no custom fees. Very interesting...You've certainly made a tempting offer that I'm seriously considering. I'll get back to you later this week...

A few pics of last weekends work:

Pic 1 - gone yellow crazy after seeing J5B's machine. Sorry guy, your's looked so nice, I wanted mine to look the same.
Pic 2 - It was done once, and Weatherbys posted pictures inspired me to do better, so this is the before pic.
Pic 3 & 4 - Found some checker plate foam carpeting and thought it would be nice for wall covering. Turned out pretty good.
Pic 5 - After many hours of cutting, soldering, redoing and re-redoing, this is the best I could come up with. Not as cool and nice as Weatherby's but better than it was.
Pic 6 - dash completed, with two new additions to plug the holes for the original key and starter buttons. Added a cigarette lighter (no, I didn't start smoking, it's for the 12V output) and a horn button. I installed the horn late Sunday after the pictures were taken but it works! Almost done.

The cab is now back on the hull, thanks to my neighbors hunting buddies. Will have pics in the next post.

I've moved the plow close to the garage and started removing all the paint and rust. It's been fixed a few time with not-so-standard parts. It works, so I guess I'll just paint and reinstall. Again, this was done late Sunday, so pic to come.

09-23-2010, 09:52 AM

While I'd love to get a few bucks for the salt spreader, I'd like to get it out of the way even more so the price stands at free, pickup only. It is in very nice shape, color matched to your sw48!!

If you are in Ottowa, you are only about two hours away. Heck, I've got a front loader - if you have a truck or trailer, you'd only lose a morning! Plus you get to see my sw48 as a bonus. I can do weekdays or weekends.

Keep it in mind and feel free to pass the offer to others in the great north. Not much market for them here.

Regardless, keep your pics coming. You do nice work.

09-23-2010, 04:23 PM
Well, apart from the plow that's being repainted (that's all I'm doing), the rest is done. Just put on the last hydraulic fitting today on the winch and tested, no leaks. So here are the pics:

09-23-2010, 04:28 PM
blystons - Ok, google mapped Ottawa to Syracuse and it's 3.5h (straight down I-81). I'll check with customs first to see how to carry this over the border and I'll PM you with the results.

09-23-2010, 04:57 PM
come a long way from what you brought home

09-23-2010, 06:55 PM
Sw48 looks great!!!
Hey Blystons------If Benz does not want the spreader, let me know. I am only over in Albany, NY. I was going to contact you anyway to see if you still had the spreader for sale!! For $$$!! I seem to collect Bombardiers!! I could use it. Just let me know if it does not work out with Benz!!! I was snoozing on this!!!!:sad:

Snowtrac Nome
09-23-2010, 07:01 PM
come a long way from what you brought home

looking pretty good i will light a fire under mama's back side as soon as she digs the bottles out from hiding i will get it boxed and mailed.

09-23-2010, 07:35 PM
Thank you all for the great comments, it's been a long haul, ready for doing work on the house now.

I'm afraid I won't have the proper documents in time for crossing the border, so NorthEastheavy, if you want to deal with blystons, you have my blessings. I've gotta order that passport for my trip to see Don...:brows:

J5 Bombardier
09-23-2010, 08:01 PM
:smile:Nice job Benz9 ! Definitely not the machine you first brought home. Don't pray to the snow gods just yet, some of us aren't quite ready to roll.
J5 Bombardier

09-23-2010, 08:31 PM
Looks great, Benz :clap::clap:

You should be proud of all your work :smile:

09-24-2010, 05:25 PM
Benz9.....:clap: You did a very nice job, I hope your very proud of your accomplishment, It's not easy to do what you and some of the other Forum members have done to these old cats.....GREAT JOB:thumb:

09-24-2010, 06:06 PM
Damn, there's so much yellow in these pics my monitor starts attracting bees! :D

11-23-2010, 09:36 AM
if your still looking for belting or track parts give me a call. 1-888-797-8799 ext 242