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BigAl
02-23-2006, 07:39 PM
Ok Snow trac owners ! I got my head out of my A## . Boy was ever stuck. Anyway got the first pictures taken of the KT7 before restoration . I got off all the extra hyd. lines and valves that the snow grooming club had added . I now have enough old hyd lines to circle the world !
Tomorrow the center roof section comes off and then the fun begins !!! Oh Boy !!!!!
The engine runs strong and I see no reason to pull it . Going to take it as far as I can before removing tracks .
Big Al

BigAl
02-23-2006, 07:39 PM
Ok Snow trac owners ! I got my head out of my A## . Boy was ever stuck. Anyway got the first pictures taken of the KT7 before restoration . I got off all the extra hyd. lines and valves that the snow grooming club had added . I now have enough old hyd lines to circle the world !
Tomorrow the center roof section comes off and then the fun begins !!! Oh Boy !!!!!
The engine runs strong and I see no reason to pull it . Going to take it as far as I can before removing tracks .
Big Al

Snowcat Operations
02-23-2006, 09:46 PM
Very Nice!

Tommo
02-24-2006, 03:06 AM
Al, i like the shape of this particular Kristi!:thumb: It looks better than the early ones you put on the forum. I didn't know there was a choice! How many Kristi variants are there, and when was the company last trading?

Nice picture Al. :applause:

BigAl
02-24-2006, 03:47 AM
Hi Tommo ,

This model never went into production . There were 4 KT7 proto types made from what I have been told . #1 was a steel body and to heavy . #2,#3, seem to be lost and no ones no where . This is #4 and the only one I know of . It is powered by a 4cyl Ford and is all hydrostatic drive .The body is hand laid fiberglass
Kristi started out with the KT2 ,then a KT3 ,then a KT4 , then a proto type KWT was made and is sitting in a container in Denver, Co . It looks like a 1964 chevy pickup on tracks . It has two drive systems and can have the tracks removed and run down the road in summer . I have put in a standing offer to buy it .
Last came the best of all . A "KT7" which is in the picture . Kristi put every idea they had learned from the prior models into the KT7 .It never made production as the company owner was killed and so died the company .This would have been about 1972 ,I believe .
It was a small company and you could pretty much order any style body design you wanted . Hope this information helps . There are Kristi's in Europe ,but the trouble is finding one . Over here in the states they come up quite often for sale . On the 28th of this month ,there is a KT2 going to auction in Canada .
Allen

BigAl
02-24-2006, 04:50 AM
Here are 3 more photos. They are taken from the rear of the unit . The last picture shows the rear seats . They face backwards . The center area has a storage shelf/engine cover (48"x48") which is not installed and is in the shop. Kristi has it listed as a 6 passenger unit ,but I am unsure how or where the other two seats were to be installed ?????
Big Al

Melensdad
02-24-2006, 06:11 AM
How long is that thing? I thought it would be bigger. I remember seeing other photos and you shared a brochure with me once. But I had nothing to scale it to. But since you wrote in another thread that the width is a bit over 8' then I'm guessing it is 12 to 14 long?

Does it only seat 4?

BigAl
02-24-2006, 12:00 PM
Good moring Bob ,

Yes it currently seats four . Someplace I have information that says it is a 6 seater ,but as I have already stated I do not know where they would put two more seats . There is a ton of room between the front and back seats ,over the engine housing and I suppose two to four more seats could go there ,but headroom would be limited .
I will have to measure it ,but I believe the KT7 is about 13 feet long . I know track width is 8 feet +.
Big Al

BigAl
02-24-2006, 08:08 PM
Today I removed the front seats , entry door, front side windows and front cab section . I now know why it is called a proto type . Once I got inspection covers off, you could see where different components had ,at one time been installed . There are items tack welded in place and then bolted down ,like the builders were trying different placement before drilling holes.

The center roof section is completely rotted and will need replacment . I hope to find a large piece of polished Aluminium ,so I can have it bent into a one piece cover and set it up with quick disconnect fasters ,so the center section can be removed easily to access the engine compartment .
I am now sure that the linkage steering cables are not orginal or were a temporary fix as they are too short for proper routing.
Once I get the added hydraulic tank removed (the big white tank in the last picture ) the engine compartment should be much easier to navigate .

The wiring system ,while repaired and working is a complete mess and will get replaced with a one piece loom . Engine choke and throttle control cables will be moved from engine firewall to the main operator control panel .
The cab heater has been added under the operators feet and it will be moved to the center section to vent heat front and rear and to allow more leg room for the operator .
Going to head to the car dismantler to see if I can find a small van seat to replace the two buckets in front . Seems like this would work better than the present system .

Melensdad
02-24-2006, 09:39 PM
While you have it apart, are you giving any thought to a coating that might be applied to the interior to not only insulate it but also improve the looks? From the photos it looks like the interior is raw fiberglass?

Bummer about the rotted center cover! How is the frame underneath? Or have you seen that yet?

I know on my Snow Trac the prior owner saved me a bunch of trouble by completely rebuilding the steel underframe with new steel.

BigAl
02-24-2006, 10:08 PM
Hi Bob ,

Yes, it will be given a 1st class interior . Marine carpeted floors, Insulated covered walls ,Sound proofing in the motor compartment , Sun roof , mini bar in the back and more . I am still looking at my options .The steel frame looks good from what I can see . I should know more over the weekend .
I think we are headed down to the big city tomorrow to look at and start ordering replacement parts , radios, additional lights and goodies . The first thing I order is a "remote oil filter set-up" for the engine !!! There is NO Way , this old fart is going to stand on his head to change oil !
There had been a roof rack over the center section that was removed . Water leaked in through the mounting holes and delaminated the fiberglass covered plywood roof !
I am going to stop off at the LineX dealer and see what he would charge to shoot the bottom half of the body . I am hoping I can add color to the lineX to give it the same copper color design as my King Ranch Ford truck .
I kinda thought that the center roof section would end up needing replacement , as it had a big dip in the center .
Al

BigAl
02-25-2006, 08:30 PM
Didn't get anything done . Ended up grading my buddies road . First time on a new 210 John Deere4x4 . Wow ! Nice machine .

Anywhere ,My Buddy owns a metal shop and told me a Polished Alum center roof section for the snowcat was doable :thumb: !!! Can be bent and made in one piece of Alum so there will be no seams . Going to get some cost for material on Monday .
Can anyone see why I would not want to go this way ????? I think it is a easy fix ,but maybe I am missing something ???????
Al

Melensdad
02-26-2006, 08:00 AM
. . . a Polished Alum center roof section for the snowcat was doable . . . Can anyone see why I would not want to go this way . . .
Al
Glare?
Scratches?

Just my opinion but it strikes me that polished aluminum is going to be like a mirror and reflect a lot of light, I'm not sure how desireable that is.

The main issue I would have is the susceptability to tree scratches that a polished body panel would inherantly have. I've driven through trees with him where the branches scraped along the side windows. I'd presume most folks would face that situation from time to time. A polished surface will show every scratch. Have you considered a 'brushed' surface? It would have a dull finish and hide scratches better. Or a painted surface?

BigAl
02-26-2006, 08:24 PM
Glare?
Scratches?

Just my opinion but it strikes me that polished aluminum is going to be like a mirror and reflect a lot of light, I'm not sure how desireable that is.

The main issue I would have is the susceptability to tree scratches that a polished body panel would inherantly have. I've driven through trees with him where the branches scraped along the side windows. I'd presume most folks would face that situation from time to time. A polished surface will show every scratch. Have you considered a 'brushed' surface? It would have a dull finish and hide scratches better. Or a painted surface?


Bob,
Those are some points to consider .thanks


Today the rear cab section came off as well as the seats , gas tank and windows . I am glad I am going all the way through this as the gas tank was just sitting in a support tray under the seats . No hold down brackets of any kind ! Geez!
Found about 1/4 inch of muck and grease on the floor after I got everything pulled . I doubt if the engine oil has ever been changed in the motor . Kristi did not leave any way to get to the oil plug !!! All kinds of old hoses and tools laying down underneath the engine ! I am going to rig up some kind of a oil drain system with a remote shut off valve.
The added metal supports for towing snow grooming implements is cracked in half .
Hydraulic filter is going to get relocated to clean up the engine compartment.
I found out today the big white hydraulic tank that sits on top of the engine is part of the orginal system . Good Grief !!! It looks like it belongs in a "Maytag wash machine" more than a snow cat . Need to see if I can relocate that puppy . The way it is there is absolutley no way to drain Hydraulic oil without giving engine a bath . Maybe this is where all the oil crap in the bottom came from !
I am beginning to think electrical wiring was redone at one time . Wires go in every direction with no thought to what they are crossing .
Still having a good time ! Here are two more pictures with the rear section removed .
Al

Snowcat Operations
02-27-2006, 11:19 AM
WOW someone has been busy! What a great start BigAl. When you get you engine all done and broke in (is it getting rebuilt?) I would use Amsoil remote mount dual oil filtration system. You will only need to chage your oil and filters once a year. Actually only the filters and just replentish the oil that was in the old filters.

BigAl
02-27-2006, 11:59 AM
WOW someone has been busy! What a great start BigAl. When you get you engine all done and broke in (is it getting rebuilt?) I would use Amsoil remote mount dual oil filtration system. You will only need to chage your oil and filters once a year. Actually only the filters and just replentish the oil that was in the old filters.

Good Morning Mike ,
Yep! ,I been busy . I was wondering which oil remote filter system I should get . You like Amsoil huh??? The engine seems to run strong and I am undecided about pulling it . This oil plug thing has got me a little bugged . There is no way they would have changed oil through the plug ,so how did they do it ??? If it never was changed , how many engine hours are on it ??? Maybe it already is Amsoil ??? Too many question for this early in the morning ....
Looks like I will be sending in a oil sample to Cat get the results on it and pull another compression check on it .
Big Al

BigAl
02-28-2006, 09:24 PM
Ok!!! The upper half of the cab is all off . HAPPY DAYS!!!!:coolshade
The radiator which is out of a 1965 ford mustang looks like it was used to store grease in the fins . What a mess ! No Way it could have cooled like that .The Radiator brackets are broke and the support frame was never welded in place ! The only thing holding the radiator from going through the fan was the air intake box ! I am going to look at some aftermarket cooling fans to replace the engine driven fan that is now in place . I once owned a Radiator shop so now all that expertize going to be put to use .
Starting to get a pretty good pile of crap and old parts !!!

On a good note I found a very small access floor plate to get to the engine oil plug . That makes me feel better .
Grease is everywhere and tomorrow it should get pulled out and given a good degreasing and a pressure wash .
Found 4 really nice new "hi back" boat bucket seats on Ebay that I hope to win to install back in with the new interior .
Cut the tracks off to ease in moving . Started a separate thread on this .
The track shock system is pretty slick . The lift rams are mounted on coil springs to help ease any sudden force put on the rams .
Big Al:tiphat:

BigAl
03-01-2006, 09:03 PM
Ok ,I got an early start today after insulting a few Snow Trac owners over my morning coffee .:coolshade Dragged out the old pressure washer and a gallon of degreaser and went to work . 6 hours later the grease was gone on the Kristi but was now all over me ! I actually think I can move better all greased up !

I did make some disappointing discoveries . At one time the old Kristi must have ran over a really big stump or rock . There are 3 major cracks/ holes in the "fiberglass" plywood reinforced floor where something hit it hard :pat: !!These are not stress cracks ,but some kind of exterior caused damage . The motor will have to come out to fix these as well as the whole ladder frame assembly . When I am through the Kristi is going to be completely torn apart .
I did not even waste my time Comp checking the engine as it is coming out anyway . I will get it on a engine stand and go through it .
The "shop built implement towing system" appears to have cause a lot of damage to the rear of the frame. I will need to cut this all out and repair it correctly . I think it is a good idea to have a pintle hook in the back of the Kristi ,but only if it can be secured correctly and not break the ladder frame .
I took about a ton of pictures to aid in reassembly but will wait to post them at a later date .
Gentlemen ... I do believe it is "Miller Time" :drink: .
Big Al

BigAl
03-02-2006, 10:37 PM
Ok ,

I spent the day removing the operator controls ,instrument Panel , lights, hydraulic tank ,heater and anything else I could take off .
Drew out a diagram of the Hydrualic Hoses and where they attach . What a nightmare ! Hoses going everywhere ! I still think some are wrong but hydraulic's is my weakest area . When I get back to installing the hydraulics back into the Kristi I am going to trailer the whole rig to the hydraulic hose shop to make sure it is done correctly .
Tomorrow may see the engine coming out ! Suppose to snow heavy tonight and I may be plowing snow instead .

The one thing that keeps amazing me about this snowcat is how techically advanced some items are done and other things are just Rinky Dinked together !!! It is like the engineers got tired at some point in construction and just started to short cut the assembly !

On a good note , I picked up a complete motor manual on the Ford Industrial Motor as well as a complete "break down manuals" on the Funk Hydrostatic drives ! It won't help anybody but me , as this seems to be the only KT7 in existance .
Al

Snowcat Operations
03-03-2006, 01:07 AM
Man Al you sure have been busy. Keep up the great work!

BigAl
03-03-2006, 09:13 PM
Today I drew up another Hydraulic hose diagram , then another ,then another !!!Finally took about 3 million pictures from every angle I can think of ! Finally it hit me to treat the two systems as independent of each other and a light blub clicked on ! :pat: After that it was easy !!!


So then I sarted rippin,tearin, and removing every piece of hydraulic "ANYTHING" I could take out . All the hydraulics are out !

Unbolted the engine mounts,disconnected the muffler and got ready to pull the Ford motor with the Funk hydro static drive motors still attached .

Ok where is my Allen wrench set to undo the 2 drive shafts u joint set screws ???.... Hmmmm.:rolleyes: ...???? oh Crap! It's up in Idaho at the ranch !!!

So tomorrow I head to town to buy a Allen wrench set . While I am at it ,the wife and I are heading down to the flea market to see what other goodies I may find .
Hey Bogus Bob !!! I hear some guy there is hocking "cheap ass Coffee mugs" with a "Snow Trac logo" on them for 25 cents each ! Says he found them on the side of the road !! :moon: Might be fun for skeet shootin !!!

Big Al:coolshade

Snowcat Operations
03-03-2006, 09:25 PM
NEVER A DULL MOMENT!

BigAl
03-04-2006, 11:10 PM
Oh man what a day !

I go to town and I pick up my allen wrench set and $354 dollars of other stuff that I am sure I don't need but somehow ended up in my basket .Also put my 12 Snow Trac mugs in the gun case for the next time I go shoot skeet.
Headed for the shop to attack the motor removal . Took out the set screws on the u joints and grabbed the engine lift . Hooked up the lift chains and put a little tension on her . Hmmm .... need to slide the engine forward and pop the u joints off the spline shafts . Hey ???? whats this ??? Holy CRAP !!! Some idiot has welded the damn u joints on the other end of the spline shaft !!! Yelled to the wife ... HONEY !!! Make me a drink ! Her reply is "You don't Drink ????? My reply is "I do Now !!!
Ok I finally get the u joints loose and the motor is ready to pull . I start lifting and something falls off the motor ???? Holy CRAP!!! The upper motor mounts did not have any bolts in them !!! The motor was just sitting,wedged in the frame ! I yell to the house ... HONEY!!! make that drink a double !!!
So here I sit too intoxicated to work any more tonight and wishing I could find the dumb ass who did this to my Kristi .
Tomorrow if I can find my shop I plan on pulling the gear drive and track rails .
On another note I have invented a new drink !!! When you don't have much around to drink you make do with whatever you have . Anyone for a Rum and Dr. Pepper . I call it a Dr. Rum .

Yoo wee ! This room is spinning !
Big Al:drink:

Snowcat Operations
03-05-2006, 01:02 AM
This thread reminds me of that movie where the workers had to build 2000 cars in 3 days. Cant remember the name but the cars were missing quite a few essentail parts! Yup the Quality of the Kristi products shows through Al:yum: :moon: :D

That reminds me of another commercial: I could a had a "SNOW TRAC"!

I'll check on some local AA meetings for you BigAl. Sounds like to me your gonna need more than one Kind of Doctor:drink: to help you with this project.:D

Ouch! Man I'm feeling my oats tonight! Ahh I never liked the KKK anyway! (Kristi Klan Klub)

Av8r3400
03-05-2006, 11:44 AM
"Gung Ho" the story of "Assan" motors move to the USA, starring Michael Keaton. One of my favorites. (They had to build 15,000 cars in a month. :o )

Gung Ho (http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0091159/)

BigAl
03-05-2006, 12:03 PM
[QUOTE=Snowcat Operations]This thread reminds me of that movie where the workers had to build 2000 cars in 3 days. Cant remember the name but the cars were missing quite a few essentail parts! Yup the Quality of the Kristi products shows through Al:yum: :moon: :D QUOTE]

And yet the Kristi is still a better built unit then your Snot Trac ..... Even with all its flaws .

In an "independent study poll" the question was asked of 120,365,014 people what they would rather have . A Kristi or a Snow Trac ??? The amazing results were that *120,365,013 overwhelming said a Kristi was there brand of Choice !!!! The other guy who abstained from voting thought it was the line to the Men's bathroom . Nobody wanted to be seen in a Snow Trac!!! .

As one "poll voter" put it after voting ... "The Snow Trac is a lot like a overweight women , They are both fun to ride ,but nobody wants to be caught on one" !!!

*( poll margin error of +- 3%)


:coolshade Big Al :coolshade

Ricochet
03-05-2006, 12:12 PM
Wow, this is a very interesting restoration. Good luck with it all and I'm looking forward to seeing the end results! :thumb:

BigAl
03-05-2006, 12:37 PM
Wow, this is a very interesting restoration. Good luck with it all and I'm looking forward to seeing the end results! :thumb:

So am I !!! :drink: :drink: Hicup...
Big Al

Ricochet
03-05-2006, 01:07 PM
So am I !!! :drink: :drink: Hicup...
Big Al

LOL :beer:

BigAl
03-05-2006, 08:38 PM
It just keeps getting better and better . This morning I woke up to rain falling . I should have recognized this ominous sign and stayed in bed . But NO... I merrily head to the shop after breakfast and into impending doom !

Start taking off the boogie wheels which requires a 4 way lug wrench and a 3’ extension pipe to break the lug nuts loose . I am pretty sure they were put on by some big guy named “Bubba” , with one hell of a mean streak .

Ok , wheels are off now and time to tackle the track rails . 3 hours later I finally get the last snap ring off ,so I can remove the rail assembly .

I start trying to remove the gear drive assembly and the neighbor shows up on his ATV . He wants to help , so I tell him to grab that “ ice pick looking thing and stick it behind this snap ring when I pop it out of the groove . Oh Yeah … You can see where this is going !!!
Anyway neighbor goes home very quickly and I get a band aid for my finger where ice pick made a small hole . Neighbor runs over my sprinkler head as he is high tailing it out of sight on his ATV .
I go back to working on removing gear box and muttering about needing a drink .I then realize I need an internal snap ring plier to remove the last set of snap rings . I head to the local Napa dealer and the salesman ,who is all of 13 tells me “ These are our best pliers” . Never trust a 13 year old !!! Anyway I buy pliers and head back home to finish up . Neighbor waves as I go by and I flip him off with Band Aided finger :finger1: . I try to assemble snap ring pliers and finally end up reading directions 30 minutes later . The last set of snap rings are inside a 3/8 inch steel incased case that Houdini could not open and has an inspection hole about the size of a quarter . I start thinking I may need a Chinese fella with two universal joints on his finger to get to that last snap ring set because there is no way my fat fingers will ever get in that little area. . I keep trying and get it to move a little . One last try and I am squeezing for all I am worth . That is about 9000 pounds of force . Those “great” Napa Pliers fold up like a shot duck during hunting season !!!!!! Lucky for me I have my Band Aided finger in just the right spot to cushion the blow of the two handles banging together !!! :4_11_9: I let out a yell and crotch hop across the shop . I can now feel my Heart beat through my finger .

For those who may not know what a “Crotch Hop” is , I will explain . You put your injured hand ,finger or whatever between your legs and hop really fast while muttering every cuss word you know .

Wife yells out the door that she is making me a Drink ! A double ! :drink:



Not to be denied my moment of success I attack the snap ring with the biggest hammer I can find ! The driver side track/gear assembly is finally off !!!

Tomorrow I am going to try and do the right side track assembly if my finger stops hurting .

Big Al:tiphat:

Melensdad
03-05-2006, 09:47 PM
Gee Al, sorry to hear about your problems. I just got back inside. We had a nice fresh snowfall here that we were not supposed to get. The family decided it would be a nice evening for a drive in the Snow Trac so we packed up the little yappy dog and had a very pleasant drive through the fields.

Too bad about your finger.

Ricochet
03-05-2006, 10:33 PM
Ouch! :eek:

I guess you probably ended up with a triple. :drink::drink::drink:

I must admit that was a pretty good summary of your day...funny too. :thumb:

DAP
03-06-2006, 01:58 PM
This thread reminds me of that movie where the workers had to build 2000 cars in 3 days. Cant remember the name but the cars were missing quite a few essentail parts! ....


Could be your talking about the movie 'Tucker'. In that movie however, it was only 50 cars in 7 days. 49 of em are still with us.

Talk about getting the shaft ...

:applause:

BigAl
03-06-2006, 07:22 PM
Ok Boys and Girls !
This was the day I have been waiting for ! I removed the remaining track and gear box as well as the frame . On 2/23 /2006 I started tearing this old KT7 apart . Today I finished . 11 days to rip it apart . I’m pretty happy about that . :thumb:
Called the neighbor and told him to come on over and take a look . He asked me if I was still mad ??? :pat: Silly neighbors can’t tell when I am kidding around . Told him to come on over and bring a 6 pack of beer . Also asked him if he had any Rum and Dr. Pepper . :beer:

Had the neighbor help me lift the old fiberglass body outside again and gave it another pressure washing and degreasing .Told him to stick around , have a beer and stop complaining about helping move it out . Told him maybe I would help him lift when we take it back in the shop :whistle: Finger is still pretty sore though .

I now have it back in the shop and started grinding out the cracks , holes and cutting out damaged areas . Going to add another layer of glass across the whole bottom of the body for additional strength and any areas where it has stress cracked .

Did you know that if you grind off red "gel coat" and do not use a mask , you end up with the coolest “Red Boogers” ???



Tomorrow I am headed off to the paint store to pick up fiberglass cloth , resin ,oh ...and a mask and start putting her back together !!!:a1:

Here are a few pictures .
Big “ Red Booger” Al:coolshade

Ricochet
03-06-2006, 07:55 PM
Looking good Red Boogers! :thumb:

Melensdad
03-06-2006, 10:34 PM
Allen, did you realize the amount of work you would have to put into this when you bought it? From prior conversations, I never figured you'd have to totally tear it apart. But I must say, you are sure doing the job right. Have you considered glassing in a piece of plywood on the bottom, or some narrow strips of plywood to help act as impact barriers on the bottom of the unit?

BigAl
03-06-2006, 10:53 PM
Allen, did you realize the amount of work you would have to put into this when you bought it? From prior conversations, I never figured you'd have to totally tear it apart. But I must say, you are sure doing the job right. Have you considered glassing in a piece of plywood on the bottom, or some narrow strips of plywood to help act as impact barriers on the bottom of the unit?

Hi Bob ,
NO ! I did not think the KT7 had this much abuse , but in defense of the guy I bought it from ,I do not think he knew it also . Until I started tearing into it ,I really thought it was in pretty good shape .The motor runs strong ,but after what I have found ,I do not trust it . Since I am this far it would be crazy not to finish it correctly . Lucky for me ,most of the work is just my labor . I can do everything else but the machine work on the block and heads .

The floor already has a 3/4" lumber core plywood which is glassed on both sides . I just want some extra glass protection on that bottom .
Big Al

BigAl
03-07-2006, 10:18 PM
Today I headed for the Automotive paint store and picked up my fiberglass cloth ,resin and about $260 bucks of really neat stuff that somehow ended up in my basket for my prep work . I still don’t know how that happens .I told the salemans the type of paint I would eventually need for the body .A custom mixed Base coat/Clear coat mix to match my Ford Truck. He just smiled and rubbed his hands together . Boy! I hate that !

Got started about 2:00 PM . Started glassing in all the holes and cracks . Got about half of the bottom half of the body done .

I used Fiberglass “Kitty Hair” on the small holes and scratches . That stuff works well for that . Sands real nice !

Started scratching myself about two hours ago and have not stopped since ! Boy that stuff is itchy !!!

I am using a structural reinforcing type of Fiberglass cloth to overlay the bottom . This is much stronger than the woven type of cloth . A little harder to work with ,but well worth the effort .

After talking with the “paint tech” about “spray on” bed liners I am just about talked into doing it myself . He said his results were better than the spray on dealers and the finished product would be thicker and cheaper . How about it Bob??? I know you did your own , Was it worth the effort ?



Did you know that Fiberglass Red boogers are really tough ??? You should not let them “set up” too long before digging them out . When the nose hair comes out with it ,that hurts and tears form in your eyes!:cry:

Tomorrow I should get quite a bit done .



Big Al:coolshade

Ricochet
03-07-2006, 11:16 PM
This thread rocks! :a1:

BigAl
03-08-2006, 11:25 AM
Two pictures of 4 - 1" cut holes being fiberglassed patched over . These will get two more layers of glassing , applied from the inside of the body .They were for routing the 4 old hydraulic lines that went to the rear of the vehicle for towed implements.

BiG Al

BigAl
03-08-2006, 09:08 PM
Well... I spent this morning grading out a friends road so I only got in half a day on the restoration .
Got my order placed for new seats ,marine carpet , interior fabic , insulation , lights ,trim , etc. I spent the remainer of the day sanding , patching , filling and going over the body for any stress cracks or imperfections .

I have four major cracks to "glass in" and reinforce tomorrow on the lower body . Bottom back door area at pintle hook , bottom front door area at eye bolt , from the front light hole to the door and one that runs from the rear track lift arm hole toward the back . At least three of these cracks were cause by operator neglect and added parts that were improperly installed .

Also discovered today that it appears at one time the front drivers side has been damaged and repaired . Looks like who ever repaired it ,did a first class job .
So it looks like a few more days of labor before the "tub" is ready to be primered .


Big Al

BigAl
03-08-2006, 11:45 PM
I forgot to add in the last post that I discovered what a projected "Sales Price" for a KT7 was going to be when it hit the production line .
I found an article on the web from the monthly minutes of the Board of Commissioners , San Juan County , State of Utah .

There is a "one sentence reference" for approval of sending "The Kristi Company" a 10% deposit of about $1100 for a future KT7 . I assume , this would have been just before the company went out of business . It was dated about 1972 , I believe .

Based on the 10% down price ,that would put the sales price at $11,000.00 for a KT7 in 1972 .

I wonder what it would calculate into "todays dollars" given the "cost of living increases since 1972 ?

Big Al

pixie
03-09-2006, 07:36 AM
Al, great project you got going. I usually get things all taken apart and get overwhelmed. Anyway, you were asking in another thread about rebuild kits for your motor. I found a place that sells rebuilt motors so parts must be available.

http://www.kcpp.com/remanufactured_engines.htm

Good luck. I can't wait to see the Kristi up and running :D

BigAl
03-09-2006, 09:57 AM
Al, great project you got going. I usually get things all taken apart and get overwhelmed. Anyway, you were asking in another thread about rebuild kits for your motor. I found a place that sells rebuilt motors so parts must be available.

http://www.kcpp.com/remanufactured_engines.htm

Good luck. I can't wait to see the Kristi up and running :D

Thanks Pixie . I went down yesterday and talked with the local Napa machine shop about my motor . They don't seem to know much about them , even though it is a Ford .

Gave me a figure a $850 just to redo the heads complete . Holy Cow!!!! That seems really high to me . We did not even get around to talking about machining the engine block .

They think that if it has good compression across the pistons and passes a leak down test ,I should just go with it . I just am very relucdant to reinstall that motor without going through it .

Can I get some input and advice from some of you other "Motor Heads" out there on doing this ???


Big Al

Melensdad
03-09-2006, 10:02 AM
Silly quesiton, but what about just swapping in a similar size Ford engine that is not an "industrial" version?

I know Snow Trac's have an "industrial" ending in them, but I also know that a regular aircooled VW flat-4 fits perfectly under the hood. If my engine ever dies, I think it would be easier and less expensive to swap it out for a more common engine.

mtntopper
03-09-2006, 10:11 AM
Just keep up the posting and pics on your KT7 restoration.:a1: I look forward to coming in from the shop after working on our 1500 LMC each day and seeing that someone else actually has more problems to contend with than I do.;) kinda helps me sleep better knowing there are others out there with similiar problems. Of course the Dr. Rums also take some of the pain away. Just had to try it.

Wish I would of documented the snow cat rebuilds like you with all the pics and details.

BigAl
03-09-2006, 10:17 AM
Silly quesiton, but what about just swapping in a similar size Ford engine that is not an "industrial" version?

I know Snow Trac's have an "industrial" ending in them, but I also know that a regular aircooled VW flat-4 fits perfectly under the hood. If my engine ever dies, I think it would be easier and less expensive to swap it out for a more common engine.

Good question Bob !,
I was talking to a guy the other day ,who knows more than anyone I know about motors . He was telling me that he thought one of the old Mercury "Capri" motors would fit right in . I have not seen a Capri motor and do not know the specs on one .
Worst case senario is I may just do that . It would be nice to keep this KT7 as close to orginal as possible . So far , other than a much better updated interior finish ,sun roof ,Radio's , custom paint and tinted windows the kristi will be mostly stock .
At the rate I am going ,I need to make a decision about this motor SOON!
Big Al

Melensdad
03-09-2006, 10:21 AM
Wish I would of documented the snow cat rebuilds like you with all the pics and details.

So do we. But there is always next time! :weneedpic

One thing I would like to see is more restoration photos and threads about the 'small stuff' like restoring the headlights, or restoring/repairing the dashboard/gauges/switches, or rewiring the electrical system, or detailed threads about painting, etc.

We often post threads that show the big improvements or 'milestones' we make in our progress, but the devil is in the details. While specific threads about the 'small stuff' probably won't be viewed as often, with as much interest as the general topic restorations, my guess is that a thread that goes into detail will provide a lot of useful information for someone else who really needs it. And really, what is so different about restoring one of our snowcats or restoring an old car or building a hot rod? The process of tearing it down and putting it back together is pretty much the same.

BigAl
03-09-2006, 10:24 AM
Just keep up the posting and pics on your KT7 restoration.:a1: I look forward to coming in from the shop after working on our 1500 LMC each day and seeing that someone else actually has more problems to contend with than I do.;) kinda helps me sleep better knowing there are others out there with similiar problems. Of course the Dr. Rums also take some of the pain away. Just had to try it.

Wish I would of documented the snow cat rebuilds like you with all the pics and details.

Hey ! That is a great idea ! There are a lot more LMC's running around than Kristi's . You should do that on your next project !!!
As for the Dr, Rum , that was a lucky discovery at a low point in my Kristi rebuild life !

Mtntopper , I also gave your name to a guy who is looking for a snowcat to access his mountain cabin in the winter up in the Sierra's .Seems like you had or have a couple for sale . He asked about buying my KT7 .If he takes it any further I will get him in contact with you .
Al

mtntopper
03-09-2006, 10:32 AM
They think that if it has good compression across the pistons and passes a leak down test ,I should just go with it . I just am very relucdant to reinstall that motor without going through it .
Big Al

That engine is really well designed and almost bullet proof. Might be better off to not rebuild unless it really needs attention. Do you know how many hours are on the engine? One of the major problems I have seen with this motor are old gasket and seal problems. If everything else checks out good, I would consider just a reseal of the complete engine instead of acomplete rebulid. You may still want to do the valve and head work.

The V4 engine compact design and HP rating makes it an ideal fit in a small and narrow engine compartment area. It would be hard to put any other engine design in many applications where it was used without major fabrication and alteration. You would probably have to change the cooling system with another engine swap also. Then the transmission adaption may also become an issue. I have seen a GM 4 cylinder in an Imp once. They had to extended the front nose end of the Imp to accomodate the cooling system required for this inline 4 cylinder engine and new transmission arrangement.:( :beer:

BigAl
03-09-2006, 10:46 AM
That engine is really well designed and almost bullet proof. Might be better off to not rebuild unless it really needs attention. Do you know how many hours are on the engine? One of the major problems I have seen with this motor are old gasket and seal problems. If everything else checks out good, I would consider just a reseal of the complete engine instead of acomplete rebulid. You may still want to do the valve and head work.

The V4 engine compact design and HP rating makes it an ideal fit in a small and narrow engine compartment area. It would be hard to put any other engine design in many applications where it was used without major fabrication and alteration. You would probably have to change the cooling system with another engine swap also. Then the transmission adaption may also become an issue. I have seen a GM 4 cylinder in an Imp once. They had to extended the front nose end of the Imp to accomodate the cooling system required for this inline 4 cylinder engine and new transmission arrangement.:( :beer:

Thanks Mtntopper ,that helps !

If you have a cooling problem in the future ,let me know . I also owned a Radiator Shop before I retired .

We did a ton of "extreme custom designed radiators ".Half the custom rigs running around here have my radiators in them . I even had one in the "Oakland Roadster Show" Grand Champion winner .

I can usually solve just about any cooling problem. With so many radiator core designs avalible there is no reason why anyone should have too put up with a cooling problem . It all breaks down to cubic inches of core, tank size , and air flow .
Big Al

BigAl
03-09-2006, 08:06 PM
Evening Guys & Gals:tiphat: ,

Today I really got after looking for engine parts . I made quite a few discoveries with the help of the old internet . Below is a list of Ford parts used on other Ford motors that will fit a Ford V4 104 Cu. In. motor :

Fuel Pump , Distributor cap and general tune up parts etc . Ask for parts for a 1971 Ford Pinto or Bobact 2000 CC OHC motor .

Pistons , Bearings, oil pump , valves and other internal parts should be the same as a Mercury Capri 159 cu.in. V6 - 2600 CC motor .

TRW also makes a Aluminum Camshaft gear that will replace the "Bakelite" one that is stock . The replacement Camshaft gear is , according to the information I found ,to be 100% better .

The 104 Cu . Inch Ford V4 were also used in Saab 96 and Saab Sonnets of the late 1960's early 1970's.

Today I glassed up the 4 major cracks in the body and started preparing the interior floor for another layer of fiberglass .
I had intended to lay the fiberglass layer over the outside of the body floor , but after thinking about it decided to install it on the inside . I have already ground out and glassed in any damaged areas to the outside floor area and it is basically done and ready for the Bed Liner spray. Putting the fiberglass on the inside will give me a good suface for reinstalling the metal frame assembly . I can also extend the glass up the insides of the body,gain additional structural strength and when the new interior is installed ,it will never be noticed . A hell of a lot less work too!!

In repairing the cracks and damage in the fiberglass, I first cut or ground out the damaged area . Rough up the surrounding area with 80 grit sandpaper on a disc sander . I did this on the inside of the body panel too . I also drilled a small 1/4" hole at the ends of any cracks to stop them from traveling any further .

I then used a reinforcing type fiberglass cloth for any areas that needed structural strength . I started on the outside and applied a heavy coat of resin with a small cheap 2" (throw away) paint brush .On larger areas I use a "short nap" paint roller . I then applied my precut and fitted piece of cloth to the damaged area allowing it to overlap as needed and applied another heavy coat of resin ,bedding and brushing the cloth until all air bubbles were removed .I may need more than one layer to build up to the thickness of the orginal surroundind area . Apply only one layer a day . That's it ! Let it dry overnite and then repeat the procedure on the opposite side . If I am repairing a larger area and the cloth wants to sag in the hole or crack , I sometimes will tape a piece of cardbooard on the back side to keep it straight . I just leave it, and lightly grind it off before starting on the "back side fiberglassing" on the next day .

After The fiberglass has dried and hardened ,I use a Air sander with 40 to 80 grit sandpaper to take out any humps or bumps . I finish with a very light coat of Fiberglass "Kitty Hair filler" and sand until I have the desired results .Use a "sanding block" and not just your hand when sanding ! I cannot stress this enough if you want a good looking "finished repair" . I graduate up to 320 grit paper then primer/seal, sand with 400 grit and paint .
This may not be the way the body shops get it done ,but it has always worked for me with good results .

Tomorrow the inside floor gets glassed in . I'll take some pictures of that so you can see the finished result .

:tiphat: Big Al

BigAl
03-10-2006, 09:38 PM
Well.....

The fiberglass work is done ! I just finished laying a new layer of reinforcing fiberglass on the floor . I may never stop itching!

One thing I did not mention in yesterdays post is to wear long sleeve clothing when working with fiberglass . Also goggles , gloves and a hat . That fiberglass can get everywhere when you are grinding or sanding it . Hang on a minute.... I got a itch !

Ok thats better , now where was I ???? Oh yea ... fiberglass .

All that is left to do on the lower body is a little clean up on the new floor and a little finish sanding on the exterior .

I will wait to shoot the two part epoxy sealer/primer on the exteroir as I only have 24 hour window to apply the Base coat /Clear coat when I do it . Since I still have the upper body parts to repair, the repaired lower half will get hauled outside until all the body pieces are ready . I have included two pictures . The first is the new fiberglass floor . The second photo is the type of fiberglass I used for reinforcing the floor . As you can see the fibers go in every direction which makes it much stronger than the woven type for reinforcing .

One last note ,is a trick I learned from the Indians in Panama for fixing worm holes in wooden boats . Take straight resin with hardener and add Talc to it . Yes, the same type of talc "Bogus Bob" uses on his butt . Keep adding talc until you get a putty type consistency ! This makes the best filler for holes I have ever used !

Ok, since I don't drink , its time for me to go take my "Dr.Rum rheumatism medicine" .

HONEY!!! Make it a Double!!!

:coolshade Big Al

Melensdad
03-10-2006, 09:54 PM
Why talc?

Also, have you tried wearing a disposable Tyvec jumpsuit when fiberglassing? I've used them when spraying 2 part epoxy; Tyvec is modestly cheap, and would be ideal for fiberglass work too.

BigAl
03-10-2006, 10:10 PM
Why talc?

Also, have you tried wearing a disposable Tyvec jumpsuit when fiberglassing? I've used them when spraying 2 part epoxy; Tyvec is modestly cheap, and would be ideal for fiberglass work too.

Actually a tyvek suit would work very well .

As far as using talc . It does not change the fomula , works excellent and is very cheap .

The Indians in Panama will also take styrofoam and add a little gas . As you know it will desolve the styrofoam ,but did you know it makes an excellect glue??? They use it for repairing cracks in their dug out canoes .
Al

BigAl
03-11-2006, 10:26 AM
quote=BigAl](" The Indians in Panama will also take styrofoam and add a little gas . As you know it will desolve the styrofoam ,but did you know it makes an excellect glue??? They use it for repairing cracks in their dug out canoes " end quote ) Forgot to mention that they use only enough gas to set the styrofoam chunks on fire . They use a old discarded soup can to melt the styrofoam down . Once it completely melts from the fire they then pour it striaght from the can into the crack on their boat . Once it cools ,it is hard as a rock . Allen

BigAl
03-11-2006, 08:55 PM
Today ,I started by hauling the lower body outside to store and started on the repairs to the front entry door to the KT7 . I started by removing the wiper motor and window . Once I had all the hardware off and the old weatherstripping dug out ,I was able to see the extent of damage . I knew I had some major cracks ,but once I started grinding ,I realized that the plywood core had rotted away in one whole corner of the door ,where the window is secured . I cut out the fiberglass cover from the inside and with a small chisel ,starting digging out all rotten wood . Tomorrow I will stop by the lumber yard and pick up a can of expanding foam .I intend to use it to fill the plywood void before fiberglassing . I hope that the resin does not react with the foam . I plan on testing some first . If this fails , I will cut new plywood pieces and bed with resin to fill in the rotted section and overlay a new section of fiberglass cloth . I had planned on showing pictures of the door ,but my attachment is not working ???? Bob S did you do this to get even ??? Big Al

Melensdad
03-11-2006, 10:36 PM
I had planned on showing pictures of the door ,but my attachment is not working ???? Bob S did you do this to get even ??? Big Al Nope. Blame Doc, he upgraded the site! Actually I had some problems with uploading photos earlier, but then it started working fine for me. Maybe its just you. But right now the SMILIES are not working. . . they were working earlier. Hhmmmmm?

BigAl
03-12-2006, 05:38 PM
Wow!
I finally got my attachments working again .

You guys have to remember that my computer is so old it has a choke knob and a hand crank ! I am not even up to having "dial up" where I live !!!

I tried everything I could think of to get it working again . I even spun it around and looked in the back of the "monitor/coup combo" . That is where the "homing pigeons" live and fly the messages back and forth . I did find one dead bird and I think that may have been the problem . The other pigeons did not want to cut in front of him, in the line , so nobody did anything !!!They are Union Birds !!!

Anyway ,I cleaned out the dead pigeon ,fed the pigeons and got everybody lined back up . I signed in and I guess it fixed itself and the birds are happy again ! Last thing I want is a pissed off union pigeon ...


So here are the pictures of the damaged door
Big Al

Melensdad
03-12-2006, 05:41 PM
Are you going to glass in some new wood? Honestly I'm totally clueless on fiberglass repair. Never done it. Talked to a bunch of people about it, but never had the need to do it. So I'm just sort of a clueless idiot but it strikes me that you'll need to reinforce that corner somehow.

BigAl
03-12-2006, 06:15 PM
Are you going to glass in some new wood? Honestly I'm totally clueless on fiberglass repair. Never done it. Talked to a bunch of people about it, but never had the need to do it. So I'm just sort of a clueless idiot but it strikes me that you'll need to reinforce that corner somehow.

Bob,
I called a "body shop owner" that I know this morning and explained what I was up against .I felt I was "ok" doing what I had stated in my previous post ,but wanted to be sure . He explained that if I was happy with the structual strength in the corner (I am) than filling with foam would be ok . He told me as long as the layers of fiberglass are fairly thick in the corner it will act as its own structual support system .If not than I should glass in with "plywood" to gain strength . One thing he told me that I had not considered was that "Foam" will move slightly and wood will not . Use foam ONLY for cosmetic!!!

To make a long story short ,I went ahead and used a piece of plywood in the corner just in case and foamed in the other area that was cosmetic and just needed to be filled before overlaying with fiberglass . After discussing it all with him , I feel pretty confident . I guess we will see !
I just finished glassing and will grab some pictures of the repair tomorrow .
Big Al

OkeeDon
03-12-2006, 09:04 PM
As your body shop friend suggested, the core of plywood is there to add strength to the structure. Generally, it's important for the integrity of the structure that the reinforcement be all one piece. The only ramification I can see for your repair is that two separate pieces of wood will not spread the stress over the entire door, and if there is pressure on the repaired area, it may crack or break separately from the rest of the structure. In other words, the space between the pieces of wood could act as a hinge.

If you're reasonably satisfied that there won't be any abnormal stress in that corner of the door, you're probably OK with the repair. After all, there was effectively no wood at all in that location, so anything you do will be better. If it does break in the future, your're going to have to dig out more (or even all) of the encapsulated wood and replace it with one piece. This is a fairly common problem and repair procedure on the transoms of fiberglass boats, where the plywood core helps support the motor.

BigAl
03-12-2006, 10:57 PM
Thanks OkeeDon ,
I appreciate your input . One thing I did not mention is that the piano type hinge goes way beyond the area where the damage is . I can build up the inside of the door panel with additional layers of overlapping glass with no change to the basic operation of the door . I will know more tomorrow after I see how strong the repair is .
Al

Melensdad
03-13-2006, 03:32 PM
Well I bought another snow cat, this one is a beauty. For some reason I can't seem to upload the photo.
Big Al

No problem Allen, here is the photo you needed help with. This new cat sure looks like it will be more reliable than the other 3 you own. :whistle:

Snowcat Operations
03-13-2006, 03:36 PM
Bahhhaha ahhhahahaha

BigAl
03-13-2006, 08:42 PM
No problem Allen, here is the photo you needed help with. This new cat sure looks like it will be more reliable than the other 3 you own. :whistle:


Just remember Bogus Bob, paybacks are hell ...

and what the hell are you laughing at Mouse Ear Mike ???

Now you gone too far and I am forced to unleash the full force of my "Insulting Power" apon you two ... maybe three, if I find out Toe Jam Tommo was part of this ! Let the game begin!
Big Al:coolshade

Melensdad
03-13-2006, 08:55 PM
Just remember Bogus Bob, paybacks are hell ...

and what the hell are you laughing at Mouse Ear Mike ???

Now you gone too far and I am forced to unleash the full force of my "Insulting Power" apon you two ... maybe three, if I find out Toe Jam Tommo was part of this ! Let the game begin!
Big Al:coolshade
Allen, feel free to insult me, but do me a favor and use your SPELLCHECK next time. :moon:
Oh, and here is another version of your new snowkitty. This is a really nice model for you because when you get stuck in the snow you can eat toast until someone comes to rescue you.

BigAl
03-13-2006, 09:03 PM
Allen, feel free to insult me, but do me a favor and use your SPELLCHECK next time. :moon:
Remember Bob ,I am a simple minded man and expected to make mistakes where you are the "grand pooba" of the snowcat section and never allowed too . Oh!!! and stop trying to side swipe my KT7 restoration thread ! Only I get to do that !
Big Al:coolshade

BigAl
03-13-2006, 09:08 PM
Allen, feel free to insult me, but do me a favor and use your SPELLCHECK next time. :moon:
Oh, and here is another version of your new snowkitty. This is a really nice model for you because when you get stuck in the snow you can eat toast until someone comes to rescue you.
Bob , You need a real job .
Al

BigAl
03-13-2006, 09:11 PM
OK , nothing was done today on the KT7 because Bob S . hurt my feelings and I don't feel like sharing . Maybe tomorrow ....

Sadly ,
Big Al

Snowcat Operations
03-13-2006, 11:24 PM
Wuahhahahaa hahaa:yum: :D :D :moon:

BigAl
03-14-2006, 07:31 PM
Ok ! Back to business!

Today I finished the fiberglass repair to the front entry door and set it aside . The new repairs have made a hell of a difference to the overall flexing that the door was doing before . Pictures soon !

I brought in the front upper cab and started going over it for repair . Surprize, surprize ! It is in very good shape and will only require cosmetic repair . I am going to glass in the Hydraulic Valve lever holes and the Spot Light attachment holes to clean up the cab . I ground out any screw holes and the above mentioned areas ,I wanted to fill and that is about as far as I can go today .
It has been snowing/raining for a month and I need to let the cab dry out before going any further and trying to reglass
Big Al.

Snowcat Operations
03-14-2006, 08:12 PM
BigAl I'm sorry I damaged your dorrs when I blew by you in my Snow Master! :yum:

BigAl
03-14-2006, 09:39 PM
BigAl I'm sorry I damaged your dorrs when I blew by you in my Snow Master! :yum:

LOL . You better hope I don't find out when you start rebuilding that old broken down piece of Sh!# (American for PooPoo). I will never leave you alone!!!

Snowcat Operations
03-15-2006, 12:01 AM
LOL

Snowcat Operations
03-15-2006, 12:06 AM
But the timing was perfect!

BigAl
03-15-2006, 08:45 PM
I pretty much finished the body work on the front upper half of the cab and started on the rear upper cab today . It is in great condition . I only have the rear door to sand and do a little touch up on it before all the basic body repairs are finished . I talked with the bed liner installers today and they feel there product will hold up better than the "do it yourself bedliner kit" I was thinking of doing . I could use some input on this .
I also ran into a small problem today as I was setting up the overhead consoles front and rear . The front overhead consoles extends into the escape hatch area by about 6" . I am going to fill in and glass in a small section of the escape hatch opening on the front cab to make enough room for the Radios ,communications equipment ,speakers , interior lighting etc .

Big Al

Snowcat Operations
03-15-2006, 08:47 PM
BigAl the do it your self stuff is ok at best. The spray in stuff is a much better product.

BigAl
03-15-2006, 09:42 PM
BigAl the do it your self stuff is ok at best. The spray in stuff is a much better product.


Yea, I think I will just go that way .
I got way too much time and effort invested in this project to half ass it now .The kit I was going to use was also a spray in liner and required a special gun to apply .
It's not like I hav'nt got a million other things to do . I feel like I am falling behind on schedule . I still need to make a final decision on this damn motor .I still think I am looking at a rebuild .
New parts are starting to arrive and I am running out of places to store stuff .
I also got to looking closely at the center body section that I had planned on remaking in Polished Aluminum . I have just about talked myself into taking a 4" grinder and cutting the interior fiberglass layer out that delaminated ,digging out the rotten wood and reinstalling and bedding with resin a new plywood center with a new layer of fiberglass on the inside . If I can get the bow out of the top center section ,I just might try it . That would sure make things easier . It can't hurt to try ,since the old section is "toast" if it does not work .
allen

OkeeDon
03-15-2006, 11:01 PM
Al, if you decide to dig out the core of that center section, and would like to keep the finished piece light and strong, consider using end-grain balsa core material (balcore) for the reinforcement. Here (http://www.fiberglasswarehouse.com/core_foam.asp) is one source -- scroll down to the 1/2" balcore. You might find something similar at your local fiberglass supply store.

There are several different core materials, including honeycomb materials and various flavors of foam (airex, etc), but good old balcore is one of the best and easiest to work with. The key thing is to make sure that any holes you drill in it to mount lights, roof racks, etc., are through-bolted and sealed with a good marine calk (5200, for example) to make sure there is no water intrusion to reach the balsa. This is actually just as important no matter what the core consists of. If you don't want to through-bolt attachments, you might consider embedding a solid wood block at the attachment points so you can screw into it.

Melensdad
03-16-2006, 01:03 AM
I talked with the bed liner installers today and they feel there product will hold up better than the "do it yourself bedliner kit" I was thinking of doing . I could use some input on this .

I've used the do it yourself spray in 2-part epoxy bedliner with great success in the rear of a pick up. It was easy and about 25% of the cost of the name brand spray in liners. The quality is very good if you use a 2-part epoxy spray.

I used the same thing on my Snow Trac floor but did it in zero temps and had some serious problems drying, but it did finally set up (I think I actually mixed it wrong so it cured very very slowly). However, the finished product has been excellent. It covers the underside of my Snow Trac as well as the lower part of the interior.

BigAl
03-16-2006, 08:55 AM
Al, if you decide to dig out the core of that center section, and would like to keep the finished piece light and strong, consider using end-grain balsa core material (balcore) for the reinforcement. Here (http://www.fiberglasswarehouse.com/core_foam.asp) is one source -- scroll down to the 1/2" balcore. You might find something similar at your local fiberglass supply store.

There are several different core materials, including honeycomb materials and various flavors of foam (airex, etc), but good old balcore is one of the best and easiest to work with. The key thing is to make sure that any holes you drill in it to mount lights, roof racks, etc., are through-bolted and sealed with a good marine calk (5200, for example) to make sure there is no water intrusion to reach the balsa. This is actually just as important no matter what the core consists of. If you don't want to through-bolt attachments, you might consider embedding a solid wood block at the attachment points so you can screw into it.

Thanks OkeeDon ,

I believe someone at one time may have used the Balsa in one area that was repaired in the past . It is very light weight . My biggest concern is the old fiberglass center top section has a major bow/buckle in the outer fiberglass layer where it has delaminated . If I can get this to straighten out and lay back down correctly it will cut my restoration time by a week or more .It appears to be about a 1/8" thick outer layer .I may even try adding some bracing . There will be no bolts in the roof when this is redone .
Al

BigAl
03-16-2006, 09:12 AM
I've used the do it yourself spray in 2-part epoxy bedliner with great success in the rear of a pick up. It was easy and about 25% of the cost of the name brand spray in liners. The quality is very good if you use a 2-part epoxy spray.

I used the same thing on my Snow Trac floor but did it in zero temps and had some serious problems drying, but it did finally set up (I think I actually mixed it wrong so it cured very very slowly). However, the finished product has been excellent. It covers the underside of my Snow Trac as well as the lower part of the interior.

Ok Bob ,
So it sounds like you are satisfied with the end result of your labors ???
This is also a two part epoxy mix . Now I am thinking maybe the dealer was thinking ,I was talking about a roll on bedliner material :confused: ?????? He did tell me his product would add 80 pounds of wieght to my KT7 after he shot the bed liner on it .
Decisions ,decisions!!!!! I am a better "get it done guy" than a "lets make a decision guy" . One of you guys or gals want to be boss and just tell me what to do ???

OH!!! nevermind ..... I just remember, I'm married and already have a boss to do my thinking !!!:pat: duh!!!

Melensdad
03-16-2006, 09:29 AM
The roll in bed liners are nothing more than thick paint. Rhinoliner and the other brands are just a 2 part epoxy with rubber added.

The stuff I sprayed in did not add 80 pounds of material, but it probably added about 20#. Then again, I sprayed in one gallon. The material is much heavier than water, water weighs 8# per gallon. So I'm guessing I used about 20 pounds of material. I supposed I could have used more in the pick up truck.

Was I satisfied? Yes. That is why I used it again. And it is easy to apply if you buy the kit that includes the 'undercoating' gun. The undercoating guns are about $10, I treat them as disposable.

It has held up perfectly, looks brand new today and has not shown any real signs of abrasion or failure.

How big is of an area do you want to cover? I used one gallon in a short bed pick up, if I had a long bed I would suggest two gallons. So if the area you want to cover in your Kristi is roughly the size of a long bed, then go with two gallons, if you want to really put it on thick, you could add another gallon of material, but I'm not sure that there is any reason for it. And 2 gallons should yield a good thick coating.

BigAl
03-16-2006, 10:51 AM
The roll in bed liners are nothing more than thick paint. Rhinoliner and the other brands are just a 2 part epoxy with rubber added.

The stuff I sprayed in did not add 80 pounds of material, but it probably added about 20#. Then again, I sprayed in one gallon. The material is much heavier than water, water weighs 8# per gallon. So I'm guessing I used about 20 pounds of material. I supposed I could have used more in the pick up truck.

Was I satisfied? Yes. That is why I used it again. And it is easy to apply if you buy the kit that includes the 'undercoating' gun. The undercoating guns are about $10, I treat them as disposable.

It has held up perfectly, looks brand new today and has not shown any real signs of abrasion or failure.

How big is of an area do you want to cover? I used one gallon in a short bed pick up, if I had a long bed I would suggest two gallons. So if the area you want to cover in your Kristi is roughly the size of a long bed, then go with two gallons, if you want to really put it on thick, you could add another gallon of material, but I'm not sure that there is any reason for it. And 2 gallons should yield a good thick coating.

Well the paint dealer told me to figure about $250 for the kit cost along with $25 for the gun . He told me to put on 3 coats . I have about 75 sq ft I want to cover .
Al

BigAl
03-16-2006, 09:59 PM
Good evening all ,
I pretty much finished all the major repair work to the fiberglass body . I still need to go back through everything and start finish sanding . I will work up to 400 grit sandpaper before I shoot the epoxy sealer/primer on the exterior .I had planned on waiting to shoot the epoxy sealer until I was ready to shoot the base coat/ clear coat , but decided to spray as soon as I can .I will have to lightly sand and recoat with epoxy sealer just before I shoot the finish on to get good adhesion for the paint . I just want to be sure I have all the flaws and nicks filled and the sealer/primer epoxy will make it much easier to see this .
I plan to shoot on a primer/sealer on the interior over the weekend . This is all the interior will receive since all the interior will be covered in a carpet/ fabric interior .
I also took stock of how much material I have used to date on the fiberglass body getting it to this point .
Here is the list .
1 gallon degreaser
2 1/2 gallons of fiberglass resin
7 sq. yds. of fiberglass cloth
1- 2' x 4' x 3/4" plywood
1- 12oz can foam spray
10- 2" paint brushes (throw away)
1- 5" paint brush (throw away)
1 gallon of Lacquer thinner
1 box latex "throw away" gloves
1 quart of short "Kitty Hair" fiberglass filler
1 quart of long "Kitty Hair" fiberglass filler
20- 36 grit sandpaper for flat file
20- 80 grit sandpaper for flat file
30- 80 grit - 6" DA sandpaper
20- 120 grit- 6" DA sandpaper
2 tons of elbow grease
1 case Dr. Pepper
37 various cuss words depending on damage found or pain inflicted
6- "Band Aids"

Big Al :tiphat:

Ricochet
03-16-2006, 10:03 PM
Keep up the good work! :thumb:

pixie
03-16-2006, 10:06 PM
You sure work fast, Al :applause:

I'll bet you are glad the fiberglass work is over with .

Only 6 Band-aids :thumb: you got off easy :D

BigAl
03-16-2006, 10:29 PM
You sure work fast, Al :applause:

I'll bet you are glad the fiberglass work is over with .

Only 6 Band-aids :thumb: you got off easy :D

Yes I am ! No matter how well you cover up ,fiberglass dust gets everywhere .I spend about 4 hours a day itching . That is the worst part .
I seldom need Band Aids but the DA and 4" grinder got away from me a couple of times .
When I am using my welder or torch I never need them as I just cauterize the wound . Most people call them burn marks ! If you say "cauterize" ,it sounds like you planned it !
Al

Snowcat Operations
03-17-2006, 12:40 AM
Nice job! Hell you may even be done and be able to come over here for your test run!

villi
03-17-2006, 05:19 PM
Hi Al(l)
I dont see face mask on your list ! Very imported to use, you can get stone lungs !!!

BigAl
03-17-2006, 08:12 PM
Hi Al(l)
I dont see face mask on your list ! Very imported to use, you can get stone lungs !!!


Your right villi,
I already had a mask and eye protection that I use when I am working in body and paint work so I did not include those items on my list .

BigAl
03-17-2006, 08:58 PM
Today I sealed and primed the interior of the front and rear door .These will be covered in fabric on the top half and the lower half will be carpeted . I also started building the overhead console for my AM/FM/CD player , speakers , person to person communications system , head set jacks and interior lights .

Since this is a mid engine snowcat , I felt the noise db level might be too high for occupants and also it might be very difficult to talk to each other so I plan to install a intercom much like the fire department's use in their trucks or is used on private aircraft . It will be voice activated and have the stereo system interfaced to cut out when someone starts talking and then slowly return in volume to its preset position .

I ended of losing about 5” of the opening of the moon roof /hatch in building the overhead console . Since space is so limited inside the snowcat I really had no other placement choice .I used a ¾“ plywood core and foam and will overlay everything with a layer of fiberglass tomorrow .
I will be using ¼” thick deep tinted Plexiglas to build the skylight and set up a piano hinge and adjustable brackets to make it operable .

I have to bring the lower body section back in the shop tomorrow to temporary reinstall the two ends of the upper cabs . I need to make a wire chase route up one corner in the front and back to access the overhead consoles and want these to line up exactly when the two halves of the body are reattached together .

#1 picture shows the repaired door panel where the rotten plywood was removed.
#2 picture is of the interior side of the doors ready for fabric and carpet .
# 3 picture is of the overhead console being constructed

:tiphat: Big Al

Snowcat Operations
03-18-2006, 11:24 AM
Very nice restoration project! I am very impressed with it. Are you going to paint your unit yourself as well? This is what I am planning on doing this summer with three of my units.

BigAl
03-18-2006, 12:19 PM
Very nice restoration project! I am very impressed with it. Are you going to paint your unit yourself as well? This is what I am planning on doing this summer with three of my units.

Yes ,
I will be painting the Kristi myself . I am way to "picky" when it comes to paint jobs .

We finally got a decent sunshiney day with some higher temperatures , so I started early this morning and just finished fiberglassing in the hatch/moonroof area for the front overhead console . It turned out great . Pictures tonight! I now have the upper cab outside curing while I concentrate on the lower body half and get it ready to prime/seal the interior .
Al

BigAl
03-18-2006, 10:17 PM
Evening folks :tiphat: ,

I got the electrical wire conduit pipe fiberglassed in the corners of the snow cat for the overhead consoles . I hate exposed wires . I used Aluminum foil tape to hold the conduit pipe in place while I fiberglassed over it .

Also finished the fiberglass "fill in" to the front hatch / moonroof area . This needed to be done to make additional room for the overhead console .

Finish sanded the interior floor where I had reglassed it . It is now ready for primer / sealer . Also resealed any openings that were cut through the plywood core so no moisture can effect it .

Picture#1 shows the filled in area of the hatch / moonroof.
Picture#2 shows the fiberglassed conduit in the interior corners that lead to the overhead console .

OK !!! The pictures will not load :confused: ! Bob S. is messing with me again !!!
I'll try later .

:coolshade Big Al

Edited by Bob: YUP Allen, I live to mess with you. I will just put this photo of your KT-7 here for you. I do like the new pink paint. And the kitty logo really looks good too.

BigAl
03-18-2006, 10:46 PM
OK! Here are the pictures I was trying to post earlier .

And Bob ,quit messin with my Attachments .

Oh ! And by the way Bob , I am not the one looking for "coconut tree" upholstery for my snow cat .....

Snowcat Operations
03-18-2006, 11:03 PM
Damn man. It almost looks like you know what your doing! So when is the project projected to be done?

BigAl
03-19-2006, 12:03 AM
Hi Mike ,
If everything keeps moving along I should be done by the time I am 95 .:smileywac

Actually ,I am hoping in about 1 1/2 months to be finished . Alot of this is or has been "trail and error" since there are no manuals on this KT7 avalible .
A lot depends on my Dad's health . I try to work around the time I spend out at his place . With Summer coming on his yards and rose garden will be getting a lot more of my attention soon. He has been able to stay out of the hospital for about a month now so I have been able to get a few things done . I am thankful to have this project as it helps to keep my mine busy .
I still think the V4 motor is going to be the time consumer ! I am looking for a qualified Machine shop to do the engine machining work now .
The body work is pretty much completed and ready for paint .
The frame comes in the shop next for some strenghtening , custom hitch , rounding off all sharp corners, sand and new paint . That should only take 2 days .
Then it will be time to rebuild the drive system and hydraulics . YUCK!!!
Last will be the new interior and radios,instruments,tinted windows etc.
Allen

BigAl
03-19-2006, 05:58 PM
Ok ! I'm quittin early today so fire me , I don't care !
I finished up the "fill in" of the corner electrical conduits for the overhead consoles .It's hard to even tell there is even a wire chase route in the corner .
Went ahead and painted the inside of the lower cab and it is now complete . I used 4 coats of a "heavy solids" primer/ sealer . Everything will eventually be covered in fabric,carpet or insulation but this way I will have a good surface for the spray glue to grab hold of .
Here are the latest pictures .
Big Al:tiphat:

Melensdad
03-19-2006, 06:10 PM
Allen, that is awesome looking so far. :thumb: The idea of the wire chase is a excellent one, it sure makes for a clean look that is virtually invisible and should blend into the corner when painted. I'm really curious to see how the steel frame sits inside the bottom tub and attaches. The frame obviously needs to carry the weight and transfer it to the tracks, but are the attachment points heavily reinforced with wood blocks? Even with the frame carrying the weight of the engine, seats, etc, the floor is going to have people standing on it . . . or does the frame have floor pieces too?

I'm looking forward to the photos of it stuck in the snow next winter when Mike has to pull out out of the drift with his Snow Master. :whistle:

BigAl
03-19-2006, 06:27 PM
Bob ,
Where the body bolts to the frame is reinforced 3/4" plywood . This is at 6 points on the body . The back floor section will be changed so the steel frame carries the floor section . This extended frame section will be bolted to the rear of the body unit and a bolt on 2 "reciever hitch tube will be installed on the outside .I am also planning on making a Aluminum expanded metal step that will slide into the reciever hitch so it will be easier for passengers entering or exiting from the rear . When I need a pintle hook or tow ball I can just change it out as needed .The front floor area will remain as it is .

Oh ! And Mike won't be pulling me out I will be pushing him !!!

Al

Snowcat Operations
03-19-2006, 11:16 PM
That will hard to explain when yank starp is attached to you vehicle! But it sure will be the prettiest damn Kristi being pulled out anywhere!

BigAl
03-20-2006, 11:28 PM
Evening folks:tiphat: ,

Not much got done today.

Got a phone bill from ATT for $857 and spent a lot of time on the phone , trying to convince a idiot that a local call is not long distance toll charge :pat: . I finally gave up and told her to take me to jail !!! And I don't even have ATT !!!! Is ATT using India for there complaints and Billings .

I finished sanding the two upper halves of the cab and painted the interior . Headed back to the paint store and picked up another 360 bucks worth of paint supplies !!! Ouch! I now have everything but the Base coat / Clear coat paint material and the bed liner material .The paint guy told me the spray on bed liner material which is a two part epoxy material is much better than the Rhino liner or Line X . Geez ! What to do !!!

Talked with a airplane electronics tech on the communications system today and will head over to the airport to get a wiring schematic for the intercom/stereo set up in a few days . I'll save this and post it for anyone who may want to set up there snow cat in the future for intercoms .

I'll try to get some pictures up tomorrow .
BigAl

pixie
03-21-2006, 08:04 AM
For the bed liner stuff --- I used the roll-it-on-yourself stuff on the rusted floor of my backhoe. It has survived 5 years of chains and metal tools thrown on it without a blemish. Was still $90/gallon and it only came in black. Another option might be the diamond tread sheet goods sold for boats.

Melensdad
03-21-2006, 08:26 AM
Allen, as Pixie just pointed out, there are alternatives.

I got a bid for a pickup truck from Rhinoliner and the dealer wanted about $400 for a basic black coating. For just under $100 I sprayed in a 2 part epoxy. I even got it in a light grey color that matched the interior of the truck. I bought a kit that included everything including the spray gun, all I needed to do was mix the epoxy, connect the gun to my air compressor, and spray. Fast, easy and reasonably mess free (just make sure you mask off what you don't want sprayed!).

I'm sure you can find something that will work well for you without spending a fortune.

Melensdad
03-21-2006, 04:50 PM
Oh ! And Mike won't be pulling me out I will be pushing him !!!

I'll try to get some pictures up tomorrow. I've made tons of progress but am having problems loading the photos again.
BigAl
Here you go Al. :tiphat:

BigAl
03-21-2006, 05:35 PM
Here you go Al. :tiphat:
Good Lord Bob ! Where do you find this stuff ! LOL. You know the pink is starting to grow on me ......

Melensdad
03-21-2006, 05:38 PM
Good Lord Bob ! Where do you find this stuff ! LOL. You know the pink is starting to grow on me ......


I just peeked into your workshop :moon:

BigAl
03-21-2006, 06:04 PM
HI All ,:tiphat:
It was a good day . No ... strike that, It was a Great Day:thumb: !!!! I headed out to the shop after recieving some great emails ! You know who you are and thank you !!!

I decided to 320 sand the exterior of the cabs and get them ready for paint . It was becoming very hard to see the imperfections on the fiberglass and where I needed to apply filler .
Anyway , I hand sanded and applied filler putty as I found areas that needed attention . It went very well and I would putty one cab while repairing the filled areas on the other section .
I broke out my old trusty paint spray gun that I use only for primer/sealer . It looks like it got run over by a truck but it works well .I would clean it ,but I am afraid that would ruin it for good !!! Blew out the shop and all the dust that was in it . I then mixed up 1 quart of epoxy sealer/primer material , wiped everything down with a tack rag started at the top and headed for the bottom .I used a fairly "fast setting" additive in the expoy because the temperture was quite cool when I sprayed . I do not like runs in my paint jobs . It makes me cranky ! Put on 2 coats with a dry time of 20 minutes between coats . The finished results on shown .

Tomorrow looks like the bottom section will get the same !
And yes !!! It is Miller Time !!:drink:

Big Al

Melensdad
03-21-2006, 06:07 PM
Allen, I will give you credit where credit is due. That looks awesome.

pixie
03-21-2006, 08:54 PM
Looks great, Al :thumb:

Wish I could move this fast on my half fixed boat.

Ricochet
03-21-2006, 08:59 PM
Allen, I will give you credit where credit is due. That looks awesome.

+1 :beer:

Snowcat Operations
03-22-2006, 03:53 AM
Allen, I will give you credit where credit is due. That looks awesome.

OK, ok, I also agree with BOB! What kind of beer are you drinking? It seems to be working pretty damn good!

BigAl
03-23-2006, 02:27 PM
Mike,
"Balboa Ice" from Panama is my beer .Really good stuff!!!:a1:

Ok, the lower cab body is epoxy sealed. YIPPEE!!!!
I am posting a few "before and after" shots . Off to town to pick up the base coat /clear coat and one "other" neat little "surprize" that I will be adding on .
Just wait .... You will see it soon enough, but I think you will like it !!!

Ok!!! the damn attachments is not working again!!!!!

BOB S.!!! whats wrong now???:mad: :mad:
I'll try again later

Melensdad
03-23-2006, 02:33 PM
Allen, in all seriousness, I never mess with your ability to post photos and I posted some earlier today without any problems! If there is something wrong, I'd honestly suspect it is on your end of the transmission. File size, pixel size, etc.

BigAl
03-23-2006, 02:38 PM
Ok ....I make one little mistake and everybody jumps on me :whistle:
Here is 3 pictures ... more coming

BigAl
03-23-2006, 02:41 PM
1 more

Snowcat Operations
03-23-2006, 02:42 PM
Man that must be some good beer! Great work Al!

Melensdad
03-23-2006, 03:47 PM
Al,

Here is that photo you forgot to put up to show your progress. :whistle:

BigAl
03-23-2006, 08:03 PM
Well ,
I just got back from buying the base coat/ clear coat paint and the bed liner material . Any body want to guess on the price of this stuff ???:pat: :pat: :pat: $1076.00!!! I about crapped .
I knew paint had taken a jump ,but holy cow !! Of course the colors I picked match my "King Ranch" Ford and the paint salesman told me they were the most expensive colors to buy !!!! It figures:pat: . I would have changed colors on the spot ,but the savings would not have been more than 1 or 2 hundred dollars overall and I had set my mind on that color scheme at the start .
Oh boy !!! I am going to be in deep kimshee with the wife on this one . Now I have to give her the damn KT7 to save my dumb ass !!!

mtntopper
03-23-2006, 08:56 PM
Well ,
I
Oh boy !!! I am going to be in deep kimshee with the wife on this one . Now I have to give her the damn KT7 to save my dumb ass !!!

Now you really know why I refer to the 1200 LMC as my snow cat and the 1500 LMC as the wifes snow cat. Those repair parts never seem to equal up to the cost of a couple pair of new womens shoes and a trip to the beauty parlor!!!!! Oh well, I always did like a fiesty woman:thumb:

BigAl
03-23-2006, 10:41 PM
Well …. I headed out to the shop to hide out for awhile just to be safe . I had been out there about 2 hours when I realized the wife had gone to the Daughters for a few days . Whew!!! And I thought she I was giving me the cold shoulder treatment .:pat:

I decided as long as I was out there I might as well block sand the lower body and get it ready for final paint . The epoxy sealer / primer did a fine job and I had very little left to correct .I block sanded with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper using water as a cutter agent . A few nicks I missed on the first “fill in” with filler was all I found .

A trick I use is to close my eyes when block sanding and if I can feel or notice any imperfections in the sanded area with my other hand ,I know I am not done and the area is not ready for paint . It has to be smooth , like a baby’s butt !

Anyway the lower tub will get a final bath in the morning and if the weather holds nice I will paint tomorrow . When applying the finish paint you want as close to 70 degrees and no humidity as you can get . Pray for good weather .

Al:tiphat:

mtntopper
03-23-2006, 10:58 PM
Well ….A trick I use is to close my eyes and if I can feel or notice any imperfections in the area with my other hand ,I know I am not done and the area is not ready . It has to be smooth , like a baby’s butt !Al:tiphat:

Are you really sanding or what???:confused: :confused: No wonder you are hiding out. I am usually doing something else with thoughts like those.:D :D I now know how the news media makes those awful quotes that we see now!!!!

BigAl
03-23-2006, 11:21 PM
Are you really sanding or what???:confused: :confused: No wonder you are hiding out. I am usually doing something else with thoughts like those.:D :D I now know how the news media makes those awful quotes that we see now!!!!

Yea .... Sorry about that . Now that I reread my post it does sound kinda bad :pat: . I swear my thoughts were kinda pure .... well almost .

Snowcat Operations
03-24-2006, 12:19 AM
:weneedpic :weneedpic Pictures please!:weneedpic :weneedpic

BigAl
03-24-2006, 12:37 AM
Mike,
If it does not rain tomorrow there is a good chance I can post some . Right now it is impossible to see any difference from the last set of pictures I posted ,as I did not burn through the Epoxy sealer . The difference is in the now "block sanded finish" which you can only feel by touch .

Snowcat Operations
03-24-2006, 12:45 PM
Sorry BigAl. I actually wanted pictures of it when you finish painting. BUT of course you would do that anyway.

BigAl
03-24-2006, 02:19 PM
Hey mike ,
Here is that updated photo you wanted . I just took a little spill in the middle of painting and am taking a break for a few minutes . ! Guess I should have watched where I was going .
I ended up with one small clear coat run and it really pissed me off . When the run dries in about a hour I will hopefully go sand it out and retouch up the area .
PS: all the unpainted area get bedliner

Melensdad
03-24-2006, 02:26 PM
Al just curious, why are you not painting it Kristi orange? Going with the King Ranch color scheme will be very nice, but certainly not very original.

It seems like everyone who restores a Snow Trac paints it either the original orange/red or bright red. Personally I'd like to paint mine either blue or green.

I've seen a blue Snow Trac and really thought it looked awesome. Pictures of it were posted somewhere on the internet, but I know I downloaded one and saved it for future reference. I just figured that guys like Gordon and Mike will give me grief if I paint it blue!

My second choice would be GREEN and I really like the look of military green Snow Tracs. I figure if there is any collector value in a Snow Trac (and I don't think there is) then GREEN is one of the 'acceptable' colors because many of them were actually produced. The other 'acceptable' color would be SNOW CAMO. I like that too, but suspect the lovely Mrs_B would object.

Blue. . . hmmmm.

BigAl
03-24-2006, 02:42 PM
Al just curious, why are you not painting it Kristi orange? Going with the King Ranch color scheme will be very nice, but certainly not very original.


Well shoot Bob , The whole damn KT7 is going to be pretty much "NONCONFORMING" .Remember ,you wanted me to paint it PINK!

It will also have tinted windows and a tinted moon roof but it did not come that way . Also a "mini bar" and AM/FM/CD/GPS radios that was not in the orginal design . The intercom system that is being installed has never been offered in any snowcats that I am aware of .

So not going back to Orange is not a problem for me . I hate orange ! Reminds me of Caltrans . One guy works ,four guys watch !My Snowcat is not lazy ! It should not be orange . Besides since my snowcat was a prototype how do we really know that the orginal designers did not plan to paint it beige/ copper in the final production run .... hmmmmm.... Food for thought .

Also I need some advice !!! ??? Here is the bid I just recieved for the intercom set up . So what do you guys think ???? Is the price out of line or within limits . Same set up as they use in off shore racing boats .


Allen

bczoom
03-24-2006, 02:59 PM
Please tell me more about your intercom needs.
Everyone gets a helmet with intercom? PTT or voice activated?
Any plans/needs to communicate with other vehicles or anyone else within a couple miles?

Snowcat Operations
03-24-2006, 03:11 PM
Bigal,
Go with a surpplus armored vehicle com set. They are much cheaper and the headsets are brand new ($75.00) each if memory serves me correct.

Also the paint is incredible! I need to get with you on my painting needs :)

Snowcat Operations
03-24-2006, 03:16 PM
OK just checked on the comm system. The only problem I see is it is 24 Volt. Its the same system on the M1 Abrams tank. Comes with two new head sets $510.00. Each additional set is $80.00 (used) $100.00 (new) $Thats 710.00 with 2 extra new headsets. Thats half of what they want for the aircraft set up. Remember you are also paying for the FAA approval when you by anything aircraft related (as long as it is permanatly mounted) Those certs. are very very expensive! Hope this helps you out BigAl.

BigAl
03-24-2006, 04:24 PM
OK just checked on the comm system. The only problem I see is it is 24 Volt. Its the same system on the M1 Abrams tank. Comes with two new head sets $510.00. Each additional set is $80.00 (used) $100.00 (new) $Thats 710.00 with 2 extra new headsets. Thats half of what they want for the aircraft set up. Remember you are also paying for the FAA approval when you by anything aircraft related (as long as it is permanatly mounted) Those certs. are very very expensive! Hope this helps you out BigAl.

Cool !!!:a1: That gives me a idea ! Maybe I should add a cannon on top of my KT7 . A real avalanche stopper!!! I already got a hat from the Sugar Bowl Ski Area "Bomb Squad". I don't know if I am suppose to have a hat but what they don't know won't hurt them .:whistle:

Mike , You bring that Snow Trac over here and we will paint it out! No problem ... We could just shoot it with some Auto enamel to keep the cost down or do a whiz bang Base coat /clear coat if you want to .

How would I set up a 24V without dual batteries???

"BiG Boom " What I want is to have the ability for 4 people to talk to each other and have a stereo system interfaced into the system .VOX. I do not need to talk car to car ,just between the passengers . Much like a motorcycle intercom ,but for 4 people . I want full head sets ( no helmet) to keep the nosy level down .
Al

Melensdad
03-24-2006, 04:28 PM
"BiG Boom " What I want is to have the ability for 4 people to talk to each other and have a stereo system interfaced into the system . I do not need to talk car to car ,just between the passengers . Much like a motorcycle intercom ,but for 4 people . I want full head sets ( no helmet) to keep the nosy level down .
Al

Why not just use a thick sound insulation coating around the engine compartment?

BigAl
03-24-2006, 04:38 PM
Why not just use a thick sound insulation coating around the engine compartment?


Even doing that Bob ,I am afraid the engine noise might get pretty high . Remember a Hydro Drive system runs at wide open on the RPM's.I don't have the advantage of idling down the engine like you can on your Snow Trac .
This thing is mid engine and access is inside the cab . It will have full sound and heat insulation all the way around it ,but what if that does not do the job ?? I need to make room for a intercom system just in case .

And besides I would look really "cool" with my little headset on .:coolshade

Snowcat Operations
03-24-2006, 04:42 PM
Dont forget the aviator sunglasses as well!

Melensdad
03-24-2006, 04:45 PM
I would look really "cool" with my little headset on .:coolshade


Just like these guys? :a1:

BigAl
03-24-2006, 04:58 PM
Hey !!! Isn't that last picture a shot of all you guy's at the last 2005 Snow Trac'ers convention that was held in Barstow ????

Yea it is !!! BoB is second from the left and Mike is standing next to him .
Oh, By the way .... Nice outfits :yum: :yum:

Snowcat Operations
03-24-2006, 05:16 PM
How the hell did "I" get dragged into THAT? Besides the comm sets are without the helmets! I was being helpful and this is what I get? What will I get if I do join the KKK? :confused: :fart2:

BigAl
03-24-2006, 05:30 PM
How the hell did "I" get dragged into THAT? Besides the comm sets are without the helmets! I was being helpful and this is what I get? What will I get if I do join the KKK? :confused: :fart2:
Not much !!!


Ok guy's .I am outta here . That little fall screwed up a few things . Gonna head to the Doc and exray .
later

Snowcat Operations
03-24-2006, 06:15 PM
WHAT? What fall? Call me later when you get back.

BigAl
03-24-2006, 09:29 PM
Ok I'm back. Lord I do love good drugs !!! I can't feel anything now !!!!Nothing broken but I will be moving pretty slow for awhile .Gotta watch my stupid big feet and where I step . I did a "triple Axel with a half pike twist combo" . I got scored pretty high by the judges ,but did not win anything . Going to head off to bed . The pretty little birds keep circling around the monitor .

Snowcat Operations
03-25-2006, 01:07 AM
Glad to hear you are feeling better! I told you that you need to keep all those beer bottles picked up off the garage floor! You need to assign that work to KKK member BCZOOM. I say we take a vote. All those in favor of assigning the peeon work to BCZOOM say I. "I". "I". All those who appose say Nay. "Nay". Ok we have 2 to 1 in favor of BCZOOM being deligated this shameful task of picking up ALL of our beer bottles. Get to work BCZOOM!

bczoom
03-25-2006, 03:12 AM
Glad to hear you are feeling better! I told you that you need to keep all those beer bottles picked up off the garage floor! You need to assign that work to KKK member BCZOOM. I say we take a vote. All those in favor of assigning the peeon work to BCZOOM say I. "I". "I". All those who appose say Nay. "Nay". Ok we have 2 to 1 in favor of BCZOOM being deligated this shameful task of picking up ALL of our beer bottles. Get to work BCZOOM!
Hey, no voting in secret meetings. I'm a member also so I'll thrown in a "Nay" and make it even.

Besides, those aren't my bottles. I've been telling our fearless leader to switch to cans for a long time.
When we toss them, they don't break.
We can crush them on our forehead.
They're actually worth something to recycle.

Oh, and when we're discussing things in the KKK, please refer to me by my official title of "Big Boom".

BigAl - Hope you get to feeling better.

BigAl
03-25-2006, 12:22 PM
Now Big Boom ....... Don't you go gettin your knockers all in a twist :boobies: ! Mouse Ear was just jumpin the gun a bit . He ain't no official member yet . A picture of a Kristi on his bathroom wall and a 3 dollar bid on a Ebay Kristicat ain't gonna get it done . He has till Thursday to get a Kristi and become a full fledge member with voting rights or he can petition the "High Court" for a special "Honorary member status" after that .
Well .... the court ain't really that "High" as I am afraid of heights.
So... there you go then ... Everyone happy now ??? Ok lets recess for a beer :beer:

Snowcat Operations
03-25-2006, 12:45 PM
Wait! First of all I am clarvoient. Well ok its something like that. Anyway I said Nay on behalf of "Big Boom". Secondly since I will be bringing a case of beer for our first meeting I know how BigAl will vote. Nothing like a bribe! So suck it Big Boom and get to work!:1062: :drink: :beer: :1062: :drink: :beer:

And I hope not all Kristi members are a bunch of whiners. Boozers is ok but not no damn whiners

BigAl
03-25-2006, 09:34 PM
Evening all:tiphat: ,
It was a very slow moving day !! I got out this morning and started forcing myself to move to keep from stiffing up any worst , from the fall I took yesterday . Went out to the shop and taped off the area for the bedliner coated areas . I then put a radius on all the tape corners to try and compliment the body curves . Took my time and a couple of hours later I had sanded the area to be bedlined with 120 grit sandpaper and was ready to go .

This was the first time I have ever done this and was a little nervous . I set the air up to 90 pounds to give the liner spray a flatter look and not so rough. The lower the air pressure the rougher the finish .The bedliner mix ratio is 2 to 1 and I had color added to match the basecoat/clear coat that I applied yesterday . The liner is easy to spray and the results are terrific! I am way more than satisfied!!!:coolshade :coolshade

You want to pull the tape as soon as you are done spraying . DO NOT WAIT !!! Pull the tape toward the liner as you remove it and this will cut a very clean line on the liner material . If you pull away from the liner as you remove the tape you will pull the liner material across your tape line and end up with a fuzzy edge . Now leave it alone and let it Dry !!! Here are some pictures and I will follow with a couple of more .

Big AL:coolshade :coolshade

BigAl
03-25-2006, 09:37 PM
Here's two more pictures .

:drink: :beer: :1062: :5boobs: :moon: The "LOWER BODY IS DONE" !!!!!!!!

Melensdad
03-25-2006, 10:06 PM
I told you that stuff is great!

Your results look terriffic. The color match is excellent, did you add rubber to your mix or just stick with the epoxy blend? The rubber is great for added wear protection and traction inside a truck bed, but unnecessary for your application unless you wanted the texture it provides. I've use the epoxy spray with and without rubber with great results and I think you will still be happy with the results long after you get that put back together.

BigAl
03-25-2006, 10:19 PM
I told you that stuff is great!

Your results look terriffic. The color match is excellent, did you add rubber to your mix or just stick with the epoxy blend? .

Bob ,
I did not add rubber . I am soooooo glad I went this way . No one could do a custom color match like I wanted . In fact ,the paint salesman told me at first it could not be done . Then after we talked about a half dozen times and I told him what I was doing , he told me he would custom mix something up . I even got him watching the restoration now and they are wanting pictures for the store !!! These guys have been great and have really gone overboard on giving me needed advice . The nice part is the color goes all the way through so scapes or scatches should blend in and not show .

BigAl
03-25-2006, 10:24 PM
Here's a "before" picture ,when I was just getting started on the lower body ! A little bit of a difference .

Snowcat Operations
03-25-2006, 10:33 PM
WOW! Bob your advise was perfect. Allen Your work is PERFECT! Man that will be one nice bathtub when its done. Oh wait sorry I meant Snowcat. Nah just jokeing around. That is going to be the best looking Kristi snowcat EVER made!

BigAl
03-26-2006, 10:00 PM
Evening Folks ,:tiphat:
Well , I cleaned up the shop and had my son help me move the lower body outside . It will stay there until the frame is cleaned ,repaired , repainted and ready to be reinstalled .
I bought in the center section of the upper body . On close inspection , I realized that the balsa wood center had decayed from water leaking through some old luggage rack bolt holes in the roof area .I had originally planned to replace the center cab section with a new “Formed” one piece of Aluminum because I thought the old cab was beyond repair .
I took a 4” grinder and with a cutting disk installed ,cut out the inner fiberglass panel to inspect the damage . The wood was completely loose and rotten . I decided that I can install new plywood rebedded in fiberglass resin to restore it back to its original contour . This will be quite a savings over forming a new aluminum center . So tomorrow I will get the new plywood and glass it in place . Once this dries, I will repair the side where someone mounted a spare boogie tire and the same thing happened .
Here is a before and after shot of the rotted area .

BigAl
03-27-2006, 08:23 PM
Ok ! New plywood is cut , installed and bedded in fiberglass resin . Biggest problem was getting the curve back in the roof correctly . I used any weight I could find to make the curve . Here is a list :
1 -48" 2x4 (doug fir works best )
1- 5" vise
2- 2 1/2 gallon jugs of thinner
2 Kristi boogie wheels with tires ( inflated to 35 pounds)
2- 8" x 3/4 " grinding wheels
2 cast iron jack stands

Hey !!! You use what you got !!! No pictures , but maybe tomorrow .
Oh Man! I almost forgot . I also used 1 -10" flat tip screwdriver !!

Arlow
03-27-2006, 08:48 PM
Hey Al, I think it was you that was asking in a thread about the logos on my upholstery, but it got deleted. I think Bob was asking, too.
The upholstery guy that did the seats has some software that can digitize any drawing and convert into a format for the embroidery machine. It was cheap, only $25CDN per seat. I just showed him the Snow Trac snowflake emblem and he took it from there. So any good upholstery shop or sign/logo/decal type place would be able to do that.
Sorry for taking so long!

BigAl
03-27-2006, 08:57 PM
Hey Al, I think it was you that was asking in a thread about the logos on my upholstery, but it got deleted. I think Bob was asking, too.
The upholstery guy that did the seats has some software that can digitize any drawing and convert into a format for the embroidery machine. It was cheap, only $25CDN per seat. I just showed him the Snow Trac snowflake emblem and he took it from there. So any good upholstery shop or sign/logo/decal type place would be able to do that.
Sorry for taking so long!


Thanks Arlow ,
Good to see you visitin again . Yes that is a good price . I will see what I can do around here .
Al

BigAl
03-28-2006, 09:45 AM
Ok , I got another question for your consideration :confused: . The exterior of the center cab fiberglass section is embossed to look like a vinyl top material. There is quite a number of holes in the old section that need repair .I can see hours upon hours trying to dulicate that "fake vinyl top design" where the repairs are made . What about a real vinyl top ? That would sure make it easy and if I scatched it what would be the difference between paint or vinyl ? The new vinyl cloth material is pretty tough too. I think the Kristi manufcturers did this to break up the body lines a little . I have a vinyl top "sample" coming along with a color chart of all the colors avalible . If anyone needs a orginal vinyl top replacement you might want to inquire from these guys : www.smsautofabrics.com (http://www.smsautofabrics.com)

Melensdad
03-28-2006, 09:54 AM
Why not patch the holes and then spray it with the epoxy paint you used on the bottom side? It has its own texture, it can be put down heavy enough to create a look similar to the original look (multiple layers can be applied over the top of each other to build it up) so it would cover your repairs and cover the original texture. It would also match the lower body panel, the color is not just superficial so scratches won't show up easily. Just a thought.

BigAl
03-28-2006, 10:26 AM
Actually Bob that is a pretty damn good idea :thumb: . I may just do that . It would sure tie the lower and upper body sections together and I like the idea of the bedliner material color going all the through the liner . That way I could keep the upper body color exactly the same as the center section .Thanks !

The fake vinyl embossing is so deep that I think I would still fill it in with filler before shooting the bedliner though .
I wonder if they sell bedliner in 1/2 gallon amounts ???

Snowcat Operations
03-28-2006, 04:11 PM
What brand bed liner are you using? Is it as tuff as a sprayed in bed liner?

BigAl
03-28-2006, 04:50 PM
What brand bed liner are you using? Is it as tuff as a sprayed in bed liner?

It is a spray in type bed liner and yes ,I believe it is every bit as tuff as the stuff the bedliner shops spray :thumb: .I will go back out a little later and get the brand .
You guys thought I was kidding about the weight for the plywood replacement on the center section . Here is a picture to prove it . I also forgot to add one four valve assembly to my weight list . By the way ,the new plywood did the trick so I will be using the old center section for sure .

OkeeDon
03-28-2006, 05:24 PM
Inflating the bogie wheels to 35 pounds is what did the trick. If you had only inflated them to 25 pounds each, you'd have been 20 pounds light...:Whacky_To

Snowcat Operations
03-28-2006, 06:28 PM
Those ARE airplane tires!

Av8r3400
03-28-2006, 08:29 PM
Are the marks on the sides from wear?

I've never see light plane tires with side tread like that. (I've been wrong before though.)

BigAl
03-28-2006, 09:53 PM
Well they could be airplane tires as the wheel rims are airplane wheels . The owner of Kristi was a pilot so who knows ???:confused: The "dished in" marks on the sides are actually part of the side wall design .
While the center cab section fiberglass repaired area was curing in my shop ,I hauled the frame out to my buddy's welding shop . We ground out bad welds ,welded where there were no welds , added bracing and supports where they should have been but were not , rounded and radius sharp corners and filled drilled holes that had nothing mounted to it . The frame is a "ladder type frame" basically made of 1"x1" 1/8" square tubing.
Light weight but strong .
I also revamped the rear hitch set up where it had cracked in half and added cross bracing . Who ever the "knucklehead" was that did the welding on that hitch should have taken a basic course in Welding 101 or had his butt kicked . Talk about a mess!:pat:
So the frame is back home tonight and will get cleaned ,sanded ,primed and painted tomorrow . I'll try to grab a picture of the frame after it is painted .

BigAl
03-29-2006, 12:19 AM
What brand bed liner are you using?

Mike ,
The bedliner material is made by a company called SEMS . It is the "Pro Tex" line .
It is also "tintable" to any color you want . The paint salemens may say it isnt ,but it can be done . I paid $250 for the liner material plus the custom tint color that varies in price depending on what color you want .
Al

Snowcat Operations
03-29-2006, 12:48 PM
Thanks BigAl. When you get a chance I would love to see some pictures of the frame. 1x1x1/8. Glad to hear you added extra reinforcment points. I can tell this Kristi will be the best Kristi to ever hit the snow. How many man hours do you have in it so far?

Melensdad
03-29-2006, 04:32 PM
Ok I'm back. Lord I do love good drugs !!! I can't feel anything now !!!!Nothing broken but I will be moving pretty slow for awhile. I did a "triple Axel with a half pike twist combo" . I got scored pretty high by the judges ,but did not win anything . Going to head off to bed . The pretty little birds keep circling around the monitor but before I go I need to show you the latest progress with my paiting.

Damn, I can't get the photo to load. Guess I need to get some help form Bob again:pat:


Allen, no problem, you know I am always glad to help you :whistle:

Here is the photo you wanted loaded up. I do like the way you did stripes on the back of that thing.

BigAl
03-29-2006, 07:41 PM
Hi All:tiphat: ,
The frame got a good sanding and cleaning again this morning. I then shot a couple of coats of epoxy primer/sealer on it followed up by 3 coats of gloss black . The pictures show before,during and after . The last picture shows black paint still hanging in the air . Makes real nice black boogers . With the nose hair stuck in them ,they look like little spiders with legs:D ! Man ! I have got to find my mask !!!

Mike ,the frame is very strong and it is amazing it held up as well as it did with the past owner grooming trails with it .

The only areas that had frame breaks were where the knuckleheads had attempted to weld up a frame hitch setup and made "very cold" welds . I cut about 10 pounds of crap metal off it yesterday and rebraced the whole thing right .

BigAl
03-29-2006, 07:44 PM
Allen, no problem, you know I am always glad to help you :whistle:

Here is the photo you wanted loaded up. I do like the way you did stripes on the back of that thing.

Hey Bob,
Why don't you ship that Snow Trac of yours to me and i'll put a custom paint job on it for you . A real "one of a kind" !!!:thumb:

Spiffy1
03-29-2006, 07:45 PM
Looking great! Someday perhaps I'll have your talent.....come to think of it, I'd settle for any talent!:pat:

Seriously though, keep up the great work and keep the pictures coming!:coolshade

Snowcat Operations
03-29-2006, 09:50 PM
Yes now I understand why it is so strong. I was picturing just a flat ladder type frame. The sides and roll cage really beef it up. Nice job Al

wilkinsn1
03-29-2006, 10:53 PM
Al, At the rate you're going, you might have that Kristi up and running before the snow completely melts this season.....
Good job....

Gary

BigAl
03-29-2006, 11:49 PM
How many man hours do you have in it so far?

Mike,
I have about 30 days into this project . I would guess I work a average of 4- 5 hours a day max. So I think somewhere in the neighborhood of 120 to 150 hours . But I have to tell you , a lot of that is sitting on my ass and trying to invision how I want something to turn out .I would say I easily spend 1 to 2 hours a day just thinking how to do what I want .:smileywac

Melensdad
03-30-2006, 09:24 AM
Hey Bob,
Why don't you ship that Snow Trac of yours to me and i'll put a custom paint job on it for you . A real "one of a kind" !!!:thumb:

Allen, given the level of quality I see going into your restoration I would actually trust you to paint my Snow Trac. I was talking to the lovely Mrs_B yesterday and she suggested a blue background with snowflakes and a large image of "Bumble" the abominable snowman from the TV special "Rudolf and and the Land of Misfit Toys"

Can you airbrush some images of Bumble on the hood and each side? Or should I just go to a local graphics shop and have them do a "full wrap" of the Snow Trac? Or do I need to get some psychiatric help for the Mrs?

BigAl
03-30-2006, 10:17 AM
Allen, given the level of quality I see going into your restoration I would actually trust you to paint my Snow Trac. I was talking to the lovely Mrs_B yesterday and she suggested a blue background with snowflakes and a large image of "Bumble" the abominable snowman from the TV special "Rudolf and and the Land of Misfit Toys"

Can you airbrush some images of Bumble on the hood and each side? Or should I just go to a local graphics shop and have them do a "full wrap" of the Snow Trac? Or do I need to get some psychiatric help for the Mrs?

Yes ,we can shoot the blue. I would suggest you make a snowflake template and airbrush the outside "snow flake" edge very lightly in "soft white"and then let the center fade back to blue . Keep the top the same color "soft white" to give the appearance that snow is stacking up .

We could put a small "Bumble" under each window on the body and add the person's name under it ,who would usually sit at that location . Mrs B . of course, would have a dress on her Bumble image .Little Bumble images for the kids . A larger bumble would be on the hood with a snow cave in the background .

Bet I got you thinking now !!!:tiphat:

Lets see???? 2 men , 1 week , 4 cases of beer, Jar of beef jerky, a bunch of cut out snowflakes ,........ yep it can be done !!!!:beer:

BigAl
03-30-2006, 10:22 AM
Serious Bob ,
Some of the talent at local high schools is incredible . Call up a high school Art Teacher . They always have one student that is really gifted . I bet you could find one that could airbrush your Bumbles easily .I bet they would love to do it . The snowflakes are a no brainer even for me .

bczoom
03-30-2006, 10:26 AM
2 men , 1 week , 4 cases of beer, Jar of beef jerky
Mr. President,

The quantities don't appear correct. What will we be eating/drinking after day 2? :(

BigAl
03-30-2006, 10:43 AM
Mr. President,

The quantities don't appear correct. What will we be eating/drinking after day 2? :(

ah ... Member "Big Boom" ....Thats "Grand Pooba" in the KKK lodge chamber , . I do not ever want to be confused with that "guy" in the "white house" Now there is a real "Bumble" . Outside the lodge room it is ok to call me by my regular name "Sh#thead" .

After closely doing a retally of the needed supplies ,I do see my mistake and your concern is warranted .
Bob!!!... we need 2 jars of Beef Jerky !

Melensdad
03-30-2006, 10:49 AM
Bob!!!... we need 2 jars of Beef Jerky !

Per day?

Hickory? Sweet Hawaiian? Terryaki? BBQ?

BigAl
03-30-2006, 10:53 AM
Per day?

Hickory? Sweet Hawaiian? Terryaki? BBQ?

Beer comes in those flavors???? Cool !

Snowcat Operations
03-30-2006, 12:14 PM
Greetings to the almighty and highly talented "Grand Pooba". May God shower many blessing on to you and your lovely wife. Oh Grand Pooba what beer does thou require for such talent to be spewed upon my Snow Master?

In other words what kind of beer do you want?

BigAl
03-30-2006, 12:40 PM
Greetings to the almighty and highly talented "Grand Pooba". May God shower many blessing on to you and your lovely wife. Oh Grand Pooba what beer does thou require for such talent to be spewed upon my Snow Master?

In other words what kind of beer do you want?

Are you saying I may get lucky tonight with the little lady ??? cool
:showerSex

As far as beer , Yes , that will do nicely . Oh! you meant what kind ??? Yes, that will do nicely !!!:tiphat:

Snowcat Operations
03-30-2006, 01:26 PM
Wait isnt that a picture of BigAl? That is BigAl! I didnt know you were a movie star Al.

BigAl
03-30-2006, 07:46 PM
Nope ! That ain't me . My hair is blond and gray not white . Pretty close face resemblance though .His teeth are straighter than mine .

I took another picture of the frame "Hitch Setup" with the frame sitting outside . A little clearer now without all the black paint floating around the shop .

I also finished laying the last coat of fiberglassing on the interior side of the center cab section . Tomorrow I will start the finish sanding and filling the exterior side .

:tiphat:

bczoom
03-30-2006, 08:04 PM
My hair is blond and gray not white
Ahhh, another reason the Grand Pooba and I get along so well. We look alike.

Hey GP, sorry I couldn't come over this week. I just e-mailed you a new keg to hold you over until my next visit.

BigAl
04-01-2006, 11:06 AM
Yes , you are a good lad !

Ok ,I ordered and received the wrong body filler today, so it looks like I am off to Auburn (26 miles) to get the right stuff . Also my engine sound deadener /heat insulation is lost in shipment ,so if anybodys sees a 4x48 roll of the stuff , I want it back ! About 10 days to get a new roll !

Wife told me last night to "kick it in gear" and get this thing done so I will spend less time here and more in the shop .She is a lovable Mean ole bat.

BigAl
04-02-2006, 10:58 AM
It was a long day and my back is feeling the result of it ! I spent the entire day working over the center section cab .the interior is finished and painted ,New engine vent holes have been recut in the one side and two coats of filler have been applied to the exterior and then sanded down trying to eliminate the fake "vinyl top" look . Today should see more filling and 2 coats of epoxy sealer/primer. At that point ,I am hoping to be getting close to a smooth exterior finish . I will make the decision today , if I will use a spray on bedliner material,vinyl top material or try to make it prefectly smooth on the exterior .

I am using "Kitty Hair" short strand fiberglass body filler by Evercoat to attempt to smooth the exterior. I then rough sand with 80 grit sandpaper so the filler is only left in the indentations . It runs about $18 a quart ,but it is tougher than straight "Bondo" because of the fiberglass hairs that are mixed with it .
Should have pictures tonight .

BigAl
04-02-2006, 07:57 PM
Evening All :tiphat: ,
Ok , the center section is sitting in the shop , epoxy primed and sealed . There is no comparison to what it was before :thumb: . The top had a 1 ½" dip in the center from the balsa wood core delaminating and one side was completely shot .It took a while ,but I now believe it was worth it . There is still a little clean up to do before deciding what kind of finish I want to apply to the exterior . My 3 choices are:

1. “Spray On ” Bed Liner same as the lower section bottom is shot in.

2. A actual Vinyl top material to simulate the original design in a matching color .

3. A “Smooth finish” same as front and rear upper cab pieces .

I am leaning away from the “smooth finish” #3 option as the old side of the center section that was undamaged ,has some cosmetic waves in the original fiberglass finish and I think it would distract from the overall appearance .You can’t see them but I can feel them .I do not want to build up the low wavy areas with a bunch of bondo !!!:puke1: I also do not want to shoot $137 a quart paint on it and then find it looks like crap :mad: ! High Gloss paint will only compound the issue and make it more noticeable . Comments are welcome and appreciated .

So where to now??? I’m waiting on “engine sound deadener insulation” before installing the frame and it is to wet with too much humidity to spray finish paint .

Guess I will drag in the track rails tomorrow and see what I can accomplish .
Here are 3 pictures a "before" and two "afters" .

Later Dudes and Dudetts!!!:wave:

mtntopper
04-02-2006, 08:26 PM
I also do not want to shoot $137 a quart paint on it and then find it looks like crap :mad: ! High Gloss paint will only compound the issue and make it more noticeable .

Stay away from the high gloss if any imperfections are even close to noticeable. Been there and done that, never again.....

bczoom
04-03-2006, 12:29 AM
My Grand Pooba,

May I suggest you consider your wording more carefully? Below are some recent statements you've made. Are we still talking about your snow machine?:confused:

Big Boom.

It was a long day and my back is feeling the result of it !

Ok , the center section is sitting in the shop

There is no comparison to what it was before

There is still a little clean up to do before deciding what kind of finish I want

At that point ,I am hoping to be getting close to a smooth exterior finish . I will make the decision today.

I also do not want to shoot $137 a quart

I am using "Kitty Hair"

Should have pictures tonight .

BigAl
04-03-2006, 12:39 AM
OK !

I'm going to help you out a little bit . Please call Bob S. Then, both of you head to the local McDonalds and apply for jobs . Both of you have way to much time on your hands and need something to do . Use my name as a reference . McDonalds like Old People ,so you both may have a chance .
Now practice saying this " Welcome to McDonalds . May I take your order please?
Good Luck .
HEY what is going on I just realized that post #189 is showing todays time ???? I posted this yesterday

BOB S. Is messin with me again

Snowcat Operations
04-03-2006, 03:09 AM
Nice work. What color will you be painting it?

BigAl
04-03-2006, 09:28 AM
Nice work. What color will you be painting it?

Good Morning Mike :tiphat: ,

If I end up "painting" or using the "Spray on Bed Liner" it will be in 2006 T-5 Copper color which is the same as my Ford Truck . If I go with a actual "vinyl top" I am not sure if I will try to match the T-5 copper or go with the Metalic beige lower color to give it some contrast.
Right now I am leaning towards the spray on bed liner idea the Bogus Bob suggested . I knew I kept him around for some reason ...

Melensdad
04-03-2006, 01:26 PM
I am leaning towards the spray on bed liner idea the Bogus Bob suggested . I knew I kept him around for some reason ...

Hey, I am not as stupid as I look, er um I mean as you look! :pat:

Even if it was my suggestion, I still think it is a good one. I'd vote for the epoxy bedliner in a matching color. If you want more contrast, then I'd go with the epoxy bedliner in a contrasting color. My concern for a vinyl top covering is that eventually it will be in contact with a branch and once that material snags, tears, or just gets a nice scuff in it, you have to replace the whole thing to do a good repair.

With the epoxy bedliner you just have to mix up a pint or so of your original mix and apply it over the area to get an exact duplication. (remember to write down the air pressure settings on your compressor because different pressures will yield different textures).

BigAl
04-03-2006, 10:38 PM
Yea Bob ,
Looks like I will go with the bed liner finish . It just makes sense.

I brought in the right track assembly and got started on it . I removed all the boogie wheel hubs ,races ,bearings and wheel seals . What a mess!:mad:
There are two boogie wheels attached to each walking beam which is attached to the main frame track rail by a stub axle . These are held in place by 1" nuts . One of those nuts was frozen on and 3 hours later I finally got it to release . One Zert fitting was sheared off and has been ,since it left the factory in 1972 . Absolutely no grease in the bushing . The wrong type of grease was used on the other zerts . When one plays in wet conditions ,one should use a Boat axle grease .:pat:
About half the bearings and races are shot ,but I am replacing all of them .

So... I had planned on having both sides of the track rails torn down and ready for reassembly ,but it looks like a few days before that will happen .:(

I think the Bearings and Races are the same on a KT7 as on a KT3 . I am sure Caroth can correct me if I am in error . So here are the Parts numbers :


KRIST KT7

Wheel bearing information
Inter Race =========== Timke # 15250
Inter Bearing==========Timke # 15118
Outer Race===========Timke # 09194
Outer Bearing========= Timke # 0907
Grease seal for hub====National # 6283

BigAl
04-04-2006, 10:25 PM
Evening Folks:tiphat: ,
I spent the better part of the day cleaning parts and painting various pieces of track parts . Everything is cleaned and painted and ready for reassembly .
When cleaning one of the walking beams I discovered where the manufacture had missed a 3” weld . He welded along the side of the crack ! :pat:
Tomorrow , I reassemble the track assembly with all new bearings and seals.
By the way , If anyone plans to replace all the bearing and seals on a Kristi KT3 ,KT4, or a KT7, plan on spending $450 just in bearings and seals :( . Here are 3 pictures at various stages of cleaning and paint .

BigAl
04-05-2006, 06:39 PM
Sorry about the last posted pictures not coming through completely . Blame it on Bob S.:D

Ok ,the left side track rail is complete and ready to go back on the Kristi .

I did discover that a Napa Grease seal will not work on the hubs and you have to use a original style "National" grease seal .

I also drilled and tapped a 1/8" x 28 thread hole in the back side of each bogie wheel hub center and inserted a Zert gease fitting . No more having to disassemble hubs to repack bearings . I do not like using the "Bearing Buddy's" style hub cover cap as only the outer bearing really ever gets greased . This way grease goes to both bearing and leaves no air pockets for water build up .

Tomorrow I attack the other side !:14_6_12:

Here are a couple of pictures .

Snowcat Operations
04-05-2006, 09:43 PM
Your shoe is coming untied! :yum: OK its an inside joke.

Snowcat Operations
04-05-2006, 09:46 PM
Very nice work BigAl. That Snowcat will last twice as long as it did before! Say 60 years?

wilkinsn1
04-05-2006, 10:41 PM
Al, got to compliment you......great work. Wish you were available when we overhauled our Kristi KT3 back in 2000. Would have hired you then......especially at $0.37/hr :yum: Just kidding.......great job on your project. :a1:

Gary

BigAl
04-06-2006, 09:18 PM
Hey all ,
I started the rebuild of the other track and found a new part number for the walking beam "carrier bearing ". It is a "Fafnir" bearing Part # 01107K and is made in the USA , Hopefully this is a good number and still in stock . Pretty sure it will fit KT3's too!
Engine sound/heat insulation is lost AGAIN and now they are sending it Special Delivery !
More tommorow !!!:tiphat:

Snowcat Operations
04-07-2006, 02:28 PM
What is up with those people? How hard is it to ship you the product you ordered?

BigAl
04-08-2006, 12:25 AM
[quote=BigAl]Hey all ,
I started the rebuild of the other track and found a new part number for the walking beam "carrier bearing ". It is a "Fafnir" bearing Part # 01107K and is made in the USA , Hopefully this is a good number and still in stock . Pretty sure it will fit KT3's too!
quote]

You will also need a Fafnir "set screw" collar for the Fafnir bearing part #C270 .

BigAl
04-08-2006, 12:40 AM
Mike ,
Yep! There are 3 - 4'x48' rolls of heat/sound insulation out there somewhere . This last roll will be sent special delivery . I have gone just about as far as I can without it now . After that I need to reinstall the frame and that just ain't going to happen until I have the insulation installed first . That will make it a much tighter and cleaner looking installation .

The other track is completely rebuilt and tomorrow I am rebuilding the Clam Shell gear drives . When I opened up the Clam Shells the roller chain wear bushings were laying in the bottom of the case ! That is not good !

I also have a drawing for the protective sheetmetal shields that goes around the shafts where they exit the interior of the body . These are the same on all Models and I will post a picture tomorrow , as a lot of Models have lost them .

Snowcat Operations
04-08-2006, 12:58 AM
Both of my shields seem to be in place. The more I look at the Kristi the more I think they could be made into an amphibious vehile pretty easily. Either that or into a submarine. Anyway keep the pictures coming BigAl!

Mith
04-08-2006, 05:45 AM
Snowcat, I think they become submarines if they dont work as aphibious vehicles. SPLASH! :eek: :yum:

BigAl
04-08-2006, 10:58 PM
Evening Gents & Lady's :tiphat: ,

Today found me rebuilding the Clam Shell Gear drives that the sprocket connects to . The #50 roller chain was replaced with new . I found parts of an exploded roller chain in the bottom of the gear case . I finally realized that the cause was two chain gears that were not aligned causing the roller chain to rotate in binding action . Those two gears were a 1/8 " out of alignment at about 6'' center to center on the gears . That is way too much for such a short distance .

Later ,I was able to smack my thumb with a big old greasy Ball ping Hammer . So I been sucking on a Greasy thumb ever since . Why is that ???:confused: It just feels better sucking on it ..... Hmmmmm. I wonder if that has some hidden meaning .......

Tomorrow , I will be finishing up the second Clam Shell and be just about as far as I can go until I reinstall the frame . I do have a little work on the right angle gear drive unit where some idiot has welded the u joints in place .:pat:

Here are a 4 pictures of the clam shell .

BigAl
04-08-2006, 11:01 PM
Last two pictures

BigAl
04-09-2006, 10:24 PM
Finished the 2nd Clam shell today . It took much longer than the first one . Someone had been inside this clam shell and forgot to tighten up the 3/8 fine thread retaining bolt that holds the sprocket shaft to the gear to keep it from being able to travel back and forth about ¾” .They also forgot to reinstall a 2 ½” snap ring ! If they had ever made a really hard turn and the “pressed in” bearing had let go , the whole shaft with sprocket and all would have come off !

Some people should not work on equipment !!!

To access the 3/8 retaining bolt for the sprocket shaft you will find a 3” diameter inspection cover on the back side of the clam shell . This is for tightening the bolt .

Anyway ,it took me a couple hours to repair and tap out the shaft so it could accept a new bolt .The old bolt had no threads left on the end because it was just spinning around and getting hit by the shaft as it slid back and forth .

I also made new shields for the out drives as they exit the snow cat . Use a piece of 20ga sheet metal . Make a 6” outside circle and a 3 ¼” inside circle . Now bend the two end up about ½ “ back from the cut . Clamp it with a pair of Vise Grips and drill a ¼ hole for the bolt and nut that tightens it to the shaft . Glue and line the inside with a piece of flat rubber of the same size so it will not scratch the body . Here is a picture of the shield and the tools needed .

Hey !!! I just realize it is Miller time !!! Tomorrow the gear drives !

Snowcat Operations
04-09-2006, 10:44 PM
Have you test fitted them yet? It looks perfect.

Ricochet
04-09-2006, 10:48 PM
Nice custom work there! :thumb:

BigAl
04-09-2006, 10:58 PM
Have you test fitted them yet? It looks perfect.

Oh yea ! Fits like a glove .The old one in the picture is flattened out so I could copy the diameter correctly .:thumb: :a1:

BigAl
04-10-2006, 08:58 PM
Help !!!!
Ok , now I got a real problem . I started trying to remove the one u joint on the back of the Right Angle gear drive boxes . No Luck ! It is welded on “big time” because some idiot did not have 2 -3/8” allen head set screws to secure the u joint to the shaft so he just welded the hell out it . I got one off but the other is not moving !!!
I ended up cutting a square hole in the back of the Housing that holds the gears boxes so I could get the right angle gear unit out . The gear box does not have any name on it , just some numbers . Does anyone recognize this brand of gear box??? The number is WA67 01B/ . I am beginning to think I may end up cutting off the u joint and splined shaft so I can get a new gear shaft and reinstall it right with a new u joint knuckle if I can find out what brand it is .
Also look at the next set of pictures . This is a cable operated emergency brake caliper . It has K -H engraved in it with the number 400M and also #1039 . I assume it is a Kelsy Hayes brake caliper ,but I can find no parts . The Brake pad is about the size of 4- 50 cent pieces stacked on top of each other .
There is suppose to be one on each gear box but someone has removed one in the past, so I would only have a emergency brake on one track and I would like to set up two again .
Can anybody help !!!!

BigAl
04-10-2006, 09:01 PM
Here are the brake caliper pictures

BigAl
04-10-2006, 10:07 PM
OK! I found the brake calipers !!!!!! Now all I need is the name of that gear box

Snowcat Operations
04-11-2006, 11:28 AM
What was the application for those brake calipers? The original application? How did you find them with no part numbers?

BigAl
04-11-2006, 05:02 PM
I learned something today:thumb: . I cut two lines lengthwise with the splined shaft on the ujoint using a disc grinder . I did not cut all the way to the spline gear shaft itself but stopped short . I got a V shaped cold chisle and inserted it in the cut . Rapped it with a small ball ping hammer and the two halfs of the ujoint popped right off . The u joints from Spicer are cast iron !!! The spline shaft is fine other than at the front areas they attempted to weld. That will not affect the perfomace .The inside of the ujoint was spun out and no splines were left in it . So I am off to get two new spicer ujoints ,bearings, seals and I am back in business !!!

Sorry Big Boom , I'm keeping it now :thumb:

Snowcat Operations
04-11-2006, 05:47 PM
Excellent! I am glad to hear that nightmare is over with.

bczoom
04-11-2006, 09:03 PM
Sorry Big Boom , I'm keeping it now :thumb:
Damn... I was (in one way) hoping you found a show stopper.:o

I'll send more beer money to compensate for my lack of judgement.:pat:

BigAl
04-11-2006, 09:41 PM
Today started as one of those days that you dread getting out of bed . I was still wanting to kill or maimed whoever had welded on my right angle gear drive shaft and I was expecting the day to get worst as the hours went by.

I called the brake caliper manufacturing company and the lady directed me to a retailer that sold their products and gave me the new part number . $76 bucks later the missing brake caliper is on the way ! Hey not bad ,I think to myself!!!:thumb:

I start calling machine shops to see who may be able to fix my welded gear shaft .The guy at a local machine shop says bring it down and he will take a look at it . I get there and the guy is busy but his helper tells me I should go see the “old boys” up at the local Logging company because they might know the name of the gear company that made this right angle gear and save me big bucks . I go to the logging company and the parts door is locked so I go around the side and run into a old guy ( about 60) who says he is not the parts guy but maybe he might know who makes it . He takes a look in the back of the truck says it is a “Wabco” or a “Rexroth” and has not seen one in years but he is sure they can fix it ! Things are looking up ! We go in the parts dept and another guy who is about 80 and looks like the Dad ,goes and looks and says it is some other brand and he thinks they can fix it too :5boobs: . Then they spend 15 minutes arguing and discussing the doohickey that is attached to the thingamabob so it must be a “whatucallit” brand :rolleyes: . Ok!! These guys know there stuff ,I think ! Then the old guy (the older old guy) tells me to cut off the yoke and the shaft will be fine . Says he sees this all the time and he bets the u joint yoke has spun on the shaft , so get it off , clean up the splines and go buy a new yoke ! Sounds Good, I think , but I still don‘t think it will be that easy !:rolleyes:

I then head to my friends welding shop and borrow this little neat power tool that has a little cutting disc in it and make two cuts lengthwise on the yoke . He comes over and cuts off the ears of the yoke with a plasma cutter . Man those things are neat :thumb: !!! Anyway ,I finish making my cuts , grab a sharp cold chisel , put it in the cut and rap it with a hammer . The damn yoke just splits right in half !!!! I can’t believe it was that easy !:dancing: I clean up the splines and go to the parts house and they order me new yokes and joints . $19 bucks a yoke!!! Oh YEA !!! Great day .

I make a mental note to go back and kiss the 2 old logging guys right on the lips later and “in private” as old logging guys are kinda funny about showing affection in public :love: .

Come home and am feeling all warm inside . Decide to look over the engine closely . I then realize that someone at one time has had the heads off . HOLY Cow !!! The heads have been rebuilt sometime in the past !!! The rebuild sticker is still there !! YES<YES <YES , I do a little dance !:coolshade

Life is good !!! Looks like the engine block may have been done also.

I sit happily at my work bench and rebuild one gear drive with new seals and bearings that last night I thought was toast !!!:5boobs:

Picture of rebuilt gear enclosed .

Have a nice day ! I am !!!:beer:

Snowcat Operations
04-12-2006, 12:07 AM
You are the luckiest man in the world! :applause::beer:

mtntopper
04-12-2006, 12:22 AM
Heres to your good luck and excellent perseverance to do a great job.......
5119

BigAl
04-12-2006, 08:58 PM
Today saw the 2nd gear unit get rebuilt . They are both ready for installation now .

Fed Ex finally showed up today with my sound /heat insulation so now is the time to bring in the lower body and frame ,back in the shop to start checking fit and setting up the new insulation /sound deadener.

Snowcat Operations got me motivated and I rebuilt the single barrel Bendix /Zenith carb . I went ahead and polished out the throat ,all butterflies and ported the mating manifold to reduce fiction or drag on the air/fuel mixture as it is pulled into the intake manifold . Hey !!! It is a single barrel and I need all the power I can get so that’s why I did it !!!

Tomorrow ,I have about two hours of clean up and checking bushing & bearings on the rear lift ram mechanism and that’s it . At that point I start putting it all together . It will be nice ,as I am just about out of room in my shop now . The motor and hydro trans drives will be cleaned up and checked when I get some of these parts reinstalled . I have no room left to do a motor tear down if it becomes necessary .

Here are a couple of pictures .

Snowcat Operations
04-13-2006, 01:50 AM
WOW aint she pretty! That carb is about as shiney as my gold capped front teeth! OK so I dont have gold capped front teeth but if I DID then they would be that shiney! Nice job. My rebuild kit has not arrived yet and I too am starting to get worried that it got lost in the whole delivery system! I was told Wednesday for sure. My carb is still on my CLEAN work area. I am also glad to hear you finally recieved your Sound insulation! About damn time!

BigAl
04-13-2006, 10:47 PM
Cleaned up the tools and put them all away . Swept Out the shop and got everything ready to bring in the lower body and frame tomorrow . Cleaned ,inspected and painted the last few remaining pieces of the hydraulic lift system .

Also picked up my new "Adult First Aid Kit" for the KT7 . I can do anything including minor surgery after getting this baby set up :thumb: . It can hold up to 3 bottles of assorted medicine . I am thinking Dr. Pepper , Rum and Brandy .

Hey Bob ,Eat your heart out .:moon: :moon: :moon:

Snowcat Operations
04-13-2006, 11:07 PM
Now thats my kinda First Aid Kit.. That and Kristi Cline (you remeber her) serving up a nice cocktail at the end of a hard run. Handing it to you as she sits on you lap. and------ Oh crap sorry got side tracked. Nice first aid kit!

mtntopper
04-14-2006, 12:12 AM
I never actually drink and drive or might end up in a Snot Trac Or Krispi Criter snew scat. :1062: :yum: :yum:

BigAl
04-14-2006, 12:14 AM
I don't either ,. This is for after the keys are taken out and the day is done .
I am a firm believer that drinking and equipment should never go together . Never !

BigAl
04-14-2006, 10:56 PM
The body is sitting in the shop and the frame has been test fitted to the body so the sound/heat insulation can be laid out and glued in now . That will happen tomorrow .

It was a pretty good day . I spent a lot of time talking with Ford Power Products about the 104 cu. in . motor . I am very impressed . I wonder why Ford quit making the 104 V-4 ??? It is damn near bullet proof . Ran a compression check on the pistons today . Are you ready for this ???:thumb:

#1 piston = 155 pounds
#2 piston = 155 pounds
#3 piston = 158 pounds
#4 piston = 160 pounds
Leak down test was also A Plus:a1:

The motor has been rebuilt sometime in the past , so it is just a matter of cleaning it up and checking starter , alternator, Dist, Etc .

Sorry guys , no pictures tonight .

Snowcat Operations
04-14-2006, 11:52 PM
Those are some pretty nice compression numbers! You see those on factory new motors! Seems we have both been lucky in the engine dept! :thumb:

mtntopper
04-15-2006, 12:01 AM
That engine is really well designed and almost bullet proof. Might be better off to not rebuild unless it really needs attention. Do you know how many hours are on the engine? One of the major problems I have seen with this motor are old gasket and seal problems. If everything else checks out good, I would consider just a reseal of the complete engine instead of acomplete rebulid. You may still want to do the valve and head work.

Glad the compression is good, you can save some bucks and still be comfortable that it is up to your standards.:thumb: You may want to drop the oil pan and check some of the main and rod bearings with plastigauge to just assure yourself that everything is ok in the bottom end of the engine. You probably will still need to do the reseal and gasket of the engine as I mentioned in my prior quote above as this engine seems prone to various fluid leaks.:confused:

BigAl
04-15-2006, 09:22 AM
Thanks Mtntopper ,

At first ,I thought this motor had the hell ran out of it and was pretty sure I was looking at a complete rebuild . Now I realize that from where the Hydraulic tank sat and the difficulty in getting to the oil filter because of such a tight fit on the engine ,all that grime and grease was caused by other issues . The engine breather tube just dumps on the floor . I am adding boat "through hull" fittings to eliminate this problem . Hydraulic tank drain ,Radiator overflow and drain, Engine breather tube will all exit outside the vehicle and terminate underneath .

I also went down and talked with the owner of the local rental equipment yard yesterday about these motors . These V-4 Fords use to be in a lot of early 1970's type of equiptment . He gave me quite a bit of information on them and also told me about how reliable they are .

I have the rebuild parts all nailed down and recorded in my owners manual that I am making on the computer .If I ever had to do a engine rebuild , the cost is crazy ! I honestly think I would upgrade to a V-6 159 cu in Ford before I would spend the money to rebuild the 104 V-4 .Just a "Master Gasket set" is $177 plus tax !!! Ford must be real proud of their parts . If that motor ever has to come out in the future it will be a much easier job next time as I am setting up everything with quick disconnects on the wiring ,body panels,hydraulic fittings and gas lines .

The brake caliper people called back and told me the emergency brake calipers I ordered ,are 6 weeks out . That will slow things down a bit . I need them to correctly aline the new rotors on the drive line yokes before installing the Engine/transmission . I am going to see if I can go a different way . I may end up building my own 8 "rotors so I can slide them in place and weld them later when I get the new calipers .

BigAl
04-15-2006, 08:05 PM
Spent majority of the day cleaning parts , tapping and chasing threads .:smileywac

The insulation has been installed where it needed to be , before the frame was reinstalled . This now makes the insulation one solid piece instead of a bunch of small pieces . Any seams were sealed with aluminum foil faced tape to add additional insulation value and give a better finished appearance :a1: . The insulation is about ½” in thickness and came in a 4’x48’ roll . It is foil faced so it can be wiped down should it become dirty in time and usage .

Snowcat Operations
04-15-2006, 09:58 PM
Very CLEAN work! A true sign of a professional. BigAl is that foils face sound insulation have an adhesive backing? Also when did you paint the roll bar? Looks very nice.

BigAl
04-15-2006, 10:24 PM
Thanks Mike . I ordered a "high temp" spray glue to use with it . A lot of "spray on glues" release their grip as they become warm, rendering them useless in this application .That would not be good in a engine compartment !:eek:

I painted the Roll Bar the other day after the black paint had finally gassed out :fart2: . I still plan to give it one more coat of gold paint . It should go well with the Tan and Walnut interior .

villi
04-16-2006, 08:12 AM
Humm .I have never seen a bath tub with roll bar !!!! Nice work !

Melensdad
04-16-2006, 08:21 AM
Humm .I have never seen a bath tub with roll bar !!!! Nice work !

:a1: :yum::yum::yum:

BigAl
04-17-2006, 10:34 PM
Well... the body is all bolted in . I think I once said there were 6 body bolts but there are 8 . That old body is tight now . What a difference some new rubber body mount bushings makes . Tomorrow I will start putting in the Hydraulic lift rams and then I can reattach the track rails .

I also stopped by the auto parts house because I had a hunch about my motor . The previous owner had told me the motor seemed to run rough and he thought it might need a carb rebuild . That was not the problem . The problem was at one time someone had replaced the spark plugs with the wrong style and the plugs were too short to even extend into the piston chamber . I had noticed that the plugs seemed fouled when I removed them so they were misfiring . The new correct plugs are at least a 1/2" longer . I suspect that the same idiot that welded my gear drives also changed the plugs . Who wants to go to Colorado and whup some ass with me ??? No pictures tonight but maybe tomorrow .

Snowcat Operations
04-18-2006, 04:42 AM
How the hell did they put in the wrong plugs? Oh well if it would have run good he never would have sold it.

BigAl
04-18-2006, 08:16 AM
Last name and address please.....:mad:

Ricochet
04-18-2006, 08:23 AM
Last name and address please.....:mad:

:eek: :batterUp: LOL

BigAl
04-19-2006, 08:47 PM
G’day Mates ,:tiphat:

Today , I got started on the Hydraulic ram lift system and the front and rear drive mechanism .

All hydraulic rams are repacked and installed as is the rear drive mechanism . It took quite a while as I have added rubber bushings where there were none before . I have the front “right angle gear drive motors installed in the case and the whole unit setting in place .

I should finish up that tomorrow and then install the track rails . The rubber mounts should help quiet everything down immensely . I can’t believe the whole running gear never had any:mad: ,but I am not surprised .

Got to go look for my butt ,as it was draggin when I headed for the house . I think it’s at the door and wants in …..

Here’s a couple pictures to hold you over until I get the front gear drive installed .

BigAl
04-19-2006, 10:58 PM
How the hell did they put in the wrong plugs? Oh well if it would have run good he never would have sold it.

I think Mike, it is because I found some old spark plugs laying under the motor and they were also the same part number as the wrong ones in the engine . They probably never checked and just grabbed the same ones again .

I really don't know who to be more mad at . The guy (Sid?) that half assed a lot of stuff or the "Kristi People" who did a terrible job in the original building of the machine . I guess it does'nt really matter as I am correcting everything as I go anyway . I can guarantee you one thing ,the manual I am making will be changing a lot of the Kristi misinformation that I have found .

As I said in a earlier post , the KT7 is a amazing machine but as some areas are "state of the art" in design other areas leave a lot to be desired :pat: . These areas are being changed as I rebuild it .

BigAl
04-19-2006, 11:52 PM
Chris , I was just kiddin around about whuppin anyone . I am mostly talk. I sure don't understand why anyone would weld up a u joint yoke like that though . I guess we all do what we have to do at times . In my younger days , I did some pretty stupid things too. I guess now that I am as old as dirt , I just like to do things right the first time .

Snowcat Operations
04-20-2006, 03:08 AM
Its going together quite well! Did you repaint the old rams or just buy new ones?

BigAl
04-20-2006, 11:19 AM
Its going together quit well! Did you repaint the old rams or just buy new ones?

Good Morning Mike ,

Nope ,I just repacked the existing ones and cleaned them up . Finished up by throwing a new coat of Red paint on them . These were made by "Energy Engineering" back east and I doubt if they are even still in business .These rams are a 2"x8"x 2500PSI ram . Pretty standard in the business . I don't know but maybe all Kristi Model had this brand .

Snowcat Operations
04-20-2006, 11:47 AM
They look pretty close if not the same as is on my KT3